Have you check the earth wire pn# 1115 440 2202?.. and disabled the kill switch?
SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!
- Thread starter foggysail
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Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
The small earth strap between the two halves of the saw I did away with, as it seems unnecessary one the stop switch is disabled. I assume this is the wire your talking about?
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There are numerous components in the ignition circuit, any can fail although from reports to date, the primary failure component is the capacitor.
Read post #49. I sheared the flywheel key back then so carefully check the key. My flywheel was so loose that pulling on the starter rope would not turn the crankshaft. BUT the key need not be completely sheared. Sometimes one can get spark (lawnmower experience after hitting a rock) but the thing won't run. Look it over carefully. Any bend in the key will offset the flywheel's angular position.
If all else fails, try replacing the new capacitor.
It's my understanding that wire bridges the insulation provided by the rubber av mounts, I've seen kill switches not work when the wire was fitted incorrectly.
Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
Tried to strip it down to check the key, but found out I did the flywheel up so tight I now can't get it off :/
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Yeah, I had similar problems getting the flywheel off. Somewhere in the forums others suggested placing a ball peen hammer in the center of the shaft and whacking it with another hammer. I did and it immediately freed the flywheel. Once when I did this, it moved the crankshaft such that it would not rotate... hit an obstruction inside the crank case. When I post this, another responder suggested just whacking the other end to reposition it back to its original position. I did and it did.
Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
Think maybe I'll crack on with doing the fix on the other saw then come back to this one and attempt to rectify it!
Are we bypassing the old capacitor here? Is there a reason we can't solder the new cap in place of the old one rather than epoxying it to the housing? I'm planning to help a friend do this tonight on an 056. The condition is that the saw loses spark after heating up (about 5 minutes from cold) and then quite often after that. Will this fix remedy this symptom?
Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
As I understand it the old cap is buried deep in the potting so yes you're bypassing it when you cut the bus.
Update is that I've completed the fix successfully on saw number 2. Just need to get round to dismantling the first one again for a thorough checking now...
Update is that I've completed the fix successfully on saw number 2. Just need to get round to dismantling the first one again for a thorough checking now...
Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
Also mogman, I'm not an expert but that sounds more like a coil issue. But for the sake of a cheap capacitor and a couple hours work you may as well attempt the fix, nothing to lose!
I understand and will follow your instructions but I'm trying to understand more about what your fix is accomplishing and how it's doing it and if it's relevant to my friend's issue. I am not an ignition expert so I can assure you I certainly will be following your writeup....just trying to understand more. Mike53 thanks for the tip, you may be right. My friend and I are going to put our heads together in a couple hours to try and sort this out.
Mike53
ArboristSite Lurker
As an engineering student I also would be interested to see what was under the potting in the ignition foggysail initially experimented with! Though I can understand why he has not shown it for the sake of keeping the thread as non-technical as possible.
xdriver
ArboristSite Lurker
Mogman8 is going to help me tonight!
I have a Stihl 056 AV Super Electronic
The saw will run for 5 minutes or so and then shut off and will not start again until you let it sit for 5-10 minutes. It will then run for another 5 minutes or so, and die again until you let it sit/cool. Is this the capacitor problem that foggysail has outlined a fix for, or possibly some other problem other than either the capacitor or shut off wire insulation/switch?
Thanks guys, and gals if you are out there.
I have a Stihl 056 AV Super Electronic
The saw will run for 5 minutes or so and then shut off and will not start again until you let it sit for 5-10 minutes. It will then run for another 5 minutes or so, and die again until you let it sit/cool. Is this the capacitor problem that foggysail has outlined a fix for, or possibly some other problem other than either the capacitor or shut off wire insulation/switch?
Thanks guys, and gals if you are out there.
If it has the Bosch ignition, I would say yes. I just started the mod on my 045, but have to wait for the darn capacitor to get here. Like three weeks. Bummer! Anyway like to thank mike53 for turning me on to this thread, glad to hear you got at least one going so far. A big thanks to foggysail as well, good to have people like you around.
foggy I found these on mouser electronics if they will work
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/BFC237852105
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/BFC237852105
So it appears the issue with xdriver's 056 was cracked insulation on the kill switch wire, shorting out after heating up, the saw ran for 15 minutes (longer than it's ever run since it started acting up) before shearing the key, I think we didn't have the key nested in the keyway properly. Once we get a new key in there well know for sure
Yes, Mouser sells capacitors along with many other components. Rather than search through their listings, consider
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-PHILIP...apacitor-/161203941323?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
So did you put the capacitor in? I took mine apart and noticed I have the same issue with the kill switch wire.
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