powerking
ArboristSite Guru
I would like to think so.......I marked it when I removed it for the no spark condition...... Could it be different now that I did the fix? I really don't understand there method on timing it either
SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!
- Thread starter foggysail
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There's a timing mark on the ignition plate and a corresponding mark on the crank case.
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
I looked for that upon removal but didn't see any so I made my own marks on both surfaces......could it be that far off to cause a no start?
'Nuther stupid question; Is the flywheel properly aligned? And another one; Are we sure it's the correct flywheel?
Here's a link to some material I've compiled and converted to PDF that may be helpful. All should be downloadable files, but may or may not also open online depending on your browser plugins, etc. If it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try again.
https://drive.google.com/folderview...pGZVV1OFNYdGptSVJhUmNVWkJ0SWlkYTg&usp=sharing
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
....Pogo...thanks for the info, It won't allow me to view it though........I can see 5 files though can't open them........flywheel alignment? I thought you just put the key in and reinstall? It is def the correct flywheel....it's not the one for points ignition with the bigger slots in it.........no stupid questions here.....I'm open to everything
Some way you really need all that info he posted !! OH MY that took a lot of time to put all that together , and I only looked at the first one ! LOL
I don't much care for Stihls of that age , but that info is priceless to anyone that touches one !
Thank you so very much for posting all of that Poge !!
If the key is there and it's the original ignition setup, that would seem to be covered. All the files are downloadable PDF's. Sounds like you may need an app or browser add-on to view them online.
My pleasure, tbone. Definitive Dave was nice enough to trust me with all the relevant old hard copy he had recently acquired.
Dave is a great guy ! Helps me all the time !!!!My pleasure, tbone. Definitive Dave was nice enough to trust me with all the relevant old hard copy he had recently acquired.
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
Well I was able to check those files when I got home here to my desktop. Unfortunetly, none of them apply to the Bosch ignition, only to the SEM.......Unless I missed something...But I will take a lok again
You missed something. The Bosch setup is referenced in both the 045 and 056 IPL's as well the change to the SEM detailed in the Tech Notes document.
Good luck getting things sorted out. Let us know how it goes.
Good luck getting things sorted out. Let us know how it goes.
It's been a few weeks so here's a semi update on the ignition mod to the Dolmar 153.
When I store saws I drain them then run it until it quits. To get them going a little squirt of gas is needed down the carb. Of course I over did it and fouled the plug. Cleaned the plug and off it went in a cloud of 4 stroking smoke. The idle was much higher than pre mod. Like around 3000. Turn the screw down and it's fine. This makes me wonder if it's just improved spark, (unlikely) or that the advance curve now begins at a much lower RPM.
Tomorrow I attack a 3 foot maple and we'll see how it goes. I'll post results that is if my aging body will be able to type after lugging that 100cc boat anchor around for a couple hours.
When I store saws I drain them then run it until it quits. To get them going a little squirt of gas is needed down the carb. Of course I over did it and fouled the plug. Cleaned the plug and off it went in a cloud of 4 stroking smoke. The idle was much higher than pre mod. Like around 3000. Turn the screw down and it's fine. This makes me wonder if it's just improved spark, (unlikely) or that the advance curve now begins at a much lower RPM.
Tomorrow I attack a 3 foot maple and we'll see how it goes. I'll post results that is if my aging body will be able to type after lugging that 100cc boat anchor around for a couple hours.
100% success. The foggymod is epic!
I pounded the snot out of the old Dolmar yesterday in a big maple with the 36 inch bar on it. Just to preclude any vapor lock I ran non alky 91 gas with a little 100 low lead avgas for aroma@25:1 stihl oil. I intentionally ran it dry and refilled it.
Woo hoo!! three pulls and it was back online. I ran about four tanks through it and it didn't miss a beat. Mega thanks foggy for the efforts.
I pounded the snot out of the old Dolmar yesterday in a big maple with the 36 inch bar on it. Just to preclude any vapor lock I ran non alky 91 gas with a little 100 low lead avgas for aroma@25:1 stihl oil. I intentionally ran it dry and refilled it.
Woo hoo!! three pulls and it was back online. I ran about four tanks through it and it didn't miss a beat. Mega thanks foggy for the efforts.
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
I would think this is a good enough hot blue spark no?
Hell, it looks like you could weld with that!
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
Poge....Ive come to the conclusion that it HAS to be a timing issue......Ive read the info you have posted(thank you kindly by the way), and Ive made a few adjustments of the stator plate and I still cant even get it to fire off a little prime......sigh........ to recap, compression is a solid 150psi(I checked it with another tester also), plug def gets fuel, floods back out carb after about 4 pulls, tried 3 different plugs......Heck I even yelled at it!!!
We certainly have a head-scratcher here...
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
...From what I can find out, the guy said it just stopped running about 8 yrs ago. I put new ring in it
Put a degree wheel on it and make a pointer that is fixed. Find TDC and lock the degree wheel at 0 on the pointer. Flywheel side or clutch side makes no difference. Then with an assistant or two, spin the engine over and with your timing light you can see where it's firing. Plug out of the cylinder but grounded of course.
Adjust the mag plate to indicate whatever degrees BTDC your engine is supposed to have.
Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...ash=item2c76ffea48:g:a3sAAOxy4t1SiqpO&vxp=mtr
*Don't run it with the degree wheel. But you can spin it with a drill up to a couple thousand revs which also should show you an advance curve if it has one.
Adjust the mag plate to indicate whatever degrees BTDC your engine is supposed to have.
Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...ash=item2c76ffea48:g:a3sAAOxy4t1SiqpO&vxp=mtr
*Don't run it with the degree wheel. But you can spin it with a drill up to a couple thousand revs which also should show you an advance curve if it has one.
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