They last like a normal ES bar.
Sugi-Hara vs Tsumura?
- Thread starter DarthTater
- Start date
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I do it so I don't need 2 different chain sizes.
This tree is 48" at the base and right at 110' tall. There was just shy of 6 cord in that tree.
The picture isn't the greatest but that's me toward the top of the tree.
That is my 395 with a 32" bar. I now have a 36" sugi I got from you when you still had them. I also added a full wrap handle.
I ran just over 2 gallons of saw gas that day in my 395 alone.
Not quite the only reason I use it. .050" is common and .063" isn't but I like it better for long bars.
SawTroll
Information Collector
.050 in regular .325 or 3/8" doesn't really make any sense anyway, as the upper part of the chain is like .058 with Oregon, and like .063 with Stihl chain. The only reason to use it, is if availiability is much better than with other gauges in your area, which only applies to certain parts of the US.
Very uncommon in most of the world.....
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
050 vs 063
I did a test where I did 10 total cuts in different wood with 28" bars (stihl 28" 050 & 063, tsumura 28" 050 & 063, & cannon 28" 050 & 063.) on a 660 running full oiler.
I then put all the bars in a vise and looked at the oil saturation in the bar grooves. There was a nice difference between how dry and wet the 050 and 063 are. ie. 063 bars were more saturated/wet in wood chip pack in the groove.
So does 063 oil better from 28" and up ? I believe it does.
Is 063 stronger? In some brand chains I believe it is. In stihl 050 chains, it's 063 up top, bottom half of the Drive links are swagged down to .050.
that said - I think it's far easier for the bottoms of 050 drive links to get dinged up vs .063. - from the chain coming out of the groove from needing to be re tensioned, or a long bar sideways cut or whatever. I have 30+ bars at the moment and all my testing I'll say that the only chains I've had an issue with the drive links getting dinged up are .050.
not so important - having/testing so many bars i'm constantly changing things around. I will say that mounting a .063 chain is far easier. Especially when the saw isn't on a table in the ideal setup. Doesn't really apply, but worth mentioning I guess.
lastly - 063 may not be on the shelf much where I am, but I can order 063 RS all i want. And at this point I think that's the best chain stihl makes. Square ground doesn't stay sharp. Rapid Micro isn't good in the long bar. Full skips seem to dull faster. Now if Stihl would make a rapid super half skip...that would be the ticket.
I did a test where I did 10 total cuts in different wood with 28" bars (stihl 28" 050 & 063, tsumura 28" 050 & 063, & cannon 28" 050 & 063.) on a 660 running full oiler.
I then put all the bars in a vise and looked at the oil saturation in the bar grooves. There was a nice difference between how dry and wet the 050 and 063 are. ie. 063 bars were more saturated/wet in wood chip pack in the groove.
So does 063 oil better from 28" and up ? I believe it does.
Is 063 stronger? In some brand chains I believe it is. In stihl 050 chains, it's 063 up top, bottom half of the Drive links are swagged down to .050.
that said - I think it's far easier for the bottoms of 050 drive links to get dinged up vs .063. - from the chain coming out of the groove from needing to be re tensioned, or a long bar sideways cut or whatever. I have 30+ bars at the moment and all my testing I'll say that the only chains I've had an issue with the drive links getting dinged up are .050.
not so important - having/testing so many bars i'm constantly changing things around. I will say that mounting a .063 chain is far easier. Especially when the saw isn't on a table in the ideal setup. Doesn't really apply, but worth mentioning I guess.
lastly - 063 may not be on the shelf much where I am, but I can order 063 RS all i want. And at this point I think that's the best chain stihl makes. Square ground doesn't stay sharp. Rapid Micro isn't good in the long bar. Full skips seem to dull faster. Now if Stihl would make a rapid super half skip...that would be the ticket.
Matt81
Bliss: Saw full of fuel and yard full of trees!
DarthTater
Keep Calm & Carry a Chainsaw
Ok, Local saw shop says $144 for a 32 and $154 for a 36 Stihl ES Light.
my remaining question(s) are if the ES Sires wears as long as Sugi's & Tsumuras.... personaly i've never worn out a bar but still want the best for the $$$
also I need to be sure my 12mm 044 can output enough oil or can be upgraded to to handle those bar lengths.
my remaining question(s) are if the ES Sires wears as long as Sugi's & Tsumuras.... personaly i've never worn out a bar but still want the best for the $$$
also I need to be sure my 12mm 044 can output enough oil or can be upgraded to to handle those bar lengths.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
measurement of the groove depth is one thing to consider as far as life.
My tsumura 28 32 36 is around .37"
My Stihl 28 32 36 is around .32
manual says replace at .265 if i remember right.
so in theory you should get more life out of the tsumura. But that is just considering one trait.
My tsumura 28 32 36 is around .37"
My Stihl 28 32 36 is around .32
manual says replace at .265 if i remember right.
so in theory you should get more life out of the tsumura. But that is just considering one trait.
You'll have to mod the oiler yourself. There's no oem HO oiler option.
DarthTater
Keep Calm & Carry a Chainsaw
yeah I know just wasn't sure if the stock one would do it or not.
bryanr2
Addicted to ArboristSite
when I got my 10mm 044 it came with a 32'' bar. It did ok but not great pulling it. I dont think I would like the performance of a 36'' on a 70cc saw.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I was mainly thinking of the "sagging"that appears when the saw is turned on its side - the cutouts in the metal has to make some difference.
There's not that much in the Tsumura or stihl ones. Oregon does more than any.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I know - I believe most have "written off" the Oregon for a while by now?
It's not awful like a 48" bar or longer. You just start the cut towards the tip and let it pull itself into the wood and it's a non issue. If you try to dawg in right away it can bind up if it's whipping a little.
