Super xl-925 no start help

[MAD MARK]

Got a Super XL-925 been trying to get this thing fired up. Last saw running about 10 years ago maybe longer.

- Emptied fluids and refilled with new.
- Swapped out bad carb gas line (cracked)
- New spark plug, has good spark
- Changed out run/off switch (was bad)
- Checked compression (165+)
- Took apart carb completely and carb looked great inside. Still sprayed out with carb cleaner through each hole.
- Try to start up, won't even BLURB over 1 time.
- Carb floods itself if I leave the gas line hooked up, so I pull a few times and take gas line off.
- Pull spark plug, wet with new gas.
- Let saw air out, shoot starting fluid one time down carb throat. Still no BLURB

With it not even trying to start up even on choke or without, what should I be checking next?

 

[rupedoggy]

See that Stihl under the bench. Check that out next. Mike

 

[MAD MARK]

See that Stihl under the bench. Check that out next. Mike

That 026 runs fine. No issues there.

 

[undee70ss]

Has it ever fired? If no, take a known good plug, cut ground strap off, check for spark. If no spark, bad ignition. SXL925’s have a one piece or 3 piece ignition depending on year made.

 

[MAD MARK]

It's fired before years ago. Was father in laws old "good" saw.

It has the 1 piece ignition. And I know it has good spark. I can blatantly see it on the plug.

 

[undee70ss]

It takes more voltage to spark under compression than it does on the outside. That’s the reason for the test.

 

[Little Al]

If it ends up wet/flooded the carb wants stripping & a repair kit fitting, you could try leaving it standing a couple of days with spark plug out fit plug diconnect fuel line a spray of 2smoke mix in the carb throat set choke to closed click on fast idle (if it has one)& a pull or two see if you get a pop the flooding points to faulty needle valve in carb

 

[smokey7]

Are you positive the carb gaskets and diaphrams are installed in proper order? Also did you hook the metering diaphram onto the needel valve.

 

[MAD MARK]

When I took the carb apart, everything appeared in correct order according to the IPL I have.

If no, take a known good plug, cut ground strap off, check for spark. If no spark, bad ignition.

Cut ground strap off?

 

[dynodave]

When I took the carb apart, everything appeared in correct order according to the IPL I have.
Cut ground strap off?

Plug with cut off strap makes a very large gap more closely simulating an engine under pressure. If a plug will only jump .015-.020" it is NOT enough to fire up.
IMO sounds like carb trouble too/also

 

[MAD MARK]

Plug with cut off strap makes a very large gap more closely simulating an engine under pressure. If a plug will only jump .015-.020" it is NOT enough to fire up.
IMO sounds like carb trouble too/also

I have a spare good plug, I can try this.

Only reason why I am thinking its not the carb is I cant even get it to pop with starter fluid.

Maybe Ill take carb back off and soak over the weekend.

 

[MAD MARK]

Took a known good plug and cut the grounder off. It won't spark.

So who wants to send me a good ignition module, or I send this one and you try it out for me? I see new ones $100.

 

[Old2stroke]

Carb flooding is usually caused by the inlet valve not seating or just being held open by the control lever set wrong or the gasket on wrong side of the diaphragm. With the engine dried out to the point where it should run and with the gas line disconnected, try squirting some fuel directly in the spark plug hole and seeing if it will fire. If it will fire when you do this but not when you squirt fuel in the carb inlet, then you have reed valves that aren't closing.

 

[MAD MARK]

Carb flooding is usually caused by the inlet valve not seating or just being held open by the control lever set wrong or the gasket on wrong side of the diaphragm. With the engine dried out to the point where it should run and with the gas line disconnected, try squirting some fuel directly in the spark plug hole and seeing if it will fire. If it will fire when you do this but not when you squirt fuel in the carb inlet, then you have reed valves that aren't closing.

I've tried this and no pop or blurb. At this point I'm guessing module is bad.

Anyone got a good used one I can try out?

 

[MAD MARK]

 

[MAD MARK]

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
It looks like the end of the crankshaft might have been massaged in the past. Back in the day some people were known to pull the flywheel key and retard the ignition. Might have slipped or, sheared if it had a key. Those modules as a rule either work, or they don't. If you were seeing spark on a normal plug, pretty good chance it's working. Did you happen to check the air gap before you removed the module? Also, when mounted, there should be good continuity between the armature of the module, and the cylinder. That 165 compression was probably because of how wet it was. Don't ever use starter fluid on a 2 cycle for any reason. Just use a little fresh mixed fuel if primong needs be. Sounds like you still might have fuel issues but, you can deal with that once you get it to fire. If it's flooding, don't even hook fuel to the carb until you get it to pop on a prime.
Regards
Gregg

 

[MAD MARK]

I have left the gas line off since I noticed it flooding.

Until I do get a pop or blurb, I am not caring about the carb, or its issues yet.

The air gap was good. I tried a few different gaps to see if that helped. Also thoroughly cleaned the module and flywheel mags.

I hardly doubt it was "massaged" but you never know. This was an older personal use "big" saw.

And that 165# was dry. I checked it before I even tried starting it to see if it was worth my time. I know what you mean by wet though, when trying to get it to start with some gas mix in the spark plug hole it was darn near impossible to pull.

 

[MAD MARK]

At this point I'm not wasting $100 on a new module and then the saw doesn't work. I'll keep it on the shelf maybe a used 925 will pop up at yard sale...lol

 

[Hoggwood]

I sometimes resort to throwing a socket on the flywheel and turning it using a drill. Plug should produce nice spark against the cylinder. I've had some flywheels with weakened magnetic poles, particularly if they've been smacked in an effort to remove them without a proper puller. Even with a good coil, the poles are too weak to produce a healthy spark at the RPM the drill provides.