Super xl-925 no start help

[Beetlejuice]

All great advice. In my limited experience the most common problem with the no fire sanario is gap between flywheel and mag. I run everything at 3/1000. Found that just works the best. I like the shear pin (key) theory also. Has got to be an electronic problem or you would have had a fart.. Points aren't stuck either open or closed? Anyway, my two bits..

 

[MAD MARK]

All great advice. In my limited experience the most common problem with the no fire sanario is gap between flywheel and mag. I run everything at 3/1000. Found that just works the best. I like the shear pin (key) theory also. Has got to be an electronic problem or you would have had a fart.. Points aren't stuck either open or closed? Anyway, my two bits..

I don't know how to check the points. Any insight there?

And what do you use to gap the flywheel? I don't have a tool for that.

Thanks for all advice and tips.

 

[undee70ss]

I don't know how to check the points. Any insight there?

And what do you use to gap the flywheel? I don't have a tool for that.

Thanks for all advice and tips.

SXL925’s never had points. A thinner business works as a gapping tool. Mount module on saw, turn flywheel till magnets are under module, put business card between flywheel magnets and module, loosen module bolts, (module will get pulled to flywheel) tighten module bolts, remove business card. Check for fire. If no fire, try to mount module as close as possible without rubbing flywheel.

 

[Beetlejuice]

I don't know how to check the points. Any insight there?

And what do you use to gap the flywheel? I don't have a tool for that.

Thanks for all advice and tips.

I use a feeler gauge.. The strip type.. Loose mag screws, put the magnets and magneto together.. I open em back up with a screwdriver wedgie (tech term) slide 3/1000 in-between sideways, let my wedgie go, it comes together, I tighten the screws, and depending on which way my feeler is, rotate it out with the flywheel

 

[Beetlejuice]

I use a feeler gauge.. The strip type.. Loose mag screws, put the magnets and magneto together.. I open em back up with a screwdriver wedgie (tech term) slide 3/1000 in-between sideways, let my wedgie go, it comes together, I tighten the screws, and depending on which way my feeler is, rotate it out with the flywheel

I must have a strange 925 cuz it has all the guts of a point system. Just saying

 

[MAD MARK]

I must have a strange 925 cuz it has all the guts of a point system. Just saying

I have a later 1 piece ignition module.

Ill try to readjust the module today. I believe I have a feeler gauge set. Been awhile. If not, business cards it is!

 

[Beetlejuice]

Use a

I have a later 1 piece ignition module.

Ill try to readjust the module today. I believe I have a feeler gauge set. Been awhile. If not, business cards it is!

Use a go/no go system.. The closer you have it the better it is

 

[MAD MARK]

I'll be damned the business card trick worked.

Got it fired up and fixed the carb issue. It was the bottom diaphragm I didn't seat the metal part onto the needle lever thingies.

Now I just got to keep it running for longer than 15 seconds.

 

[undee70ss]

Success!!! Failure rate on those modules is very low. Glad you got fire now.

 

[undee70ss]

I'll be damned the business card trick worked.

Got it fired up and fixed the carb issue. It was the bottom diaphragm I didn't seat the metal part onto the needle lever thingies.

Now I just got to keep it running for longer than 15 seconds.

What kind of carb does it have?

 

[rupedoggy]

Most of them had the tillotson HS

 

[MAD MARK]

Most of them had the tillotson HS

Yep that's it. Ordered a rebuild kit for it just in case, mainly wanted the carb to "thoat" gaskets I think I have a small air leak.

 

[undee70ss]

SXL925’s came with Tillotson HS151, and later models came with Walbro WJ27. 151’s has special tuning instructions. See pic.

 

[MAD MARK]

Thanks a lot for that picture, was trying to find where to set the needles at. Wouldn't start until I set low 1.5 turns out.

Got it run for a couple minutes but still believe small air leak. The idle keeps revving away up then almost stalls unless I blip it.

 

[undee70ss]

Easiest way to find leaks is to do a crankcase pressure/vacuum test. Common place for leaks is crankshaft seals.

 

[Old2stroke]

Good to see you got some life out of that beast. When you get it running properly and the carb tuned to the sweet spot, you will be impressed with the power it puts out. I have a Super XL-922 which is a close cousin and about the same vintage and some of it's problems were due to carb issues. One was an erratic idle due to air leaking from a badly worn throttle shaft (must have been owned by a compulsive throttle blipper). Another problem that yours may have is the "buz-ball" governor. It's just a ball bearing held against a fuel orifice that vibrates off if the RPM gets too high and then lets extra fuel bypass the main jet making the mixture too rich, which drops the RPM. My saw was running erratic under full load so I just disabled the damn thing and the saw ran fine.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Does that saw have electronic ignition or points? I was thinking that some of those saws that old had points. I have a 924XL but don't remember what it has..