Superaxe? Aussiechopper?

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Another pretty cool option, especially if you get a fair bit of bigger rounds and are building yourself, could be this but with a foot peddle like the powersplit and/or auto cycling options:


It's a fair bit like Whitlands Rex splitter.
 
When they slid the super split off the forks into the back of my ute at the warehouse I was really disappointed. It looked flimsy. Frankly, it looked like a toy. I looked at those parts on the pallet and then all the way home I was dreaming up things I'd need to fab and mod. By the time I got home, I wasn't feeling so despondent. Well, it still looks like a toy and I haven't done any strengthening work and are splitting a fair amount of dense wood that just seems to fracture or shatter rather than actually split, but it handles it fine.

If the rounds are there already, and ideally sized, my best day is about 29m3. By myself. But I was sore for the next few days and ain't no way I could sustain that rate. Average in the real world if the rounds are there ready to go is about 12-16m3 a day, every day.

These days, I'm looking for solutions that look slow and easy but are actually pretty darn high producers. Things like the Tempest sliver V or their EF models are cool. The Aussie Chopper with a 4-way or X looks the good too.

What's the idea behind the rollers, that can't be done with an UHMWPE cover on the table? It's one of the best mods I ever did to my super split. Very low friction and it's remarkably hard wearing.
 
The rollers a great for bigger wood granted,we have a sheet metal plate made up to cover the lifter/roller table part when doing smaller wood so you can stand them on there ends and dont fall over works a treat.
 
If we could combine the vertical wedge of the Rex and Tempest Sliver V with a pair of big-don't-argue flywheels powered by a relatively small wee diesel engine, then we would have the best of split times and efficiency. Axle/shaft/center of flywheel just under the table, two pinion gears on the shaft for two racks, one either side of the wedge (obviously working in tandem only). A small generator on the shaft too, to operate three things; an electric/mechanical engagement of the racks, a wedge return motor, and a motor for the log lift.
 
yeap, Cupressus macrocarpa. On his youtube channel is one showing him splitting different types, including gum. I note bugger all of it splits completely and that's one dangerous machine.
 
Im on east coast of oz and we mostly burn ironbark, red gum and box !!
I like the super axe but its pretty pricey from memory
My 30t which cost me $2000 few years ago but would swap for super axe if i had the chance
 
What do u guys think about building a super axe, but making more attachment points on the cylinder end of "the axe." This would give the operator the choice between faster cycle times or greater splitting force.

My father rented a log splitter the other day and I helped him split a few tons of firewood.

This rented splitter was so fantastic compared to my homemade unit. I don't know the model, but it was rated at 25 ton, had a honda engine, and it was fast! It has motivated me to build a new one.

I don't like to follow the crowd and would like to build a super axe type splitter.
 
Well I decided it was time to make my life a bit easier and splurged and bought a WS3150 Aussiechopper. Have been using a "40t" Chinese unit for the last few years but am cutting and splitting not just for our own use now so decided to upgrade
afb228ae2c67ce911293e4424be273ef.jpg
bb8f9f9f156f2c62e433d0967cfbc378.jpg
 
Well I decided it was time to make my life a bit easier and splurged and bought a WS3150 Aussiechopper. Have been using a "40t" Chinese unit for the last few years but am cutting and splitting not just for our own use now so decided to upgrade
afb228ae2c67ce911293e4424be273ef.jpg
bb8f9f9f156f2c62e433d0967cfbc378.jpg

Benn are you going to link the control handles together .
 
So what are the cycle time and normal rate of production on the superaxe?

On the superaxe if you get a knotty block of wood and the blade contacts the wood perfectly the top of the wood , what happens? Being only a three inch ram.
Does the superaxe work better with the tip or heel of the blade making contact with the wood first?
If heel of blade is meant to contact the wood first, does it ever feel like the wood block wants to move towards the operator?
 

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