Big_Eddy
Using your idea, got me to this to get forward/reverse.
Using your idea, got me to this to get forward/reverse.
SuperSplit: Need help with idea.
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
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I've long thought of attaching my SS to the conveyor making it one trailer that I could attach to the 4 wheeler and tow around to the wood piles. I'd just move the axle on the conveyor to get the desired tongue weight.
Sounds like a good mod.
Then self-propelled is the next step...like the PowerSplit.
Then self-propelled is the next step...like the PowerSplit.
Although more expensive, I keep coming back to using off the shelf parts, or some common salvaged parts, to build an independent mobil platform.
Gas engine, hydraulic pump/motor, tank, valves, maybe hydraulic steering. The SuperSplit bolts to that via bolt holes previously used by the two leg posts.
Seems like it would be a simple system, few moving parts, adaptable to engine on one end/transmission of power to the other with variable speed control, and forward/reverse.
Another reason is that during the build process, the splitter can still be used as is. The mobil base can be tested/trouble shot without tying up the splitter.
Gas engine, hydraulic pump/motor, tank, valves, maybe hydraulic steering. The SuperSplit bolts to that via bolt holes previously used by the two leg posts.
Seems like it would be a simple system, few moving parts, adaptable to engine on one end/transmission of power to the other with variable speed control, and forward/reverse.
Another reason is that during the build process, the splitter can still be used as is. The mobil base can be tested/trouble shot without tying up the splitter.
I was typing and did not see your post.
Yes exactly!
How does one size stuff, pumps and motors, to be compatible?
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Those are the same parts as used on a walk behind hydrostatic mower so would be much cheaper to just find a used one than to buy all new parts and then have to fab up the frame, motor mounts etc. Most of them only have 6 or 8 bolts holding the deck on. It would only take a couple hours max to remove deck and connect to your super split. I used one to make a fertilizer spreader and a weed sprayer years ago. Walk behind snow blowers are also compact and cheap.
Yep. Using the rear of an existing hydro walk behind will be the cheapest and easiest method to accomplish the goal.
Years ago SCAG sold plow attachments for their walk behinds. Take the deck off and mount the plow.
sent from a field
Years ago SCAG sold plow attachments for their walk behinds. Take the deck off and mount the plow.
sent from a field
You can also get a sulky and then your walk behind is a ride behind.
sent from a field
sent from a field
could also use a troybuilt tiller. They have forward and reverse. then put some tires on it like this.
I've been scanning local Craigslist for mowers, tillers, snow blowers and such. Found a quad salvage/auctions network site. The quad auction stuff seemed reasonable price wise, until you read the fine print. Auction fees and yard fees can easily double a three to four hundred dollar salvage title unit to eight hundred or more.
Much to explore and learn.
Forward/reverse is a priority.
The staging table on wheels has a John Deere rear axle. It is mounted backwards and the shift lever cut off. One like it could be used with a horizontal shaft engine.
The conveyor dolly is normally the front axle of the of the staging trailer when not on the conveyor. It does double duty if I need to move the conveyor. (The staging trailer is no longer used.) The front axle is John Deere also.
Much to explore and learn.
Forward/reverse is a priority.
The staging table on wheels has a John Deere rear axle. It is mounted backwards and the shift lever cut off. One like it could be used with a horizontal shaft engine.
The conveyor dolly is normally the front axle of the of the staging trailer when not on the conveyor. It does double duty if I need to move the conveyor. (The staging trailer is no longer used.) The front axle is John Deere also.
I'll second looking for a Gravely walk behind tractor. Forward, reverse, high low range.
Place a horizontal lockable pivot bearing of some kind on the PTO plate (in front of the wheels right about where the black bar comes in) and a solid front axle.
They usually have a rear hitch for a sulky you can ride on (currently a counterweight for the blower) hook up to that to tow it backwards with your wagon train once-over you put it in neutral.
They are HEAVY and powerful so it should have plenty of traction to push the splitter over loose chips. Dad has some other ones that have bar tires that are very capable. A lockable pivot bearing might be essential if you need to push the splitter over stuff and one wheel gets chocked with debris and the whole thing articulates instead of going foward.
This model has the Gravely quick hitch, if you keep up with that system, you could switch tractor to a different axle out quickly if you wanted to tow further or use the tractor for other tasks.
Edit: black tube is a counterweight for the snowblower so is the thing on the back.
Place a horizontal lockable pivot bearing of some kind on the PTO plate (in front of the wheels right about where the black bar comes in) and a solid front axle.
They usually have a rear hitch for a sulky you can ride on (currently a counterweight for the blower) hook up to that to tow it backwards with your wagon train once-over you put it in neutral.
They are HEAVY and powerful so it should have plenty of traction to push the splitter over loose chips. Dad has some other ones that have bar tires that are very capable. A lockable pivot bearing might be essential if you need to push the splitter over stuff and one wheel gets chocked with debris and the whole thing articulates instead of going foward.
This model has the Gravely quick hitch, if you keep up with that system, you could switch tractor to a different axle out quickly if you wanted to tow further or use the tractor for other tasks.
Edit: black tube is a counterweight for the snowblower so is the thing on the back.
Ideas are still slowly percolating.
Could the off-side flywheel on the SuperSplit use belt drive to a jack shaft with Love Joy coupling, to power a hydraulic pump? (There by eliminating a second engine on the splitter to power a hydraulic pump/motor.)
If the jack shaft pulley is the same diameter as the engine pulley, the result should be closely similar to directly coming off the engine.
Could the off-side flywheel on the SuperSplit use belt drive to a jack shaft with Love Joy coupling, to power a hydraulic pump? (There by eliminating a second engine on the splitter to power a hydraulic pump/motor.)
If the jack shaft pulley is the same diameter as the engine pulley, the result should be closely similar to directly coming off the engine.
I dont think those small engines have a provision to mount a stubshaft or pulley on the flywheel. Dont think the flywheel is drilled and tapped. You can yank the cover off the engine and tell pretty quick if you can mount a pulley or stub but I am betting the pull cord is in the way
The SuperSplit engine has a centrifugal clutch with a double pulley. Two belts to one of two SuperSplit flywheels. The other SuperSplit flywheel does not have belts.
To clarify, the SuperSplit flywheel opposite the gas powered belt driven flywheel was what my question is about.
Belts from the cast iron SuperSplit flywheel to power a jack shaft. Jack shaft coupled to hydraulic pump with LoveJoy coupler.
To clarify, the SuperSplit flywheel opposite the gas powered belt driven flywheel was what my question is about.
Belts from the cast iron SuperSplit flywheel to power a jack shaft. Jack shaft coupled to hydraulic pump with LoveJoy coupler.
Armstrong
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Did you end up finding your ideal solution? I'm in the brainstorm process now of making a SS more portable. I have a small metal trailer that goes behind a golf cart and am thinking about mounting the splitter beam on the passenger side wall with the table hanging off from the back. Trailer wheel would be under the production table
I only split from the clutch side though.
I just think it works best to have the wheels under the table and the hitch under the engine side so you wouldnt have to disconnect while splitting.(low speed towing only)
Maybe in your situation you could simple swap the location of the wheels and the Jack stand?unstable?
I only split from the clutch side though.
I just think it works best to have the wheels under the table and the hitch under the engine side so you wouldnt have to disconnect while splitting.(low speed towing only)
Maybe in your situation you could simple swap the location of the wheels and the Jack stand?unstable?
I never moved forward with the idea.
I do have wheels under both ends, wagon style as shown in post #1. Placing the wheels under the table with a ball coupler on the engine/fly wheel end would be quite heavy.
I still think about it, but money comes in and goes right back out it seems. Doing a complete service on the quad. The drive belt that use to cost $42.00, now cost $79.00. The delivery truck could use a couple steer tires at $300. a pop, and a self unloader. I was thinking Kubota r420 and a trailer. Ha!!!
I do have wheels under both ends, wagon style as shown in post #1. Placing the wheels under the table with a ball coupler on the engine/fly wheel end would be quite heavy.
I still think about it, but money comes in and goes right back out it seems. Doing a complete service on the quad. The drive belt that use to cost $42.00, now cost $79.00. The delivery truck could use a couple steer tires at $300. a pop, and a self unloader. I was thinking Kubota r420 and a trailer. Ha!!!
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