Synthetic Oil then back to Regular 2 cycle oil?

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iCreek

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First let me say I searched here, and then Googled the Internet for a few hours. Seems like there is an old myths that once you go Synthetic, you can't go back. No matter how hard I try, really can't find the answer to that question. Do I need to worry about anything if I switch for awhile to the new Stihl HP Ultra fully synthetic mix, then go back to the orange bottles?

Some would say it should not matter as Stihl makes a partial blend 2-cycle oil (black bottles). Curious what others here think as I am leaning towards trying the white bottled HP Ultra as it is suppose to be cleaner, reduce carbon deposits, no spark plug fouling, superior lubrication (has to be, it is Synthetic and cost more), and contains fuel stabilizers.

Just worried if I go Synthetic, I can't go back .....

Found this document on the Web, Why Buy Stihl Oil

Welcome any comments....
 
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In my opinion if you're not gonna test the gas for ethanol content you might just be better off using dino. buts thats just me and I have no data to back it up.
 
In my opinion if you're not gonna test the gas for ethanol content you might just be better off using dino. buts thats just me and I have no data to back it up.

Currently using blended gas from station that contains ethanol, but we found a small m&p station about 7 miles from us that carrys the older 'regular' gasoline. So we are planning on using the gasoline without the ethanol blend, and also going synthetic. Glad to hear others are already doing that with good results.
 
Your fuel should be 89 octane or above. Most "regular" is 87...

Gary

I will make note of that, I meant more Regular as in old school gasoline, but will check the octane when I get to the pump. Thanks for all the great information.
 
First let me say I searched here, and then Googled the Internet for a few hours. Seems like there is an old myths that once you go Synthetic, you can't go back. Just worried if I go Synthetic, I can't go back .....

Found this document on the Web, Why Buy Stihl Oil

Welcome any comments....

Actually there is a myth in the Motorcycle world about that with transmission oil. (4 strokes sometimes have the transmission oil also lubricating the motor) The Myth is about the clutch..once saturated and used with a synthetic, going back to conventional makes things slip and burns the clutch. I've never hear about 2-stroke oil issues going back and forth, just wet clutch related myths. Is it true? Only time I tried going back to conventional was with an old vintage Husqvarna XC430..and the clutch slipped. So was it the oil? Maybe..maybe not. But thats how those myths are perpetuated. A situation like mine where many things come into play but all I saw was a slipping clutch after the ride where I switched back..so I am never going to do that again! Scientific? no. Superstitious? Probably.
 
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Actually there is a myth in the Motorcycle world about that with transmission oil. (4 strokes sometimes have the transmission oil also lubricating the motor) The Myth is about the clutch..once saturated and used with a synthetic, going back to conventional makes things slip and burns the clutch. I've never hear about 2-stroke oil issues going back and forth, just wet clutch related myths. Is it true? Only time I tried going back to conventional was with an old vintage Husqvarna XC430..and the clutch slipped. So was it the oil? Maybe..maybe not. But thats how those myths are perpetuated. A situation like mine where many things come into play but all I saw was a slipping clutch after the ride where I switched back..so I am never going to do that again! Scientific? no. Superstitious? Probably.

weim,

The whole thing with wet clutches started with Mobil-1 which has a very high graphite/moly content that will embed in some wet clutches.

About the same time the newer higher hp. bikes were just hitting the market and it just wasn't a good combo.
Clutches have advanced since then and most will tolerate the auto Mobil-1 now, but the myth lives on in good health!!

I say phooey on it and just run a dry clutch.:D

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
the problems started with the friction modifiers they add to most oil. It makes the oil work great in the engine but in the clutches it does too good a job of making things slippery and the clutches slip
 
the problems started with the friction modifiers they add to most oil. It makes the oil work great in the engine but in the clutches it does too good a job of making things slippery and the clutches slip

Yea...that rating circle on the back of the oil containers tells that story. I was using the Mobil One 15-50 with the red cap stuff from that time period. Also I can remember a Mobil One tech explaining to me the difference between the then new Mobil One "V Twin" & "Four Stoke" 15-50 from the standard 15-50. It was in their words a very small amount of phosperous & other trace amounts of additives...not enough to make much difference and to just use the 15-50 with the red cap from Walmart! (I worked for a motorcycle company at that time and was tasked with testing jetting setups for 7000 -10000 ft altitude and after moving east, 1000-2000ft altitude.) Also we recommended a synthetic with no friction modifiers because at that time oils with those additives typically were too slippery for our clutch setup's.

The Husqvarna was a different deal. It was when I was racing AHMRA events and decided to use that Mobil One 15-50 in the XC430 as well...after years of Castrol GTX. Toasted the clutch the next day at the track.
 
weim,

The whole thing with wet clutches started with Mobil-1 which has a very high graphite/moly content that will embed in some wet clutches.

About the same time the newer higher hp. bikes were just hitting the market and it just wasn't a good combo.
Clutches have advanced since then and most will tolerate the auto Mobil-1 now, but the myth lives on in good health!!

I say phooey on it and just run a dry clutch.:D

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Thanks for the explaination!
 
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