taking the base gasket out

[fir]

I here about people taking the gasket out I want to know how it seals and what it does to the port timing and if it does what should you do to the port this would be for an already ported husky 359 and not ported big bore stihl 660

 

[Roanoker494]

Removing the gasket will "tighten" the combustion chamber up very slightly, but you need to check the squish first to make sure there is enough room to remove the gasket. The joint needs to be sealed with a fuel resistant sealer like Yama-Bond, Honda-bond or Stihl Dirko. The change is port timing is not usually significant enough to require any other changes, but with your saw already being ported it may effect it more.

 

[fir]

Thanks that is what I was looking for

 

[Roanoker494]

If you do a search on "squish" you should be able to find some threads on how to check it using pieces of soft solder. I have never done this before myself but it seems to be a fairly simple task. You bend two pieces of solder into a L shape, stick them into the cylinder through the plug hole, pull the saw over to squish the solder and then measure the thickness of the solder.

 

[Zombiechopper]

change to port timing is negligible. I port all my own saws by widening only and never change stock timing. They all run very well with squish set to .020" or there abouts and no timing changes. Husky Seems to give very easy to set squish. The two Husky saws I have done were both bang on .040" with .020 gaskets so all I had to do was take it out. Stihls get trickier. After removing gaskets, I still needed something in there on my 361 and 460. I think one of them I had to use beer can for a gasket and the other worked out perfect with cardboard from a chain box. You just have to find suitable thickness material to get what you need.

 

[Zombiechopper]

If you do a search on "squish" you should be able to find some threads on how to check it using pieces of soft solder. I have never done this before myself but it seems to be a fairly simple task. You bend two pieces of solder into a L shape, stick them into the cylinder through the plug hole, pull the saw over to squish the solder and then measure the thickness of the solder.

I use electronic solder in a coiled tube. Pull out a bunch and bend to fit into cylinder. I check at one spot, then cut off the squished tip of solder and check at other spots around the chamber.

 

[angelo c]

I use electronic solder in a coiled tube. Pull out a bunch and bend to fit into cylinder. I check at one spot, then cut off the squished tip of solder and check at other spots around the chamber.

Guys,
correct me if im wrong but I thought you were supposed to have the solder contacting at least two points on the piston head to remove any possiblity of "rocking" the piston and not getting a true "Squish" reading. might be some play in the bearings and we are talking about thous of inches here.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Guys,
correct me if im wrong but I thought you were supposed to have the solder contacting at least two points on the piston head to remove any possiblity of "rocking" the piston and not getting a true "Squish" reading. might be some play in the bearings and we are talking about thous of inches here.

Yeah pretty much Angelo. If the squish isn't tight, you can try with one piece and allow for a couple of thou etc after doing a few you get the drift. Too tight on the solder and I don't like the side pressure it's putting on things.

Some saws can benefit from the decrease in Ex timing and an increase in In timing that the removal of a gasket can create.

Adjustments to timing no's beyond gasket removal can really help with revs and torque.

 

[fir]

Ill use plastigage from the machine shop I used to work for what is the piston to head tolerance

 

[husq2100]

considering the cylinder will be coming off anyway, I remove it and cut 4 small pieces. A small dab of grease at 12,3,6 and 9 oclock on the piston crown (3 and 9 being above the piston pin). Depending on what size solder you have you may want to pre squish it a little....if its to thick and takes alot of effort to compress it you may be getting a slightly false reading due to small compressions/play take up in the bearings.....

 

[fir]

You no you can get plastigage at your local automotive parts store it is the proper thing to use eh

 

[husq2100]

eh.... I already have the solder in my garage...eh

 

[mowoodchopper]

solder is just as good as plastigage for squish maybe better

 

[Zombiechopper]

I'm using rosin core that is only .035 to start with. It does not take much force to deform the solder. I should check with two or three at the same time and see if there is a difference.

 

[Zombiechopper]

solder is just as good as plastigage for squish maybe better

solder lets you do it without taking anything apart other than removing the plug. You can also use it as a feeler so you know it is right up to the cylinder wall.

 

[angelo c]

eh.... I already have the solder in my garage...eh

Eh ! Are you guys talking Canada Language ??? EH ??


its hard to make out the accent though this innernet thing-a-ma-bobie.. hehe

 

[fir]

eh.... I already have the solder in my garage...eh

And I already havplastigage eh:msp_thumbsup:and yes it it Canadian

 

[brokenbudget]

plasti guage doesn't work near as good as solder. almost doesn't work at all.