tending to your chains

[Redneck Ont]

File in hand, chains that are ground with aftermarket equipment tend to harden the teeth, and make them harder to file, and IMO they are not as sharp, Id rather take the extra 5min and sharpen by hand. :greenchainsaw:

 

[biggenius29]

File in hand, chains that are ground with aftermarket equipment tend to harden the teeth, and make them harder to file, and IMO they are not as sharp, Id rather take the extra 5min and sharpen by hand. :greenchainsaw:

I beg to differ. I used to make the mistake of taking a bunch off the chain in one swipe of the grinder. I would hit the cutter, then back off, then hit it, then back off ect.... untill I took off what I needed. I found it way better for the chain to take a little off each cutter, and when I got to the cutter I started with, take a little more off and repete until I got the cutter lenght I want.

 

[aokpops]

dremil can file hands hurt .

 

[Redneck Ont]

I beg to differ. I used to make the mistake of taking a bunch off the chain in one swipe of the grinder. I would hit the cutter, then back off, then hit it, then back off ect.... untill I took off what I needed. I found it way better for the chain to take a little off each cutter, and when I got to the cutter I started with, take a little more off and repete until I got the cutter lenght I want.

I guess at the end of the day "different strokes for different folks" At the end of the day as long as were all still sharp, its all good

 

[727sunset]

I've been lurking on the side for some time reading in earnest and picking up a lot of great info from AS members. I'll admit right now I use a file guide when sharpening as I definitely don;t have the skill and experience to attempt freehand. The file guides are engraved with various cutting angles but aligning and holding the file thru the cut is easier said than done. To improve my chain sharpening I made a jig which has helped immensely. To start it's just a piece of plywood with the ends cut at 30 degrees in the shape of a trapezoid, a few lines scribed parallel to ends and then a block of wood attached.

Next my bar and chain are sandwiched with the jig in a vise. From here on all I have to do is keep my file level to the bench, canted so it rests on both the cutter and raker then extend my focus to the scribed lines which aligns the file to the correct angle.

This set up although not necessary for the pros is providing me with excellent results consistantly. It is quick to slide the next cutter anywhere near the scribed lines, doesn't have to be in any exact location, so long as you file parallel to the lines.
Another thing I've found highly beneficial as I begin filing each time is using a 5x eye loupe and view progress on cutting edge of top plate . Once enough strokes have cleaned up the cutting edge I give all the cutters the same number of strokes.
Anyway just wanted to share something that is easy to make and may help others sharpen their chains.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Hey, Super, interested in making one of those for me? (let me know)



To the OP. When I started I got a knock off Oregon grinder, but I found that my hand filed chains cut faster. But in the past week I got me a Silvey 510. I was not happy with the knock off for alot of reasons, and I looked at some of the Oregon's (forgot the numbers, 511a's?) and was still not impressed. I just filed my first time tonight with my Silvey and am VERY happy with it. I have yet to cut with it, but from looking at the chain It is way better than the Oregon knock off.

That's a different way to make a vise...mo' pics please!

 

[GAJON]

I've never used a grinder only by hand with the visual guide. Touching up the blade every tank of gas or two has worked well with me. I've found that I have to hit the cutters with my right hand 2 or 3 more times than my left to get a good straight cut. Always big chunks though.