Testing new firewood crating system

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woodchuckcanuck

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Hand stacking after the splitter is still the day to day routine around here. A little while ago I thought of how to make a cost efficient crate that can hold firewood, without having to stack.

Using materials already on hand, like a 36×48″ pallet, 5 pieces of 2×4 and two 4x8ft sheets of rebar mesh, I built this crate to catch the wood coming off the firewood processor.

20200204-firewood-face-cord-bin-test1.jpg

Crate is 5ft tall, filled with 16″ long split wood.

When doing the volumetric math, capacity of that crate is 60 cu ft. General rule of thumb in the firewood industry, that is equivalent to 1/3 a cord (also known as a face cord).

We need to confirm the accuracy of that accepted rule. First step was to remove the rebar mesh side panel. I didn’t think it would collapse and spill out and to my pleasant surprise, it all stayed together.

20200204-firewood-face-cord-bin-test2.jpg

Jenga anyone?

Now to pull the pieces out and stack it in a 4ft x 4ft crate that is measured to hold a face cord. The results speak for themselves. Only bit left was a few scraps at the bottom of the rebar crate.

20200204-firewood-face-cord-bin-test3.jpg

1/3 cord cord stacked out.

Which method do you think will allow the wood to dry better or faster? Loose in the crate or stacked in the crate?
 
I do agree with your math in regards to tossed vs stacked wood volume. For 16" wood I've always done well with 180 cu ft tossed.

Crates and bin ideas keep me awake at night. I recently crunched some numbers on a built crate similar to yours. Concluded the cost was prohibitive. IBCs are nice if you want to stack, but that is what we are all trying to get away from. As well cost is a factor once again.

I think the ideal solution has yet to be found, if in fact it exists.

Anybody remember who it was that had a brother? with the processor in the barn and the huge field of stacked wood? I think the cost of crates compared to cheap stacking labor could be comparable for anybody doing any serious volume.
 
We stacked all last year. I can tell you that it takes us (wife and I) 2.5 hrs (total 5 man hours) to block, split and stack 1 cord. So I started thinking of other ways to cut down the time. Using this crate I figure I can do a full cord by myself in 1 hour. Now, I'd have to build the crates, which would take about 1 to 1.5 hrs to make all three. That includes sawing logs to make the lumber and cutting all the pieces to built the pallet and then build the crate. That investment would be spread out of a couple years of usage.

IBC totes here go for $40 to $50 each. Not cost effective. I figure a crate costs $30 (time and materials) and will get used probably 10 or so times before it need fixing/replacing. If you can pick up pallets for free, and then 5 pieces of 2x4 D grade for a couple $ each, the only other costs are the rebar mesh which are $8 each here. The sheet is cut into 5ft and 3ft pieces. The 5ft goes on the wide side, the 3ft goes on the narrow side. Two sheets per crate.
 
Which method do you think will allow the wood to dry better or faster? Loose in the crate or stacked in the crate?

Loose in the crate will season faster, do to less contact with each other and more exposed surface area.
Another factor is how you stage the split pallets. Crowded tight to each other or spaced out a bit.
Splitting small would also help, however that might change the volume of wood it stacks out to.

Have you ruled out the large firewood bags?

I've tried a few different approaches. Each has its own cost in time or materials, or both.
Even tried to improve stacking by splitting into a raised bin.
IMG_0038.jpg IMG_0039.jpg IMG_0008.jpg
 
I’ve got dozens of extra “shelving” pieces at work and often thought of welding together a crib for my wood. I too think all night about how to stream line and simplify
 

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...Crowded tight to each other or spaced out a bit....

We found out that you need at least at least space to walk through a stack to prevent mold issues. Which was surprising to fin, given its an open field and steady north and south breezes...

...Splitting small would also help, however that might change the volume of wood it stacks out to....

Do you really think so? I assumed the volume conversion between tossed and stacked would be the same whether it was 12" wood or 18" wood.

...Have you ruled out the large firewood bags?...

Yes. Expensive for one thing, over $24 each by the time it arrives here. And I honestly don't think it can dry the wood fast enough given our wet maritime weather.

...I've tried a few different approaches. Each has its own cost in time or materials, or both.
Even tried to improve stacking by splitting into a raised bin.

That bin enclosed in staging is pretty darn smart! The most efficient approach is to just split and put right into the back of the truck and go. When selling green wood, that's easy enough to do. A lot of folks want their wood dry ahead of time though.
 
Hand stacking after the splitter is still the day to day routine around here. A little while ago I thought of how to make a cost efficient crate that can hold firewood, without having to stack.

Using materials already on hand, like a 36×48″ pallet, 5 pieces of 2×4 and two 4x8ft sheets of rebar mesh, I built this crate to catch the wood coming off the firewood processor.

View attachment 795208

Crate is 5ft tall, filled with 16″ long split wood.

When doing the volumetric math, capacity of that crate is 60 cu ft. General rule of thumb in the firewood industry, that is equivalent to 1/3 a cord (also known as a face cord).

We need to confirm the accuracy of that accepted rule. First step was to remove the rebar mesh side panel. I didn’t think it would collapse and spill out and to my pleasant surprise, it all stayed together.

View attachment 795207

Jenga anyone?


Now to pull the pieces out and stack it in a 4ft x 4ft crate that is measured to hold a face cord. The results speak for themselves. Only bit left was a few scraps at the bottom of the rebar crate.

View attachment 795206

1/3 cord cord stacked out.

Which method do you think will allow the wood to dry better or faster? Loose in the crate or stacked in the crate?
Looks good Canuck. I thinking it will dry faster loose. I'm guessing you move stuff around with a tractor? If it was me I would just build some more of the rebar crates but then i hate to stack. :dumb2:
Unrelated but how do you put Woodchuckcanuck on your photos?
 
I like the ibc totes, just wish they were 6” taller. Customers at my day job beg me to take them off their hands so I have an endless supply. It just takes me 10 minutes or less to get one ready for wood. And best of all they usually have 1/2 to 2 gallons of agchem left in them that I salvage for my farm.

I stack them in a single row and flip them towards the sun half way through summer.
 
... how do you put Woodchuckcanuck on your photos?

I use software to watermark any image that goes online. I've been online since it was just a black screen and text chat rooms. At some point people were using my photos for other purposes (promoting their own product or service). The watermarking put a stop to that. Although a few determined people tried to blur the watermark. They get away with it until I catch them.
 
The scaffold bin worked ...okay.
When I moved it, and set it up again, the end frame ladders were to the front, and I made doors on each side towards the back for better access. Then set up three racks, one on the front and one on each end.
Even with the top narrower then the bottom, splits would jamb up. Pulling splits out to stack created a cavern. I'd use a hook-a-roon to pull a few key pieces loose. When the jamb dropped pieces sometimes shot out the front, making it dangerous. Saved the back, but...
It jammed just like your crate when you opened it up and everything stayed.
 
I have experimented with pallets like Sand has done which does work. Once split the wood can not be in any situation left not stacked. Stacked wood takes less than half the space. About two and a half to one. We do not have an issue here with drying wood out. Thanks
 
I like the ibc totes, just wish they were 6” taller. Customers at my day job beg me to take them off their hands so I have an endless supply. It just takes me 10 minutes or less to get one ready for wood. And best of all they usually have 1/2 to 2 gallons of agchem left in them that I salvage for my farm.

I stack them in a single row and flip them towards the sun half way through summer.


The 330 gallon IBC totes are 6" taller than the 275's. Both have the same footprint. I just bought 20-330's, in an effort to handle my wood less often. (Insert pun here)
 
The 330 gallon IBC totes are 6" taller than the 275's. Both have the same footprint. I just bought 20-330's, in an effort to handle my wood less often. (Insert pun here)
Yea I have a few of them. I don’t know of any Ag chems that come in them though. The ones I get are for DEF that the farmers sneak into my pile to pick up. My dad gets some big ones that deionised water comes in for oilfield. But they are a hot item for people wanting to catch rainwater and stuff since they are clean inside.
I have enough I could start adding a ring and making them taller. They need to hold a face cord cut 18-20” for me to switch all my wood business to them. I have been using them some this year and I’m probably sittin at a 65% return rate now. Probably will be higher long term.
DCE99469-BCD0-4764-BA82-36BF1E21E3DF.jpeg
 
Y’all are making me think the totes to store with a grain elevator to drop into Sandhill’s elevated hopper is the way to go. My wife asked me the other day why I don’t sell wood if I like making firewood so much..... so now I’m brainstorming how to process the most efficiently. I know an arborist that doesn’t haul, is strictly “I drop it safely and walk away”. I’m thinking if I partner up with him to be the haul guy..... I’d have an endless supply of wood to make into firewood...... but then I ask, is it financially viable...


End of the day, you guys all have some great ideas and definitely know how to make my brain start working up some ideas
 
I just make skid crates, 4 skids attached together. My picture is a 1st try back in 2015, now I use all hardwood skids held up with timber locks. My tractor can handle the wood dry but fresh oak had it on 3 wheels once. But this is perfect to move it from the wood shed to the boiler for loading.I have a few old beat up ones that will be for an outdoor burn, to many nails in the boiler ash is a pain .
027.JPG
 

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