the all aussie dribble thread!

[gmax]

The brand was ARTU. German made and relatively hard to find. Like all bits though you have to be careful during break through by whacking some plate at the back. If you let them just come clean out the back of a bar you'll shatter the tungsten tip like glass.
I've also used the tile bits which seem to work well despite only being designed for glass and tiles

Thanks Matt, There's some on ebay

 

[gmax]

Lol $1,085.00 for 7 ARTU drill bits - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARTU-7-P...AU_Tool_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6b3569da

 

[tdi-rick]

I worked on the SINGARS radio for the Army, and that was the origins of CDMA later developed at Qualcomm

I really, ready liked my Qualcom phones, tough, well built and easy to use with excellent range, but CDMA has gone the way of the dodo here. it's either GSM or the variation of CDMA that Telstra use (for higher/faster data rates)



sent from a hand held thingy via magic invisible waves......

 

[ausneil 1]

I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here a bit,,,,, I have been cutting, grooving and drilling bars for many years, that's how we set up our bars for hotsaws, as we run big sprockets.
Never an easy job but done a lot of times.
For the record but, I have never tried to drill out a tip, never even thought about it.

 

[ausneil 1]

Here is another post which is a little bit contradictory to todays 090 talk of last couple of years.

Thanks Wayne,

Nice to see the big mungrel in the flesh as i didn't know they exsisted,
I see current 090's in competition out here in Oz but there not a match for the current saws.

I like watching the Big Stihls get a flogging mind you i have flogged a few myself with my trusty Mac's.

I just wonder if the fellas over your way still run the big capacity 090 in comps ?

Mc Bob.


Funny how things change and not for the better. I have even found a post where he publicly runs our association down because at the time club shirts (husky shirts with the logo and our association name on the back) had to be worn to compete. Bob apologies for being seen in a pic with a Husqvarna shirt on. So the BS was in full cry way back in 2006 so nothing has changed.

One golden unwritten rule in racing is never run down the sponsers of competition and always abide by whatever the organisers require to satisfy the sponsers of the day as without them we don't race.

 

[ausneil 1]

Making out you are somebody on the internet that you're not generally leads to trouble with the Australian Federal Police.
Like that 50 year old bloke who makes out he's a 16 year old guy to a 14 year old girl who's actually a 40 year old police officer...

yea that's true, I bet that sh-t head got a shock as she probably could kick his ass big time not to mention publicly humiliate him before arresting him.
And aren't those blokes popular in jail.

 

[460cixy]

Interesting topic about bar sprockets I guess I'm a knuckle drager too

 

[tdi-rick]

A question for everyone. For those who use bars with grease able noses 1) what grease do you use in your grease gun and 2) does any one work on the theory of grease it once initially then let the bar and cutter lube do the job as not to push dirt into the hole when greasing or grease regularly and risk pushing dirt in

Cheers

I use high temp bearing. Any brand seems to do the job. I grease mine regularly which seems to push grit out. You can feel the grit in the bearing before greasing and after greasing it smooths right out.

It's a funny topic though as I've seen, and no doubt yourself, where absolute knuckle draggers have never greased their bar noses and the sprocket teeth wear down well before the bearing packs it in.

What Matt said, Benny.

Dear old dad had quite a number of old Ampol lithium complex HT wheel bearing grease tubes when I cleaned his shed out and I just use that.

I'd love to use the synthetic CAT grease I have for chassis use, which is a calcium sulphonate based grease with 5% Moly, but;

a) that's getting just too over the top.
b) throwing black moly everywhere is messy, and;
c) it's a waste of an exxy grease !

FWIW calcium sulphonate bases have far better rust and water resistance than any other soap/thickener and I suspect the Moly would work brilliantly on the rails and sliding base of the chain as well as suiting the nose rollers as the platelet size CAT use is sized specifically for roller bearing use, but geez it's messy !


sent from a hand held thingy via magic invisible waves......

 

[tdi-rick]

The dropping point for NLGI 2 grease is 250c, sprocket bearing grease may be higher, I don't know what grade it is.

NLGI 2 grease means it meets a worked penetration conforming to a #2 grease.

The dropping point varies all over the shop depending on the base oils, the soap type (thickener), etc.

sent from a hand held thingy via magic invisible waves......

 

[tdi-rick]

God, I'm missing posts all over the place, I'm guessing poor Tapatalk can't keep up as this thread gets cleaned !

sent from a hand held thingy via magic invisible waves......

 

[windthrown]

A question for everyone. For those who use bars with grease able noses 1) what grease do you use in your grease gun and 2) does any one work on the theory of grease it once initially then let the bar and cutter lube do the job as not to push dirt into the hole when greasing or grease regularly and risk pushing dirt in

Cheers

There are grease holes for the nose sprockets in all of my GB bars, and I use the Husky grease that came with my new pro Husky saws (I have since sold them off). I grease the clutch bearings and nose sprockets on all my saws every time I flip the bars over. I also grease the noses of the non-GB bars (mostly Stihl). Cannot hurt. I have had smaller and cheaper Oregon bars delaminate on me at the nose, and I think it was due to lack of lube. So I am a greaser... ...which is also slang term here in the states for younger guys in the 50s and early 60s that slicked their hair back with gobs of Brylcreem. If you saw one of the best Tommy Hall videos posted here he was a typical greaser, slicking back his hair before starting his chainsaw.

 

[windthrown]

If you grease it once initially you'll be creating a barrier preventing chain oil penetrating the sprocket bearing area.

Not true. The oil and grease will mix, especially when the nose gets hot and the grease thins out. GB pro bars have had nose sprocket grease holes for as long as I have been using them. Some Stihl bars I have also have nose grease holes in them, as well as some other brands.

With the newer low volume oil pumps in a lot of the new Stihl saws (and I mean low volume) I doubt that there is enough oil on the bar to even keep the chain from wearing faster, let alone keep the nose sprocket lubed. Also here in the long bar west, we tend to push the limits on bar length, and I see a lot of long saw bars with bluing on the rails. Typically here the 036/360/361/362 saws were/are sold new with 28 inch bars, and that is too much bar for the stock oilers in those saws (they all have the same pump output). Same with a stock 044 with a 32 inch on them. With short bars you could probably get away w/o greasing the nose, but I grease all my bars anyway. I learned one thing on my many trips to Mexico: more lube (grease, oil or spit) is always better than less. It is simply amazing how long they can get some machinery to last in Mexico. Its similar with old US cars in Cuba. They are still running on a fleet of 1950s US cars in Cuba. Mas aceite esta mejor!

 

[460cixy]

God, I'm missing posts all over the place, I'm guessing poor Tapatalk can't keep up as this thread gets cleaned !

sent from a hand held thingy via magic invisible waves......

Me too rick I'm all over the shop but nothing new there

 

[MCW]

Lol $1,085.00 for 7 ARTU drill bits - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARTU-7-P...AU_Tool_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6b3569da

When I said they're expensive I didn't meant THAT expensive

 

[VinceGU05]

I had this big block saw last week to give it some TLC. It had a grease hole on it so I pumped in a heap of lanotec and spun it up with compressed air. Flushed all the dirt out well and spun freely afterwards.
Just ran the saw for a few minutes to get a heap of oil on the bar and into the chain.


Ps we use those ARTU drills at work too. Used to buy them for 10 to 20 bucks each from a joint in Heidelberg in melb.

 

[460cixy]

I just use me supa cheap drill bits there red hot. Lol well they are after trying to drill a bar lol

 

[MCW]

I had this big block saw last week to give it some TLC. It had a grease hole on it so I pumped in a heap of lanotec and spun it up with compressed air. Flushed all the dirt out well and spun freely afterwards.
Just ran the saw for a few minutes to get a heap of oil on the bar and into the chain.


Ps we use those ARTU drills at work too. Used to buy them for 10 to 20 bucks each from a joint in Heidelberg in melb.

I know I'll be beaten for saying this but those little 2214AV's are a bloody good saw for the price. I sold mine years ago and it's still going strong. It's cut a hell of a lot of wood.

 

[VinceGU05]

I know I'll be beaten for saying this but those little 2214AV's are a bloody good saw for the price. I sold mine years ago and it's still going strong. It's cut a hell of a lot of wood.

good to know.. bore looked brand new. it looks virtually identical to my jonsered 2137. even had to slot the mixture screws like i did on the red so i could the **** thing to run.
that was a great idea to spline the screws instead of slotting them.NOT

 

[460cixy]

Bob Cornwell
Yesterday at 9:02am
Damm I'm having a great start to another day in paradise got chucked off another forum ...... bloody wankers who can't handle the truth

Looks like we are all wankers hahahahahahahahaha

 

[WidowMaker_1]

Bwhahahaha ...lets spam is FB messages