the all aussie dribble thread!

Wesspur
Rugged made
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windthrown said:
Well, never mind the big dudes. Man, that is what I call FIREWOOD! Get out the 660 and long bars, and slice and dice.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corymbia_ficifolia red flowering gum

not a bad burn wood nice to cut sweet to split shame to losses as nice tree when in flower friggen fruit flower nuts a tripping PITA & to rake and add much weight cause of many limb failure
 
MCW said:
Any of the penetrating oils are good then I grease the bolt etc. You can certainly blow some coin on dedicated gun oils if you get sucked in by the hype. Bit like certain synthetic oils in chainsaws :)
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yeah okay cool, i have heard of Auto transmission fluid (ATF) being a popular alternative ...you using any particular kind of grease on your bolts? I just knocked up a cleaning rod from a fishing rod lol, talk about a cheap asss


edit: i believe olive oil was used in the old days
 
WidowMaker_1 said:
yeah okay cool, i have heard of Auto transmission fluid (ATF) being a popular alternative ...you using any particular kind of grease on your bolts? I just knocked up a cleaning rod from a fishing rod lol, talk about a cheap asss


edit: i believe olive oil was used in the old days
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I'm actually using a dedicated Redding grease in a syringe but only because I got it as a present. Any grease is pretty well OK. The old fishing rod eh? Must have been a skinny one :)
 
yeah was a old school 2 piece aussie made fiberglass fishing rod very whippy slow action one ,nice and smooth after i sanded the paint back, it fits threw the .22 with a cleaning patch no dramas .
 
Hi all, got a few quick questions for the panel if I may please.
Finally got the chance to unbox a 511ax grinder that's been gathering dust on a shelf for ages.
Managed to try a chain on it before coming in for dinner, and can't say I'm impressed with a few things, especially how flakey the chains stop seems to be for an uncheap grinder, also, the hydraulic hose had to repositioned or it forces against the chain stop when doing the right cutters.

Anyhoo, ran out of time to have a good look why but the rakers aren't coming out even. Left rakers considerably shorter than right rakers.
Cutter lengths on left and right were out a little too, but 5/8th of bugger all to worry about unless it's related?

So, first question:
any ideas what I should look to adjust tomorrow or tonight after the rugby?
2nd:
How do I get my hands on two dinasaw abn wheels (for 3/8-.404 & .325-3/8LP) without selling myself on the streets to pay for them please? Cheaper by heaps alternative is CBN wheels from diamond wheel inc in USA ( http://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html ) unless you's fellas have any suggestions?

Cheers all.
 
So it's a 511AX auto? There is a very small amount of adjustment as far as cutter angles go. Just loosen the Allen bolts move a bit and retighten - I've never had to do it but a mate who owns a similar business to mine readjusted his every so slightly. You shouldn't be getting depth gauge variations unless your slide isn't set at zero. That's an odd one.
Edge & Engine in the US have pretty cheap ABN/CBN wheels compared to the Dinasaws but Greg Costin at Dinasaw really is a great guy to deal with. He'll do custom wheel profiles and laser engrave your name in the wheel for free. Not cheap though so understand where you're coming from there.
 
MCW said:
So it's a 511AX auto? There is a very small amount of adjustment as far as cutter angles go. Just loosen the Allen bolts move a bit and retighten - I've never had to do it but a mate who owns a similar business to mine readjusted his every so slightly. You shouldn't be getting depth gauge variations unless your slide isn't set at zero. That's an odd one.
Edge & Engine in the US have pretty cheap ABN/CBN wheels compared to the Dinasaws but Greg Costin at Dinasaw really is a great guy to deal with. He'll do custom wheel profiles and laser engrave your name in the wheel for free. Not cheap though so understand where you're coming from there.
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Thanks Matt. Yes, auto clamping model. The slide was at zero. but there's a heck of a difference between l&r rakers. I was trying to grind them to get a 6.5 degree angle from cutter tip to raker. Got it on one side but the other side was just a tad over 5 degrees even though cutter lengths were even. I'm thinking maybe zero on the slider isn't actually corresponding with a perfectly centred chain when clamped?

Also, there's something funky, some oscillation happening in wheel or head somewhere. It's only slight but it's a slow pulsing as if there's play somewhere. Hope i haven't got an expensive lemon. Hope it's just a learning curve to master and then all's good.

I recall emailing Greg ages ago but to be honest, I can't justify those prices, as much as I would like to use those wheels.

Tried the E&E site but it's down at the mo so will check it out later on.
 
Never rely solely on a machine ,the human eye with manual measure will get it perfect ...use the wheel only to 'lightly' hone your edge , checking settings for each side as you go. depth gauges i do on a bench grinder lightly 'Bzzz 'Bzzz done - next depth gauge ,keep it cold and light handed
 
KiwiBro said:
Thanks Matt. Yes, auto clamping model. The slide was at zero. but there's a heck of a difference between l&r rakers. I was trying to grind them to get a 6.5 degree angle from cutter tip to raker. Got it on one side but the other side was just a tad over 5 degrees even though cutter lengths were even. I'm thinking maybe zero on the slider isn't actually corresponding with a perfectly centred chain when clamped?

Also, there's something funky, some oscillation happening in wheel or head somewhere. It's only slight but it's a slow pulsing as if there's play somewhere. Hope i haven't got an expensive lemon. Hope it's just a learning curve to master and then all's good.

I recall emailing Greg ages ago but to be honest, I can't justify those prices, as much as I would like to use those wheels.

Tried the E&E site but it's down at the mo so will check it out later on.
Click to expand...

The oscillation could simply be a wheel out of balance. Also Edge & Engine have apparently stopped internet sales. They'll still sell you gear but you have to contact them first.

Just keep playing with the settings on it and hopefully you can get it setup properly. Once you do it should be fine for good.
 
WidowMaker_1 said:
Never rely solely on a machine ,the human eye with manual measure will get it perfect ...use the wheel only to 'lightly' hone your edge , checking settings for each side as you go. depth gauges i do on a bench grinder lightly 'Bzzz 'Bzzz done - next depth gauge ,keep it cold and light handed
Click to expand...

Not all human eyes. I've seen some shockers :)
 

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