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hey widowmaker, awesome job on them slabs freehand! what sort of chain do you use to rip them? lookin at ripping some fence posts to use on the farm and wondering what setups you guys use.


Hi mate I use full comp .404 .063 semi chisel cutters at 25deg (10deg if slabs for tables) with depth rakers taken down about 4 flat file strokes and rounded off ( from a standard .404 raker height ). your miles will vary depending on saw used as how much you can drop your rakers. Long as your getting a good bite and self feeding your pretty good to go

If im burried deep with more than a 25" bar needed in the wood (36" 42" bars) i sometimes use a modified full comp .404 that has teeth grinded off to help clear the chips. Eg: Leave two cutters ,grind off two cutters, leave two cutters, grind off two cutters ......

Most important is keeping the chain razor sharp with cutter angles all the same deg and same lenghs either side, side to side and well oiled, I handfile with a couple of light honing strokes of the file every refill to keep a razors edge .. as well as keeping depth rakers set low to match the saws torque ... in the 090s case it has buckets off torque with a slower chainspeed which is ideal for long freehand.

I prefer stihl chain but all works if sharp and worked a little for what ones doing.
 
Real chainsaw problem question guys. Sorry.
012av.
Starts normally but really high idle.
Idle screw is out. Plenty of slack on the throttle cable. 4 strokes hard even make it run real fat so it 4 strokes at 8000rpm. Fresh carby kit didn't change at all.
Any ideas please.
 
Hi mate I use full comp .404 .063 semi chisel cutters at 25deg (10deg if slabs for tables) with depth rakers taken down about 4 flat file strokes and rounded off ( from a standard .404 raker height ). your miles will vary depending on saw used as how much you can drop your rakers. Long as your getting a good bite and self feeding your pretty good to go

If im burried deep with more than a 25" bar needed in the wood (36" 42" bars) i sometimes use a modified full comp .404 that has teeth grinded off to help clear the chips. Eg: Leave two cutters ,grind off two cutters, leave two cutters, grind off two cutters ......

Most important is keeping the chain razor sharp with cutter angles all the same deg and same lenghs either side, side to side and well oiled, I handfile with a couple of light honing strokes of the file every refill to keep a razors edge .. as well as keeping depth rakers set low to match the saws torque ... in the 090s case it has buckets off torque with a slower chainspeed which is ideal for long freehand.

I prefer stihl chain but all works if sharp and worked a little for what ones doing.

Thanks mate, i've only got a 365 x-torque with a 3/8 " 20" .050 bar on it, do you reckon it would be worth having a go with the full chisel chain that came with it or would it be better to get a new semi chisel and grind it to 25deg? also i've got a few grey box logs laying around that are a few years old. would these be right to use for posts or a bit hard to cut with the 365?
 
ROB? 3/8 is fine for most things mate, I use it on my 395.. semi and full chiz, If the woods resonably clean and not seasoned over many years the full chiz will work okay youll just have to keep your eye on the leading edge of the cutter and sharpen more often when it burs over the point ..semi will stay sharper longer and has no fine leading point to blunten like full chizel ...65cc should be fine mate if you 'keep it sharp' ... make shore its running on the rich side (4 stroking in the cut) if your got a lot of posts to rip. let it idle between cuts and after cutting to cool down
 
ROB? 3/8 is fine for most things mate, I use it on my 395.. semi and full chiz, If the woods resonably clean and not seasoned over many years the full chiz will work okay youll just have to keep your eye on the leading edge of the cutter and sharpen more often when it burs over the point ..semi will stay sharper longer and has no fine leading point to blunten like full chizel ...65cc should be fine mate if you 'keep it sharp' ... make shore its running on the rich side (4 stroking in the cut) if your got a lot of posts to rip. let it idle between cuts and after cutting to cool down

good stuff, thanks for the tips widow! i've been touching the full chisel up with a couple of light file strokes every second tank or so cutting firewood and it cuts great and seems to hold an edge alright (compared to the 3/8 low profile i've used on my ms210 anyway). i'll give it a go on the posts and see how she goes.
 

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