The Husky 242 XP Challenge! HELP!!!!

[ReggieT]

Picked up this Husky 242XP about a week ago...as you can see no top cover, bar/chain and does not fire up, I've read some really positive reviews on this saw and figured it would be fun to either tinker with or pay an expert to restore.

Some things have transpired that's gonna swallow a ton of my time...so now my dilemma is trying to figure whether to take it to my local Chainsaw guy or would I fare better by finding some Husky Guru's on our site here and entrusting them with the task?:confused2:

Bottom Line: What would a total rebuild cost, if necessary...on an average?
I saw some replacement parts on one site and they were crazy high...

Will you share some of your cutting experiences with me, if you've ever had one of these saws?

Thanks Guys,
Reg



Here are some pics.

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[Steve NW WI]

Bottom Line: What would a total rebuild cost, if necessary...on an average?
I saw some replacement parts on one site and they were crazy high...

Thanks Guys,
Reg



Here are some pics.

Bottom line? If you're paying someone else to do it, just buy a good running used saw instead and save some of your money, or spend the same amount on a shiny new one. This assumes a total rebuild, not just "get this thing running as cheap as possible."

I already told you this on one of the other threads. Unless it's a super rare collector's model, it's just not good economic sense to fix up these old saws unless you're the one doing the work.

Sorry to pee in your Wheaties, but that's the way it is. Buy some tools and dig in, there's lots of help here if you give it a try. If not, someone will likely give you what you paid for those carcasses and you can wash your hands of the deal.

 

[ReggieT]

Bottom line? If you're paying someone else to do it, just buy a good running used saw instead and save some of your money, or spend the same amount on a shiny new one. This assumes a total rebuild, not just "get this thing running as cheap as possible."

I already told you this on one of the other threads. Unless it's a super rare collector's model, it's just not good economic sense to fix up these old saws unless you're the one doing the work.

Sorry to pee in your Wheaties, but that's the way it is. Buy some tools and dig in, there's lots of help here if you give it a try. If not, someone will likely give you what you paid for those carcasses and you can wash your hands of the deal.

Hey...appreciate it Steve. "Getting it running as cheap as possible is not my mindset" either. I do fondly recall you sharing this in another thread...yet curiosity still beckons...and I'd just like to hear somebody share what a total rebuild would or should cost? There's no harm in just asking or knowing.

This is turning into a scenario like perpetually asking the Mechanic how much will it cost to restore my old junk truck...and he blatantly ignores that request keeps pointing me to the Dealership or tells you to grab a Chilton Auto Repair Manual and some tools and get at it Bubba.:bang:

Your words don't fall on deaf ears...and you're not pissing in my Wheaties, neither am I trying to be a wise guy...I'm not offended or deterred in the least.
Perhaps, IF I could EVER hear some dollars and cents on a rebuild...it may prove to be a strong motivator to me putting my mitts on it...but not until then!:rolleyes2:

opcorn:

 

[the westspartan]

The reason no one is answering your question is because it can't be answered until it is taken apart and we can see what needs to be replaced. The whole reason you start from a carcass instead of buying all the individual parts to make a "new" chainsaw is that there are some things in that carcass that will work and some that will not. No one knows until they get into it, and then the prices can vary GREATLY. If you figure paying a man to replace everything that could need to be replaced, plus labor, you may as well buy a new saw, a case of beer and new seat covers for your pickup truck and you would probably still come out on top. You are talking about a restoration and restorations are done because of passion not because of economic sense.

 

[z71mike]

Well, without knowing ANYthing about the condition of the saw, it's impossible to say what work needs to be done and how much time needs to be dumped into it.

To start: 2 hours of work going through everything and testing for failures. Then depending on what is found......could be anywhere from $50-$300 in parts and hours of labor. There's no way to know.

Sounds like you don't need it done any time soon. Take it apart a piece by piece and take your time. Learn something in the process and when it's all done, you'll be proud of yourself. I have a 2-year 046 project still sitting on my bench. No time. No money. It'll get done some day. I have other saws to cut with.

 

[watsonr]

That saw looks like it wouldn't take much.... until its apart. New OEM top ends run $200, pistons around $30-35 and variuos small stuff like fuel line, filter, carb kit, impulse are a few dollars each. Bar and chain, top cover ...

$300 in OEM, Aftermarket cylinder may not be available any longer and if it was, your still around $200 in parts alone.

Now that saw was replaced with the 246/346 and I'm not positive, but some of those parts may work. Either way its a project not worth sending to the dealer for.

NMurph sells the 346XPs for $300 in really good used/reconditioned shape. That is what I'd do if I'm needing a saw I can't/won't do the work myself.

Good luck!

Murph even may make a trade/cash deal for it, of course, contacting him would be the way to go.

 

[excess650]

IIRC, the 246xp top end fits that crankcase, so would be an option when sourcing parts.

I picked up a 242 several years back with "low compression". It was lightly scored, but a complete and decent looking saw otherwise. I pulled the top end, cleaned the cylinder and bought a piston for 242/242xp. It turns out that the new piston had a lower crown height, so I used the existing piston with a new ring, no base gasket, and buttoned 'er up. It runs great, but sits on the shelf and needs a new home(along with some others)....

Like has been mentioned, its hard to say what it would cost without tearing into it and seeing what it needs. The 242xp does have a following, and is a desierable saw. I recall it is revered in a/the Scandanavian country/countries, "legendary".

 

[Jacob J.]

The 242 shares parts with the 246 and that's about it. I'm going through a nice 246 myself and most of the parts are still available from Husky through a dealer.

A new top cover is going to run about $40. Air filter- $18. Gasket set- $12. There's lots of aftermarket engine parts available.
Clutch and drum can be source from other common small Husky saws. I'd rebuild that one if it were me. You can do it.
Just get some simple tools and a service manual and do it. The 242 is a great saw and will be well worth your effort.

 

[watsonr]

The 242 is a great saw and will be well worth your effort.

And if he sends if off, would it still be worth it?

 

[MPE]

Rebuild it or sell it to me as a parts saw/carcass

 

[Brad2185]

238se parts will also swap. its a smaller cc saw, but parts will interchange. I did a 238 bottom end with a 242xp top end and it was fairly straight forward.

 

[ReggieT]

Rebuild it or sell it to me as a parts saw/carcass

HEY!!!!:msp_wink:

 

[ReggieT]

The 242 shares parts with the 246 and that's about it. I'm going through a nice 246 myself and most of the parts are still available from Husky through a dealer.

A new top cover is going to run about $40. Air filter- $18. Gasket set- $12. There's lots of aftermarket engine parts available.
Clutch and drum can be source from other common small Husky saws. I'd rebuild that one if it were me. You can do it.
Just get some simple tools and a service manual and do it. The 242 is a great saw and will be well worth your effort.

Thanks...whats the best place for parts?
Bailey's...Flea-Bay...??

 

[almondgt]

Thanks...whats the best place for parts?
Bailey's...Flea-Bay...??

Remove the muffler and inspect the front of the piston and inspect the rear of the cylinder wall. REPORT BACK & provide pictures of same!

 

[roy wilson]

never really done much research on 242 xp saws , but seen them for sale locally and got a deal on them 1 was running and other 2 were not running one had real good compression and the other was poor but was almost complete other than starter and brake /clutch cover missing , decided to take them all apart and get them running , but not quite there yet ,good thing is they are all original and have Gilardoni cyls and OEM pistons .

Saw 1 1997 xpg taken apart had the generator buggerd with overheating/ shorted ? , one of the wires to the coil was pinched and a bit green on the wire so made a new one to replace also the nylon worm gear stripped due to solidified oil in pump cyl and piston fine but a lot of carbon in there , still original hone marks and machine marks on piston , so gave it a wee tweek with flapdisc and new caber ring to be fitted soon , carb stripped and nothing inside atall , diaphragms and needles all look well , everything else fine , so every part cleaned and checked and will rebuilt soon , crank bearings very smooth , but will do a vac pressure test when put together if crank seals needed , but seems fine, when run before taken apart for inspection runs real smooth and crisp and 4 stroking at full throttle , no bog atall , but will check it anyway , air filter opened up for better flow as it has a tiny opening about 12mm , and muffler baffles ground out as these are heavily restricted too

Saw 2 1994 xpg taken apart , generator looks fine , cyl and piston in perfect condition original hone marks and machine marks on piston , reason it didnt start was due again to damaged coil wire shorting to chassis , clutch and oil pump in real good condition but oil pick up hose is split so will be replaced , carb apart and looks like new , again air filter and muffler modded , also new 5mmx80mm bolts fitted as they are well rusted so 4mm allen key was a a struggle but got them out so so everything else all cleaned up and new ring fitted too and hopefully running well

Saw 3 1997 xpg , again taken apart and cleaned everything , piston was scored on exhaust side and muffler was very light grey inside and checked the H screw and was just under 1/2 turn out so was lean seized , some alloy transfer to cyl but was removed easily , and a nice crosshatch done again with flapdisc , clutch and oil pump all good but again the generator has some issue but can be fixed , the wire has some corrosion where it runs behind the cyl so wire may be repaired once sheild stripped to see fresh copper if its there , both wires broken by pinching by harsh use on the handle but can be repaired as there is about 1 inch protruding , but this saw may just be used for spares as the pull start is missing too and a couple of screws and the caps and a wire removed , so may have been a spares saw

 

[spyder62]

Rebuild it yourself. There’s some great videos out there and plenty of knowledgeable people here on the site! They’re not really that hard and are actually fun to do. Cleaning it is the biggest pain.I’m Looking for another saw to do now. It feels good to fire it up when your done and cut some wood. Good learning experience

 

[Griffdog1]

As has been said, the cost of getting this saw done by someone means this route does not make sense. However doing the work yourself will be both more satisfying in the long term and will likely allow you to have a workable saw quite cheaply. As someone who likes turning boxes of bits into runninging vintage huskies, my approach is:
- Get it clean (take all the covers off and make sure you get the thing as close to spotless as you can. For a saw I am going to rebuild I use oven cleaner and a pressure washer and then blow out with compressed air.
- Diagnosis - check for spark (good if it has it). Remove muffler and check piston and bore (this will give an idea of whether you have a salvageable top end. Make a list of missing parts (these can often end up costing more than what you paid for the rest of the saw).
- Decisions - if it has no spark, a ruined piston and manky bore and is missing parts, even blokes like me will question going further and I have rebuilt some pretty terrible saws!!! The odds improve if it has spark and it looks like I might be able to reuse the original piston.
- Your going ahead - now it is about being meticulous in pulling the saw down. If you can get away without splitting the cases this makes the job much easier but become marginal if you are going to put a lot of time and effort in where new bearings would give you piece of mind and another 20 years of good times. I would be inclined however on your first saw to just do seals unless the bearings are clearly shot. Make sure you have lots of zip lock bags in the go and take lots of pictures, label everything and keep the fasternsers with the bits they were holding on. Clean as you go.
- Cylinder work is about patience and hope. many a shot cylinder has been brought back to life with patient removal of aluminium transfer. This is a really important step that anyone can do and as long as you have no gouging you should be able to get a usable cylinder. Aftermarket piston and rings.
- Plastics respond well to elbow grease - it is not time effective but you can do amazing things with plastics if you are patient and willing to have a crack.
- None of the above is for the faint hearted, easily distracted or easily discouraged. The end of the process will give you a usable saw that you have revived with your own hands however and this is hard to quantify.

If you look at the above and think "thats not within my level of capability" then you are really best to head the advice that has been given and see the saw you have as a parts saw. If however you are feeling brave....

 

[pferdfiler]

IIRC, the 246xp top end fits that crankcase, so would be an option when sourcing parts.

I picked up a 242 several years back with "low compression". It was lightly scored, but a complete and decent looking saw otherwise. I pulled the top end, cleaned the cylinder and bought a piston for 242/242xp. It turns out that the new piston had a lower crown height, so I used the existing piston with a new ring, no base gasket, and buttoned 'er up. It runs great, but sits on the shelf and needs a new home(along with some others)....

Like has been mentioned, its hard to say what it would cost without tearing into it and seeing what it needs. The 242xp does have a following, and is a desierable saw. I recall it is revered in a/the Scandanavian country/countries, "legendary".

There is no 246xp and a 242xp is a kick ass saw cept for the PTO bearing is like finding gold