cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice, rwoods. Depending upon your starting technique, you may want to rotate that starter clockwise one set of holes.
The Kart Engine Thread
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I've been waiting at least a week for somone to notice but I guess the other MAC guys have drooled on their monitors so much they missed it. I can't help but wonder if this was done on purpose for racing where you begin with starting the saw. Or maybe the Seller had the foresight to know that my felling skills aren't the best so he adjusted the sights for me. Ron
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ambull
OCD Muscle Saw Collector
I noticed right away, but who am I to tell you how to start your saw. Just by aesthetics it would look better, as the rotation would straighten out the embossed logo. I actually like starting mine on the ground, with one foot on the handle. Mine doesn't have compression release, so I really have to grunt and pull. At your angle a ground start is a bit easier.
promac850
formerly promac610
My technique would love that set up too... I usually have the saw on the ground too. I can see how on a beast of a saw like that with monster compression would be more favorable to start on the ground... sure, the logo isn't exactly in the right place, but it looks like it would be easier to start clocked that way.
In the end, it's up to you and how you start it. If it's more comfortable on the ground, the way it is now will be best, if you are crazy enough to drop start it and dip the bar tip into the ground, then clocking it so the logo looks perfect would be the way to go.
In the end, it's up to you and how you start it. If it's more comfortable on the ground, the way it is now will be best, if you are crazy enough to drop start it and dip the bar tip into the ground, then clocking it so the logo looks perfect would be the way to go.
I plan to line it back straight. This is just how it was pictured on eBay and received by me. It sure made the compression testing easier though. Ron
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah it'd be great for the comp test, but, for me anyway, would suck for starting. I prefer to prop it up on a stump, log, picnic table, whatever when I start and more of a pull back than up. It's easier to operate the throttle and choke controls when starting.
101B - what is the mix ratio? From some MAC materials furnished me it appears to be 20 to 1. No mention of MAC oil which in saw manuals usually is stated at 1/2 the non MAC oil mix. Thanks, Ron
You can go with 40:1 if you're using a high quality oil. The last running kartsaw I had I ran 32:1 w/Silkolene.
Thanks
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been doing some looking around, and are there any major differences between the various 101 models that make one more or less desirable for kart saw builds?
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great question Brian. One I've considered as well. So far as I can make out, the "b" certainly is the most plentiful and therefore perhaps most desireable because the die-hard collectors/racers are after the rarer ones...
Although, as plentiful as the "b"s are, finding an unmolested example is quite a challenge. Lot's of them seem to be boogered, ported, or both.
Although, as plentiful as the "b"s are, finding an unmolested example is quite a challenge. Lot's of them seem to be boogered, ported, or both.
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was talking with another member and he was saying he thought something about the mounting holes on the 101aa woundnt work for saw purposes. In my research I havnt found any major differences though. I was thinking the blocks themselves were pretty much the same.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't know if you've seen this chart on the known differences. McCulloch Championship Kart Racing Engines .............
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
That what I was looking at, and I dont see any major differences. As far as I can tell it looks like they are all pretty close.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't want to run afoul of the mods for this, so you guys will have to google the place yourselves, but you can save a little time and shopping when rebuilding Super 44A/55A, 1-70/80, 1-71/81, and 1-72/82 saws by buying a bearing and seal kit for the bottom end and a gasket kit for the MC-10 that will get you the inner stuffer gasket, head gasket, and intake gaskets (some of which may not work for the saw induction tract) all in one shot. Also applies for the kartsaw guys with 91s and 101s... I did order a gasket kit for my 101 build, cheaper than individually on feebay.
It is strictly a kart supplier, they don't mess with saws or OPE.
I thought it was handy, so I'm passing it along.
It is strictly a kart supplier, they don't mess with saws or OPE.
I thought it was handy, so I'm passing it along.
terry2tmd
ArboristSite Operative
Just subscrideing this is great stuff!!!!!
The original 101's had the removable boost ports and the pistons did not have the large cutout for the boost port. The rod also was different with the 9/16ths wrist pin but the later piston and rod will work. The rest are pretty much the same except some of the 101c's and d's were chrome bore I think but not sure on that.
