The last little bit

[Preston]

I have a small problem I would like input on if you folks don't mind.

As I've been splitting lately, the 22 T Huskee stops the cylinder about an inch or so before the plate on the end. that little bit has turned into a pain in the bunns to finish splitting. As you know if the plate was on the bore it wouldn't be an issue. I know it has to stop of break, but what do y'all do that have my setup with the last little bit that need splitting? The worst I've run into lately is the white oak. It's almost to the point where I have to keep a hatchet to cut the wood fibers that just won't turn loose. I've worked the split to the point it pulls the splitter around.

What do the wise ones do?

 

[Fifelaker]

I welded a slip on plate for mine. Before that I used a 3"-4" cookie to take up space you need to cut it about 1/4"-1/2" shorter than the wedge to foot gap.

 

[TonyK]

I just do the Huskee back off flip and finish routine.

 

[cnice_37]

Pad it with a scrap or cookie. Extends your foot a bit further... just not so far you hit the wedge.

 

[zogger]

I have a small problem I would like input on if you folks don't mind.

As I've been splitting lately, the 22 T Huskee stops the cylinder about an inch or so before the plate on the end. that little bit has turned into a pain in the bunns to finish splitting. As you know if the plate was on the bore it wouldn't be an issue. I know it has to stop of break, but what do y'all do that have my setup with the last little bit that need splitting? The worst I've run into lately is the white oak. It's almost to the point where I have to keep a hatchet to cut the wood fibers that just won't turn loose. I've worked the split to the point it pulls the splitter around.

What do the wise ones do?

Nice chunk of board. Had to do that a lot when using the boss s splitter here.

 

[turnkey4099]

All splitters stop short of the wedge whether that be on the beam or the ram. For the few pieces that don't split, back off and stick a chunk of wood behind it.

I have seen homebuilt designs where the wedge goes into a gap in the middle of the foot plate.

Harry K

 

[Fred Wright]

Use a short green round, about the diameter of your ram foot height as a push block. If a round or split don't bust clean, back off the ram far enough to lay the pusher round on the beam and press on.

When splitting gum, this is pretty much a necessity. I keep one beside the splitter when I'm working. A green round won't break or deform as easily as say, a block of dry lumber. I tried 2-bys and 4-bys, they'd splinter and break. Especially if the ram forces it into the wedge.

 

[Preston]

Thanks y'all. I just happen to have one of the the oak rounds about 2 " think by the splitter now. Perfect.

 

[blacklocst]

So heres my set up, I can fit a 24" split in my stove but don't cut to that size any more because its a pain to get pieces that size to fit into the stove. So now I cut to 20" and if I'm a little long with the size it still fits, and with a shorter round in the splitter I can just put on another round and it pushes that last bit of wood through.

 

[Mac88]

On my homemade splitter, the ram goes right up to the wedge. You might get a business card between the two. I've considered welding a couple pieces of 1x1 bar stock on either side of the ram to push the split beyond the face of the wedge.

 

[chaikwa]

AI have seen homebuilt designs where the wedge goes into a gap in the middle of the foot plate.

I've considered welding a couple pieces of 1x1 bar stock on either side of the ram to push the split beyond the face of the wedge.

The vertical pieces on either side of the space where the wedge ends up at the plate is the correct way to do it, but you won't see it on most commercial splitter due to the potential liability of someone stuffing their finger in there.

 

[Mac88]

The vertical pieces on either side of the space where the wedge ends up at the plate is the correct way to do it, but you won't see it on most commercial splitter due to the potential liability of someone stuffing their finger in there.

With all the liability issues I'm surprised anyone makes log splitters, or chainsaws for that matter. A big part of what you pay for anything goes to cover potential liability lawsuits.

 

[zogger]

With all the liability issues I'm surprised anyone makes log splitters, or chainsaws for that matter. A big part of what you pay for anything goes to cover potential liability lawsuits.

My boss was telling me it (liability cost) is something like 40 grand added to the cost of a new small entry level airplane today, like a little cessna..

 

[chaikwa]

My boss was telling me it (liability cost) is something like 40 grand added to the cost of a new small entry level airplane today, like a little cessna..

15 years ago, I was in the fabricating business. We primarily made small fire trucks, rebuilt older ones of all sizes, and sold new class A pumpers, tankers and aerials. We also made custom heavy equipment trailers and specialty forestry equipment. Almost 10 grand a month went for product liability alone. We figured once, that we had to work until December 1st to make all our expenses for the year and in essence, we had 30 days to turn a profit. We were a very small company and I suspect the high expenses are why you see small companies either going out of business or getting real big.