The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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So spit out a price and stop being like those Ahole fire wood peoples that Peeslayer is in love with.
400 without the top end ,its actually in pretty good shape still ,has west coast wrap ,and ho oiler stock ,has 4 point dogs too ,plastics are pretty clean still ,i keep it inside
 
So the block cut face reduces fiber pull?

The primary functions of a block face are, to aid in directional control, and to hold the tree on or near the stump.

Reducing fiber-pull is achieved by cutting your hinge off once the tree commits, or it can happen with a really thin hinge in species with brittle fibers, or in dead wood.
 
it did on the beech, I think really it just gave more flex and therefore more time to cut thru the hinge. it did break off clean tho.......not so on the sweet gum. it just wants to pull, mind you they were big and big topped on the lean side. you could tie a sweet gum in a knot, it won't break. I hate to say it but so far jumpin seems to be the best way to not pull on a gum like that. your results may vary and i'll try some different things next time I come to some.
 
When I was a kid and learned to cut we did a downward notch then a back cut this was the 70s then in 06 I met this man in school with a square filed saw named Soren and he taught us to bore cut the back cut. It gives you a nice narrow hinge and is safer.
 
you talkin bout GOL, yea it is a way but I have tried that a few times.....it just ain't my cup a tea. not sayin it not good, just sayin I don't particularly care for it but that just me. I have face bored plenty and I prefer that for leaners and splitty things. gum jus a bit weird, it don't like to break. prolly more of it in the south than anywhere but I bet they mostly jump it.
 
He was teaching what the comp ins co call CLP but it's the same guy and it's the same as GOL. Trust me a lot of choppers have took the class and still cut the same as they did 20 years ago. No gum here.
 
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