The Ozzy Redgum tree from hell......

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Funny you say that Matt i may have got onto another one but this one is perfect for milling,but i need a bigger mill with myne i can only cut 31'' wide.I think this one could be a good test for one of your 660 BB kits,i have gor HD2 filters to try next time as well.:msp_smile:
 
Funny you say that Matt i may have got onto another one but this one is perfect for milling,but i need a bigger mill with myne i can only cut 31'' wide.I think this one could be a good test for one of your 660 BB kits,i have gor HD2 filters to try next time as well.:msp_smile:

cant wait to hear how those hd2 filters do with redgum dust.
 
so what is the best filter money can buy, is it the stihl hd?

Stihl MS261, Stihl HD2 for the 440-880, and my favourite the Dolmar HD. I like the Dolmar setup more because the 7900's aren't air injected and they suck in less fines. As far as the actual filter material goes the 3 mentioned are all excellent against super fine wood dust :cheers:
 
Cool thank's Matt. I have used the standard Stihl filter's here, until recently in this thread or another had heard of the hd, just recently. I guess I am ok not as much fine stuff. I wonder on the huskie's if you can disable the air injection for cutting in fine dust situation's? The Dolmar's do look like an outstanding saw!!:msp_thumbup:
 
Cool thank's Matt. I have used the standard Stihl filter's here, until recently in this thread or another had heard of the hd, just recently. I guess I am ok not as much fine stuff. I wonder on the huskie's if you can disable the air injection for cutting in fine dust situation's? The Dolmar's do look like an outstanding saw!!:msp_thumbup:

Unfortunately the air injection is basically an integral part of the saw's design. Disabling it or bypassing it would take some major changes - not impossible but in all honesty not really worth it. In the case of the Stihl HD2 filters the fact that the air injection pumps in more fines means little as they'll keep them at bay by the look of it. Unfortunately though with the larger Huskys you have to oil their filters to keep out stuff like Redgum dust which means they get dirtier faster :(
 
Matt, the 'air injection' system is in MHO nothing more than an advertising gimick. I had to block off my injection system because the mods I made to the engine were flowing a lot more air into the engine - that was air that wasn't going over the cylinder fins. In other words, I was making the engine produce more heat at the same time I was removing cooling air for the fins.

I used some silicon sealer to block it off and then drilled two openings at the rear of the cover over the rear handle. The reduction in engine heat was significant, the plug went from white to brown with the same mixture setting.

First off, the research Timberwolf did in regards to the air injection system was that the compression of the air over the flywheel fins increased the heat of the inducted air in the engine - that is less air density for producing power. TW indicated that he had seen an increase of up to 10F in the temperature of the air off the flywheel.

Second, I immediately noticed less trash and dust in the 'air box' after making the mod.

It wasn't until I had to cut up a burnt stump that had lots of charcoal on it that I realised the dynamics of what was happening. The front of the saw had charcoal dust all over it - that dust continued back and was sucked into the front of the flywheel housing. The black coating clearly indicated where the flow of light dust was going.

As you know, the air injection system is fine for taking out the big chunks, but allows the fine dust to be inducted into the air box. What people don't realise (and I do now) is that the air injection system actually sucks extra dust into the flywheel housing - which then gets sucked into the air box.

If I ever buy another saw with an 'air injection' system, one of the first mods I will make is to block it off.
 
Matt, the 'air injection' system is in MHO nothing more than an advertising gimick. I had to block off my injection system because the mods I made to the engine were flowing a lot more air into the engine - that was air that wasn't going over the cylinder fins. In other words, I was making the engine produce more heat at the same time I was removing cooling air for the fins.

I used some silicon sealer to block it off and then drilled two openings at the rear of the cover over the rear handle. The reduction in engine heat was significant, the plug went from white to brown with the same mixture setting.

First off, the research Timberwolf did in regards to the air injection system was that the compression of the air over the flywheel fins increased the heat of the inducted air in the engine - that is less air density for producing power. TW indicated that he had seen an increase of up to 10F in the temperature of the air off the flywheel.

Second, I immediately noticed less trash and dust in the 'air box' after making the mod.

It wasn't until I had to cut up a burnt stump that had lots of charcoal on it that I realised the dynamics of what was happening. The front of the saw had charcoal dust all over it - that dust continued back and was sucked into the front of the flywheel housing. The black coating clearly indicated where the flow of light dust was going.

As you know, the air injection system is fine for taking out the big chunks, but allows the fine dust to be inducted into the air box. What people don't realise (and I do now) is that the air injection system actually sucks extra dust into the flywheel housing - which then gets sucked into the air box.

If I ever buy another saw with an 'air injection' system, one of the first mods I will make is to block it off.

Hi Terry.
I agree it is nothing more than a gimmick and I've mentioned this before. When you see the Husky vs. Stihl videos where guys are shovelling handfuls of chips into the starter housing at full noise it looks impressive - in real life it isn't that simple. Quite the opposite in fact. I know a number of guys who have cut stuff like dead Redgum and removed the filter covers on their Stihls and Huskys and have noticed the filter stays cleaner for a lot longer - they generally don't even know why funnily enough! I hadn't seen Timberwolf's info but I'm not surprised at all :cheers:
 
I put one of thoses new HD2 filters on my 460 yesterday and cut green and dry sugar gum,with the old HD filter they have that band of felt around the filter to catch the larger particals.I noticed at the top of the HD2 filter the fan type element was full of dust,so the crap at the top settles in the fan folds and cant get out.So over a days cutting the top of the filter will become full of crap so loosing its abillity to allow air into that part of the filter.
 
I put one of thoses new HD2 filters on my 460 yesterday and cut green and dry sugar gum,with the old HD filter they have that band of felt around the filter to catch the larger particals.I noticed at the top of the HD2 filter the fan type element was full of dust,so the crap at the top settles in the fan folds and cant get out.So over a days cutting the top of the filter will become full of crap so loosing its abillity to allow air into that part of the filter.

Thats similar to the Dolmar HD filters mate but there is heaps of airflow left. I've found the crap reaches a point on the Dolmars where it doesn't tend to get any worse no matter what you chuck at it :)
 
A couple of pics from today cutting up the second redgum.

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holey snappen duck sh1t andrews got a bar on a stihl and it aint orange :msp_thumbsup:

bugger it's ya mates saw isn't it
 
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