The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[piglosi]

I recently got an old Mac 10-10 automatic at a yard sale for 15 dollars, had it running in about 5 minutes after getting it home. Is it worth keeping around, or should I try to market it? I've put a new plug in it, but the boot is very loose. I also am looking to find a new brake handle, as this one is aesthetically messed up, but the only ones I am finding are 70+ dollars, and I am not looking to spend that much on a saw I got for 15 dollars. The video is it running right after I got it, all I did was pump the old fuel and dumped some fresh 40:1 in it. Any input would be appreciated!

I’d keep it. Take it apart and clean it up. Prime and paint it so it lasts another 20 years. Personally I ditch the chain brake and look for a simple clutch cover. Nice 10-10

 

[lohan808]

Hey if you don't want it I would take it off your hands for $30 plus shipping

 

[Redbarn19]

I’d keep it. Take it apart and clean it up. Prime and paint it so it lasts another 20 years. Personally I ditch the chain brake and look for a simple clutch cover. Nice 10-10

Thanks, i noticed it seemed pretty solid, lot of metal especially compared to my ”newer” large saws (262XP, MS261C). Might get around to priming/painting some day, although i don’t really plan on running it that hard or that much, as i got a lighter saw that won’t kill me for that reason, and the wear kinda gives it character haha. Do you know what a period correct clutch cover would look like/cost? I don’t know much about McCulloch saws, the only covers I could find that match are 80+, and I really can’t justify that on a saw I got for 15 bucks.

 

[Redbarn19]

Hey if you don't want it I would take it off your hands for $30 plus shipping

Awww I don’t think so haha, plus it looks kinda nice sitting on the shelf amongst with the other dinosaur lol.

 

[piglosi]

Thanks, i noticed it seemed pretty solid, lot of metal especially compared to my ”newer” large saws (262XP, MS261C). Might get around to priming/painting some day, although i don’t really plan on running it that hard or that much, as i got a lighter saw that won’t kill me for that reason, and the wear kinda gives it character haha. Do you know what a period correct clutch cover would look like/cost? I don’t know much about McCulloch saws, the only covers I could find that match are 80+, and I really can’t justify that on a saw I got for 15 bucks.

Looks like this. They are getting hard to find affordable in usable condition.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Actually, the chain brake version looks like this. And depending on what the issue may be with the existing brake handle, it may be fairly easy to service..., or maybe even easier to just find another saw for parts with a little searching.

​

 

[Redbarn19]

Actually, the chain brake version looks like this. And depending on what the issue may be with the existing brake handle, it may be fairly easy to service..., or maybe even easier to just find another saw for parts with a little searching.

View attachment 1116822​

Hi, thanks for the input. My brake looks exactly like that and is 100% functional, however, it is very ugly. Part of the brake handle appearance is mangled quite badly, and it would require some fabrication at the least (there is a chunk of metal missing on the left end of it). I was hoping to find just the handle, as I could swap it, but I can only find the whole cover w/ handle (which I might just buy at this point, they are 80+ though). All the parts saws I am finding are significantly more expensive than the amount I paid for mine (eBay has them at 120+, I paid 15 dollars haha). I also would probably end up attempting to fix the "parts" saw and have two mangled messes to deal with. I also might put a new top handle, as that is also beat up pretty bad, and those are fairly cheap online. I serviced the saw and everything is functional (needs a tune, haven't gotten to it), its mainly appearance issues (an impressive amount of electrical tape on handle, broken brake handle, etc).

 

[Redbarn19]

Looks like this. They are getting hard to find affordable in usable condition. View attachment 1116802

Got it, thanks!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The brake handle itself can be had for $30-$40. JB Weld may be your friend filling in the bad spots on the one you have. A little sanding, a little grinding and a shot of Rust-O-Leum Sunburst yellow and it's like new. (Now that would be ugly on that saw. LOL)

Or just appreciate the patina.

 

[piglosi]

Cutting firewood with the ol 54cc Mac. 24” bar and skip chain. Not the fastest, but doesn’t stop.
View attachment IMG_1178.MOV
View attachment IMG_1178.MOV

 

[Redbarn19]

The brake handle itself can be had for $30-$40. JB Weld may be your friend filling in the bad spots on the one you have. A little sanding, a little grinding and a shot of Rust-O-Leum Sunburst yellow and it's like new. (Now that would be ugly on that saw. LOL)

Or just appreciate the patina.

Haha, sadly this handle is missing a massive chunk of metal, the left end is completely broken off so the top and bottom sections arent connected on that end. I am currently not with the saws so I cannot send a better picture, but you get the idea. It does run however, so thats a bonus. Do you know where I can get the brake handle? 30-40 sounds much better than 70-80.
Pictures are before I cleaned it, I promise I didn't leave it like that.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Do you know where I can get the brake handle?

There are a few variants that will fit. Here's all you need to know to shop around. Perhaps @heimannm may have one (or ten) available?

https://randysengine.repair/products/brake-lever-mcculloch-chainsaw-part-91251a-91251-01
BTW, welcome to the club.

 

[heimannm]

91251 fits the short clutch covers (SP style). 215911 or 93076 fits the long clutch covers (PM style). My notes say 215916 is an alternate PN for 93076 which would be the PM style cover, but I can't find that PN listed in any of the IPL's. It is possible that 215916 was a replacement part only.

You can use the PM style handle on the SP models, but the pin for the brake arm is larger diameter on the PM so the SP style brake handle won't fit on a PM saw. Unless you have both brake bands in hand and compare the loop where it attaches you would not know there was a difference. Bobby Framke alerted me to the differences and bought several of the SP style handles a couple years ago.

My inventory says I have a few NOS and used 91251 brake handles (lever assembly) on hand. I have a larger supply of 215911...

Mark

 

[Redbarn19]

There are a few variants that will fit. Here's all you need to know to shop around. Perhaps @heimannm may have one (or ten) available?

https://randysengine.repair/products/brake-lever-mcculloch-chainsaw-part-91251a-91251-01
BTW, welcome to the club.

Thanks! Will this just direct fit mine? I don’t know much about McCulloch, nor their part cross references, I’ve mainly run Stihl. The eBay link I posted looks exactly like the one I have, would the one you sent fit? (I’m in college so I didn’t bring that saw with me haha). Thanks again!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3749288084...c_1htdxqea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Redbarn19]

91251 fits the short clutch covers (SP style). 215911 or 93076 fits the long clutch covers (PM style). My notes say 215916 is an alternate PN for 93076 which would be the PM style cover, but I can't find that PN listed in any of the IPL's. It is possible that 215916 was a replacement part only.

You can use the PM style handle on the SP models, but the pin for the brake arm is larger diameter on the PM so the SP style brake handle won't fit on a PM saw. Unless you have both brake bands in hand and compare the loop where it attaches you would not know there was a difference. Bobby Framke alerted me to the differences and bought several of the SP style handles a couple years ago.

My inventory says I have a few NOS and used 91251 brake handles (lever assembly) on hand. I have a larger supply of 215911...

Mark

Hello, attached is an eBay link, I’m not familiar with McCulloch parts nor styles, as I’ve run/worked on mostly Stihl. That part looks identical to the one I have, not sure on cross reference with this particular saw, as I’ve never really worked with them before. Thanks!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3749288084...c_1htdxqea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[heimannm]

There are really only two styles of clutch covers with brakes for the 10 Series saws, the long cover that uses the brake arm with the larger pin, and the short cover that uses the arm with the smaller pin. There is one variant of the long cover with a bump out to clear the muffler on the PM800/805/8200/DE80 models but the brake parts are just like the other long covers.

As I noted earlier, there are two different brake arms, the SP arm will work on the PM (long) covers but be a little sloppy with the smaller pin in the loop of the brake band. The PM style arm will not work with an SP (short) cover. The illustration in Randy's ad shows a short cover.

Mark

 

[piglosi]

Does anyone here have experience with the Red barn 10-10 top end kits? Are they any good, reliable, or should I be looking at OEM? I have a tired 10-10 I’d like to overhaul with rings and seals this winter.

 

[heimannm]

Do not use the LRB wrist pin, they are too small and do not press into the rod properly. If you have to resort to the LRB piston (OEM are getting scarce) reuse your old wrist pin.

I put together a PM650 with an LRB piston and it was about 0.0005" smaller out of the box than the good, used piston that was in the saw. The saw does run and cut but not as well as a thin ring PM610 in good condition.

Mark

 

[piglosi]

Do not use the LRB wrist pin, they are too small and do not press into the rod properly. If you have to resort to the LRB piston (OEM are getting scarce) reuse your old wrist pin.

I put together a PM650 with an LRB piston and it was about 0.0005" smaller out of the box than the good, used piston that was in the saw. The saw does run and cut but not as well as a thin ring PM610 in good condition.

Mark

Thanks Mark. Yeah I read somewhere you mentioned the wrist pin size. I’m gonna keep looking for a piston, rings, and pin. I’ve never done a Mac top end yet. Do you have to use a press to remove the wrist pin or will it come out with a punch?

 

[heimannm]

I have a small arbor press so that's how I do it. You could do the same thing in a large vise I suppose. I have never tried to press one out with a punch but I expect it would be a very tough job that way. If you don't have a press or large enough vise, consider making a tool to press the pin out and back in again.



Mark