Warped5
WingNut
That's a good looking 10-10A there ...
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
x2! Real fine looker. I bet it cuts well.
SteveinUT
Have gun, will travel
Thanks! Yeah, took me a bit to get it oiling properly, but now it's good to go. It came from an estate sale and was literally like new when I got it. It was stored with the gas tank empty, but the oil tank was full of sludge. I had to clean it out, along with the pumps and run a good bit of diesel through it to clean out the oiling passages and lines, but it's one of my favorite saws.
Wow that's a clean 10-10! I wouldn't want to burn it up either. Or loan it out!
SteveinUT
Have gun, will travel
Well, when I say "loaner to family", I mean my son. He takes good care of my tools, or he knows he won't touch them again.
prink3
New Member
Hey guys, I've been lurking here off and on for years. Tons of great info, thanks. I have question, and hope this is the right place. I have a PM10-10s that I 'm rebuilding due to a scorched piston and cylinder. The saw as my dad's, and I received it in a box a few years ago. I came across a reasonable deal on a PM700 cylinder (214671) and after reading multiple sites and comparing the IPL's I decided to try the rebuild with the bigger 70cc cylinder. Most every forum reference I found said it should work and most of the parts are interchangeable. I retained the 10-10 crank, but got the clutch side bearing with the large bushing around it. The powerhead when together well. I made some plates and vacuum tested it, every looks good to go.
When I went to install the handle/carb base/lower fuel tank section I ran into a problem. I used the thermal isolation spacer with a gasket on either side, at the carb throat, but the bolt under the throttle rod and the one up thru the oil tank tensioned up before the base sat all the way down tight. Now I am missing the 69772 spacer at the oil tank bolt, but it just looks like a flat washer, and it was tight at the handle bolt with about 3/16" gap at the oil tank. I measured the space between the starter cover screws, and determined that the oil tank bolt needed to be nearly tight for everything to fit.
So I removed the handle/fuel tank base, and measured across the two cylinder, and the handle/fuel tank base. There is a little over 1/8" difference at the intake for the two cylinders, when measuring from across the oil tank and handle bosses (I had to use the flywheel key to get the straightedge to clear everything. The IPL's calls for the same thermal spacer and gaskets. Here are a few picture of where I measured the external difference in the cylinders. Does anybody know if the handle/fuel tank bases are different from a PM700 to a PM10-10s? Is the intake throat thicker on a 10-10?
Thanks,
Mike
PM700 cylinder, 1/4" allen wrench for reference
When I went to install the handle/carb base/lower fuel tank section I ran into a problem. I used the thermal isolation spacer with a gasket on either side, at the carb throat, but the bolt under the throttle rod and the one up thru the oil tank tensioned up before the base sat all the way down tight. Now I am missing the 69772 spacer at the oil tank bolt, but it just looks like a flat washer, and it was tight at the handle bolt with about 3/16" gap at the oil tank. I measured the space between the starter cover screws, and determined that the oil tank bolt needed to be nearly tight for everything to fit.
So I removed the handle/fuel tank base, and measured across the two cylinder, and the handle/fuel tank base. There is a little over 1/8" difference at the intake for the two cylinders, when measuring from across the oil tank and handle bosses (I had to use the flywheel key to get the straightedge to clear everything. The IPL's calls for the same thermal spacer and gaskets. Here are a few picture of where I measured the external difference in the cylinders. Does anybody know if the handle/fuel tank bases are different from a PM700 to a PM10-10s? Is the intake throat thicker on a 10-10?
Thanks,
Mike
PM700 cylinder, 1/4" allen wrench for reference
I cannot answer your question exactly, but I do have two different thickness of those insulators in my parts stash. My IPL's show 84079 used on the 10-10 (54 cc) and 10-10S (57 cc) with 84080 used on the 7-10 (72 cc). I am not at home so I can't look at the parts to tell you which is thicker and which is thinner.
If is very possible that you need the different insulator.
Mark
If is very possible that you need the different insulator.
Mark
prink3
New Member
Son of a gun, I got distracted by 84078 and that's the diagonal shaped insulator that goes between the carb and the handle. I just ordered a 84080 insulator, and from the picture, it does look much thinner. Thanks Mark!
tigerrider11
ArboristSite Member
Nice early 70's mac 10-10 auto... i think is is my favorite era of the 10 series
If you think the 10-10 is nice, try an SP81 or PM850, they are the most impressive in the 20 Series line up.
Mark
Mark
tigerrider11
ArboristSite Member
My '77 PM700
tigerrider11
ArboristSite Member
Here's the mac 10-10 with its younger (and very good running) pro-mac 10-10 brother
tigerrider11
ArboristSite Member
Got 'er runnin pretty good, early 70's mac 10-10 auto - 20" bar 3/8 full comp chain
Finally got off my butt and ordered some 3/32 square o-ring from McMaster Carr to try and seal the gas tank on my Pro Mac 10-10. I was not making much progress on sealing the old cork gasket in my gas tank. A little Hondabond finished off the job. No leaks or weeping. Now the 54cc trio are soon to be in action. Pro Mac 10-10, Homelite XL12 and 330. All 16" bars, 3/8" & 60dl. All were freebees. Here is my 10-10. Starts easy, runs good, LOUD
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Have a link to what you bought from McMaster-Carr?
buna-n is my first try
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#9700k11/=z82oo4
if using E-10 then viton may be better
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#2542t21/=z82pq8
razor blade cut approx 17-1/4" super glue the joint.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Thanks for the info. I have a few 10-series saws to seal up and am not looking forward to cutting cork gaskets...
There were a few casting burrs that I had to clean up and with a large flat X-fine file smoothed the cover face that would touch the rubber. It was not perfect but the hondabond finished the job. Been ooutside today cutting with it. wow loud and heavy. Full 2 lbs more than either homelite.
You mean to say 2 pounds stronger don't you?
Mark
Mark
1st time to post other than a coupe of replys--but I've spent hours reading the forum! When I found thr unofficial 10-10 forum, I just had to say a few words!!
I'm the original owner of a PM 10-10 purchased in the last half of the 70's, and the 2nd owner of another PM 10-10 (originally owned by my father-in-law). Mines cut many cords of firewood--heated with wood while living in Michigan in the 80's. The one from my FIL for sure hasn't been used much, probably no more than a couple gallons fuel! Neither have been run, only started a few times since the mid 90's. After reading all of the unofficial 10-10 forum, decided to get them out and see what I had! My 1st thought was how hard the starter was to pull compared to my smaller Echos (246, 370, 271t), the Husky 345, and my recently accquired from my brother--Stihl 260pro.
Both saws started after a few pulls, mine with all the hours on it ran great, the other needed a little carb adj, both now run great--wow are they loud!! Fuel tanks leaked on both, cork gasket in several pieces on mine--repaired both with Seal-All. Was totally surprised by how much dirt was in tank of mine--and I thought I was fanatical about fuel! The one with little run time was spotless, but fuel line was extremely stiff.
I've bought air filters, fuel lines, fuel filters, and carb kits--hopefully my grandson will appreciate these saws when I pass them down!
Thanks to all the helpful info from the many posts--especially how to repair the tank.
At age 70, I mostly use my saws to assist with disaster relief, we do tend to have a few storms in middle Tennessee where I now live!
I'm the original owner of a PM 10-10 purchased in the last half of the 70's, and the 2nd owner of another PM 10-10 (originally owned by my father-in-law). Mines cut many cords of firewood--heated with wood while living in Michigan in the 80's. The one from my FIL for sure hasn't been used much, probably no more than a couple gallons fuel! Neither have been run, only started a few times since the mid 90's. After reading all of the unofficial 10-10 forum, decided to get them out and see what I had! My 1st thought was how hard the starter was to pull compared to my smaller Echos (246, 370, 271t), the Husky 345, and my recently accquired from my brother--Stihl 260pro.
Both saws started after a few pulls, mine with all the hours on it ran great, the other needed a little carb adj, both now run great--wow are they loud!! Fuel tanks leaked on both, cork gasket in several pieces on mine--repaired both with Seal-All. Was totally surprised by how much dirt was in tank of mine--and I thought I was fanatical about fuel! The one with little run time was spotless, but fuel line was extremely stiff.
I've bought air filters, fuel lines, fuel filters, and carb kits--hopefully my grandson will appreciate these saws when I pass them down!
Thanks to all the helpful info from the many posts--especially how to repair the tank.
At age 70, I mostly use my saws to assist with disaster relief, we do tend to have a few storms in middle Tennessee where I now live!
