The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[heimannm]

I didn't stay here long, I don't actually remember who ended up with it.

Keeping the 10-10 theme, my local lumberyard/hardware store gave me this Pro Mac 10-10 when the local Stihl shop could not fix the recoil starter. Note the custom AF knob and the generous layer of sawdust.



Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I didn't stay here long, I don't actually remember who ended up with it.

Keeping the 10-10 theme, my local lumberyard/hardware store gave me this Pro Mac 10-10 when the local Stihl shop could not fix the recoil starter. Note the custom AF knob and the generous layer of sawdust.

View attachment 551417

Mark

At least it has a chain brake on it. I seldom see those except on the 10-10S models.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I have several 10-10s. If you look at Bucking Billy's chain it is a skip tooth chain, makes it a lot easier to pull thew the wood and I bet he is a master sharpener. I could see either of my PM 10-10 pulling that. They are very good saws. I have cut with people that at first laugh at my "Old timey saws" that wind up wanting to try it after I out saw their new saws. The PM800 will surprise you how well it cuts and how smooth it cuts. I use my Power Mac 6 a lot. For a small saw it cuts really well. That 1/4 inch chain is small enough that it cuts very fast. This weekend I was cutting some 12 inch locus with the 14 inch bar and it done a fine job. Very lite, easy to use and starts on first pull even when cold. One of my PM 10-10s has a chain brake and the other does not.

 

[sykesja]

Hello All,

Need a little help please. I have lurked here for a while, but this is my first post. I picked up a right hand start Mac 10-10 off of CL today and I can't get it to fire. There is no tag by the carb so I have no idea its model number. It has spark but when I dribbled gas down the throat of the carb still no fire. I ran a compression test: first pull ~75psi, second pull ~100 psi, third and fourth pull ~120psi. Pulled the carb and muffler no scoring on the piston. Is it possible the ignition timing has "slipped" ? Also it has a CJ8 spark pulg in it, the database on acresinternet says it needs a ac cs45t which crosses to a dj8j, can the wrong seat design cause the compression to "leak" by the spark plug? Any help is appreciated.

James

 

[fossil]

I doubt the model of plug you have is the issue but the plug may be bad. Sometimes they don't fire under compression but do fire outside of the saw. Try changing it out. If that doesn't work pop the flywheel off and make sure the key isn't sheared. If it's a points saw clean them by running clean piece of paper through them several times and set the gap (0.018") while you have the flywheel off. The lamination gap to flywheel magnet gap (0.008" - 0.012") can be set with a business card.
Generally if t has spark and you put some mix though the carb it should fire if the compression is high enough.
I generally check compression with at least 6 pulls but the saw should run at 120 psi.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I don't think you mentioned if it had spark or not. that would be the next thing to check. Pull the plug out, put the wire back on it and lay it on the metal part of the saw and crank it over and see if the plug fires. If it doesn't then you go into the ignition system. That's usually what it is on the older saws.

 

[sykesja]

Thanks for the replies. If you take out the plug and ground it, it is has spark. I swapped a spark plug from a running saw, but it still didn't run. I have plans tomorrow to pull the flywheel and check the key. Will also check the point gap. Was trying to figure out if the flywheel nut was lefthand thread before i went any further.
James

 

[fossil]

The nut on the flywheel is a RH thread so counter clockwise to loosen.

Check your inbox for a link to a repair manual.

 

[sykesja]

Thank you

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I would guess yours has points so if the flywheel hasn't slipped it can still be out of time if the points are set too narrow or too wide and it will still have some spark.

 

[heimannm]

You may need a bit more prime, then hold the throttle open while cranking.

Make sure the screen in the muffler is not blocked completely.

Mark

 

[sykesja]

Thanks for your help. I think found the issue. The insulation on the plug wire has deteriorated and the coil needs replaced.

 

[astnmacgto]

Thanks for your help. I think found the issue. The insulation on the plug wire has deteriorated and the coil needs replaced.

Well, the coil may not need replaced, I could be wrong but mcculloch supplied a coil wire kit by it self, I have a couple but idk if they are for 1010

 

[sykesja]

I noticed while looking for a coil that some of the newer coils for electronic ignition had a replaceable coil wire. But the ones for the points seem to be one unit. Still researching it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I guess you could always cut the coil wire close to the coil and splice in a new one as a last resort..

 

[fossil]

I noticed while looking for a coil that some of the newer coils for electronic ignition had a replaceable coil wire. But the ones for the points seem to be one unit. Still researching it.

Give it a good twist counter clockwise. It should come out. The points saw were early and the IPL's show a PN for the wire. If you can't find a MAC replacement, one from something else should work.
Not sure if you are familiar with the coils but there is a barb in the wire hole on the coil that has threads on it. Fast pitch like barrel rifling so the wire screws in and out. They look a bit like an ardox nail.
Not a huge fan of redneck fixes but it you do get it out, you can put some shrink tube over the wire and put it back in to make sure you have the issue nailed.

 

[sykesja]

Well according to the service manual if the lead is damaged to replace the lead. Going to try it. going to be interesting to get the lead unepoxied from the coil.

 

[fossil]

They generally used a sealer to keep moisture out. It shouldn't be epoxy. It thnk if you replace it, a little silicone sealer where the wire enters the coil wouldn't hurt.

 

[sykesja]

An update and a big thank you for everyone's help. Changed the plug wire tonight and she finally fired. So on to the carb rebuild and new fuel lines etc. Once again thanks. James

 

[astnmacgto]

An update and a big thank you for everyone's help. Changed the plug wire tonight and she finally fired. So on to the carb rebuild and new fuel lines etc. Once again thanks. James

Yeah buddy!