Thanks for the info WS, that does help my decision.
Stony please don't take offense, but if a router/strait bit run along a strait edge got you straiter edges than your jointer, there was something misaligned or defective on your jointer. Maybe the outfeed not alligned with the knives? That would give you an untrue edge among other things.stonykill said:I CLAMP THE ANGLE IRON TO THE BOARD TO BE TRIMMED, USE A STRAIGHT BIT ON MY ROUTER, AND RUN THE ROUTER UP AGAINST THE ANGLE. FOR ME THIS GETS STRAIGHTER EDGES THAN MY JOINTER EVER GOT
none taken, but I find it difficult to feed a 10 foot long board thru a jointer and keep it perfectly straight the entire way. also I find my way faster, one pass and I'm done.I always look for the fastest way, its the only way to make a living.:rockn:woodshop said:Stony please don't take offense, but if a router/strait bit run along a strait edge got you straiter edges than your jointer, there was something misaligned or defective on your jointer. Maybe the outfeed not alligned with the knives? That would give you an untrue edge among other things.
I find it difficult to feed a 10 foot long board thru a jointer and keep it perfectly straight the entire way.
woodshop said:.................
I agree that the shaper is the most dangerous machine in a woodshop. Very unforgiving (not that most other power tools are). Tons of power concentrated in a little shaper cutter spinning thousands of rpms. Catch a knot the wrong way, or feed the piece without any hold downs or featherboards, and you potentially have a wooden "bullet" fired from your machine at over 100 miles per hour. ............
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Marc1 said:A drum sander would probably do a good job on raw sawn boards but they don't come cheap and they need a real good vacuum system. I would still go for an old obsolete one ton 25" museum piece with the longest possible table.
Sawyer Rob said:You really don't need a "sled" to straighten boards through the planer without a jointer. It helps to have a tablesaw though
Just lay the board on a flat surface, and then saw (on the TS) two strips from a STRAIGHT board that are a little wider than your crooked board and just as long.
Lay the strips along each side of the crooked board and hot glue them to the board holding the board from rocking.
When you plane the board the feed rollers/cutter head will ride on the strips and plane them along with the high spots off the board.
Rob
Good point stonykill... I too have a hard time getting a long board through my jointer. Gets unwieldy and tough to keep on the same plane from one end to the other even on my 8 inch Grizzly. In that case I agree an angle iron/router approach would work better. Then I guess the problem in my shop would be finding a perfectly strait angle iron, or any strait edge that long that was truly strait.stonykill said:... but I find it difficult to feed a 10 foot long board thru a jointer and keep it perfectly straight the entire way. also I find my way faster, one pass and I'm done.I always look for the fastest way, its the only way to make a living
stonykill said:none taken, but I find it difficult to feed a 10 foot long board thru a jointer and keep it perfectly straight the entire way. also I find my way faster, one pass and I'm done.I always look for the fastest way, its the only way to make a living.:rockn:
So marc1... down in Austrailia they call a jointer a planer? Curious what do they call a thickness planer then?Marc1 said:Yes a long board particularly if wide an heavy is not easy to plane on your own on the jointer ( actually called planner )
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