I was using the Shinny bottle as a precise measuring tool, Ken
Thinking of trying amsoil saber
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I was using the Shinny bottle as a precise measuring tool, Ken
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have used Amsoil Saber with zero problems at 80:1 in a whole hot summer with zero problems in modded 660's and 361 and other saws. Zero problems. My saw builder got nervous and wanted me to at least run it at 50:1, but after the fact he tore the saws down after several seasons just to look at them and not one saw had anything wrong with it, in fact they were very clean and beautiful inside with lotsa blue oil all over the place in all the bearings and running down the piston skirts. I have some saws that have either never had a sparkplug replaced or maybe one in its lifetime with me because we were bored or something, and just thought we should, all start and run fine.
I started running the 80:1 after I was picking some up from the dealer in Fenton, MO and there was a landscaper there that had a poulan that had run on 100:1 for the last 13 years as has all of his weed eaters and other saws, and he has never replaced one for wearing out, and he was buying boxes and boxes of the Saber when I was there, so I figured if it can keep a Poulan running problem free for 13 years, imagine how long a Stihl would run on it. So far so good with that theory.
At 80:1 there is a film of blue oil on the side of the piston after you shut the saw off and look through the muffler with a light. At 50:1 there is a lot of blue oil running down the side of the piston, I can't see the need for running anymore oil than that, it has nothing to do with being cheap after buying a $1,000 saw, it has to do with ........ whats the point??
At this point if I am low on Saber at the gas station and I end up with a 70:1 or 66.666:1 ratio, I just pour it in and run it with no worries. I shoot for 50:1 and if it doesn't happen and I'm under about 80:1, I just go with it, it makes me no difference.
There are people with more in saws and equipment running Saber at 100:1 and they have no problems, who am I to say its wrong or incorrect? If the manufacturer says it can be done, and they have spent millions in research and have a warranty or guarantee and reputation to back it up, then its probably pretty sound that it can be done with fine results.
Bear in mind that no matter the ratio of oil, its no substitute for proper tuning, you can't just lean the heck out of the saw just to make rpms and expect the oil to save it.
Read enough of these oil threads and you will soon find that after or beyond the basic 40-50:1 ratio, a lot of it is just someone's feelings ........ they feel that 16:1 is what they need or 30:1 or 25:1, when the moral of the story is there are those with hundreds and thousands of hours on saws that are tuned God knows how, that are still running fine with crap gas and who knows what other problems, or better yet, run by employees, which can ruin almost anything, these thousands of saws are running 50:1 and have been for many years and many hours, so beyond that its just someone's feelings that they "need" 20:1 or whatever other weirdo ratio or hocus pocus oddball oil. I get Saber because its cheap (for me I think I pay about $8/quart) and has almost no smoke or is certainly the least amount of smoke of any oil I have used, and my engines are the cleanest they have ever been with using it, so whats not to like. I make an order and its shipped to my door or the dealer lives by my brother so I get it there.
Another thing, its blue, its really blue, typically you won't wonder if the gas is mixed or not. Its either blue or it isn't with Saber, unlike Mobile 1 or Royal Purple or this new Red Stihl stuff, which they are changing back to a dark blue color (so I heard).
Amsoil Saber, its cheap, its good, its easy and at almost any ratio from 100:1 to sub 40:1 if you burn up a saw its your fault.
Thats my take on Amsoil Saber,
Sam
I started running the 80:1 after I was picking some up from the dealer in Fenton, MO and there was a landscaper there that had a poulan that had run on 100:1 for the last 13 years as has all of his weed eaters and other saws, and he has never replaced one for wearing out, and he was buying boxes and boxes of the Saber when I was there, so I figured if it can keep a Poulan running problem free for 13 years, imagine how long a Stihl would run on it. So far so good with that theory.
At 80:1 there is a film of blue oil on the side of the piston after you shut the saw off and look through the muffler with a light. At 50:1 there is a lot of blue oil running down the side of the piston, I can't see the need for running anymore oil than that, it has nothing to do with being cheap after buying a $1,000 saw, it has to do with ........ whats the point??
At this point if I am low on Saber at the gas station and I end up with a 70:1 or 66.666:1 ratio, I just pour it in and run it with no worries. I shoot for 50:1 and if it doesn't happen and I'm under about 80:1, I just go with it, it makes me no difference.
There are people with more in saws and equipment running Saber at 100:1 and they have no problems, who am I to say its wrong or incorrect? If the manufacturer says it can be done, and they have spent millions in research and have a warranty or guarantee and reputation to back it up, then its probably pretty sound that it can be done with fine results.
Bear in mind that no matter the ratio of oil, its no substitute for proper tuning, you can't just lean the heck out of the saw just to make rpms and expect the oil to save it.
Read enough of these oil threads and you will soon find that after or beyond the basic 40-50:1 ratio, a lot of it is just someone's feelings ........ they feel that 16:1 is what they need or 30:1 or 25:1, when the moral of the story is there are those with hundreds and thousands of hours on saws that are tuned God knows how, that are still running fine with crap gas and who knows what other problems, or better yet, run by employees, which can ruin almost anything, these thousands of saws are running 50:1 and have been for many years and many hours, so beyond that its just someone's feelings that they "need" 20:1 or whatever other weirdo ratio or hocus pocus oddball oil. I get Saber because its cheap (for me I think I pay about $8/quart) and has almost no smoke or is certainly the least amount of smoke of any oil I have used, and my engines are the cleanest they have ever been with using it, so whats not to like. I make an order and its shipped to my door or the dealer lives by my brother so I get it there.
Another thing, its blue, its really blue, typically you won't wonder if the gas is mixed or not. Its either blue or it isn't with Saber, unlike Mobile 1 or Royal Purple or this new Red Stihl stuff, which they are changing back to a dark blue color (so I heard).
Amsoil Saber, its cheap, its good, its easy and at almost any ratio from 100:1 to sub 40:1 if you burn up a saw its your fault.
Thats my take on Amsoil Saber,
Sam
zogger
Tree Freak
Quite a testimonial and that's *cheap* for mix oil. You guys about got me convinced to try some now.
Almost 2 pages and not a single fault about this oil. That says something. My Stihl dealer does not recommend this oil. He also does not sell it!! He states stihl ultra is so good it will make other OPE brands run better and last longer.
himiler
If I wake up . . . it's a good day.
This and many other similar style of questions have been around longer than this website. Go to the stickies below and read all you want. I spend time on "Bob is the Oilguy dot com site a lot, pretty interesting reading as to why a syn oil can be used at the higher mix ratios, once I understood I didn't have any concerns with mixing to a higher ratio. Remember, there are some anecdotal discussions about how the 100:1 mix level has shown scuffing and accellerated wear. I personally mix Amsoil at 75:1 and a small dose of Amsoil Quickshot with premium gas on all daily use pro saws and have had no concerns at all.
Steve
http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/148248.htm
Should I use synthetic oil?
Links: 1 (cost), 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (switching an older saw to synthetic), 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
"Special" oils: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Should I use fuel additives?
Links: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
Steve
http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/148248.htm
Should I use synthetic oil?
Links: 1 (cost), 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (switching an older saw to synthetic), 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
"Special" oils: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Should I use fuel additives?
Links: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
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I've seen the result of running 100:1 in a 441. It never seized, but you could see how hot it had been. I've also heard of other OPE not surviving the lack of lubrication. It's good oil, but I would never risk my equipment with that little lubrication.
Me too.
I've been looking to switch brands, I going to give this a try. I'm still staying around 50:1 though.
himiler
If I wake up . . . it's a good day.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/54429.htm
That little "Stickies" thing is something I use frequently. I'm just too old or brain limited to remember it all.
Brad has demonstrated a working knowledge of saws to a level that I'll never have as do many on this site. Nice for the rest of us to be able to benefit.
Now if I could just get over voiding the warrantee on that new Stihl 201t . . .
Steve
mt.stalker
ArboristSite Guru
How does this amsoil smell ?
SierraWoodsman
ArboristSite Guru
Good point on the Color Slamm.
I receintly switched from Redline racing syn @ 50:1 to Amsoil Saber 50:1, mostly due to the color, but also for the rave reviews it gets on this site.
I somtime's would question myself (w/Redline) as I poured what looked like straight gas
into those expensive saw's. Now with the very blue tint I never have to question myself.
Now I sleep better at night.
I receintly switched from Redline racing syn @ 50:1 to Amsoil Saber 50:1, mostly due to the color, but also for the rave reviews it gets on this site.
I somtime's would question myself (w/Redline) as I poured what looked like straight gas
into those expensive saw's. Now with the very blue tint I never have to question myself.
Now I sleep better at night.
FixNstuff
ArboristSite Lurker
To be clear to anyone reading this thread, it should be noted that all synthetic oils are not created equally. This thread is about Amsoil Saber and it should not be taken that that means another "synthetic" oil will perform the same way.
I'm not saying that there aren't other good synthetics but you need to do your homework on whichever brand you choose. Especially if you plan to run at 1:100.
Reading for those interested:
Synthetic
Is Your Synthetic Motor Oil Really Synthetic
Which are true(!) PAO (Class IV) Motor Oil brands? - Bob Is The Oil Guy
You can Google PAO Oil for all you want to read.
I'm not saying that there aren't other good synthetics but you need to do your homework on whichever brand you choose. Especially if you plan to run at 1:100.
Reading for those interested:
Synthetic
Is Your Synthetic Motor Oil Really Synthetic
Which are true(!) PAO (Class IV) Motor Oil brands? - Bob Is The Oil Guy
You can Google PAO Oil for all you want to read.
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stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have been using amsoil since I started playing with saws. I have a few saws that I have rebuilt with new pistons and the pistons still look new with no carbon. I really don't know how to describe the smell. I guess it smells kind of like burning plastic or something.
Amsoil comes in many differant types. There lower class fluids are a blend (grp 3)...The higher end stuff is PAO and ester based.
You will not have issues with Saber if used correctly. Can you use at 50:1, sure,but 100:1 is 100% fine.
himiler
If I wake up . . . it's a good day.
If you're saying that you have no problems using Saber at 100:1, then great! If you're recommending that I use it at that lean of a mixture, then I have concerns. I use my saws to make a living and for that reason I must ere on the side of caution and educated advice. If another or others on this site recognized for their experience in saws recommend against it, then at worst I use a bit more oil than necessary, no harm no foul. But if on the other hand I burn up one or more saws, then I'm doing worse than losing money, I can't even make it, and all over probably less than 25ml of oil per gallon.
Trust me when I tell you to review the STICKIES.
FixNstuff
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm aware of what Amsoil is. If you reread my post you'll see that I'm referring to synthetic oils in general.
I use Amsoil in everything and will contiinue to do so. However, they used to be very clear about their use of PAO base stock but have now switched to wording very similar to what Mobil 1 used when responding to the question in their FAQ. ( I just checked the US Mobil 1 site and they no longer even mention PAO based oil.)
From the Amsoil website:
Their answer is ambiguous at best. As to which of their oils are PAO based, do you have a link to confirm your statement?
Where is the dealer in Fenton. I might like to try some and I work in Fenton everyday across from the old Chrysler plant.
Thanks,
racer1970
ArboristSite Member
What about Amsoil Dominator? it is designed for racing, high heat and load rpm etc. and is designed to mix at 50:1
has anyone used this oil? i wonder if it would be better at the 50:1 over saber ?
has anyone used this oil? i wonder if it would be better at the 50:1 over saber ?
himiler
If I wake up . . . it's a good day.
Stick with Saber. It's formulated specifically for 2 strokes and has a long track record.
I've been just as guilty as the next guy going lockpoint on fuel additives, mixtures, or whatever else may fascinate me at the time. Truth is, a sharp homeowner chain running on a cheap Poulan Wild Thing with cheap mix with regular gas and no name bar oil beats out a pro saw with the most researched and expensive oil, gas, additive, and synthetic bar oil but with a dull chain.
I'm just sayin what's been said in another way from the ways it's already been said. Got that?
Steve
I've been just as guilty as the next guy going lockpoint on fuel additives, mixtures, or whatever else may fascinate me at the time. Truth is, a sharp homeowner chain running on a cheap Poulan Wild Thing with cheap mix with regular gas and no name bar oil beats out a pro saw with the most researched and expensive oil, gas, additive, and synthetic bar oil but with a dull chain.
I'm just sayin what's been said in another way from the ways it's already been said. Got that?
Steve
StihlyinEly
Addicted to ArboristSite
All my handheld 2-strokes run Amsoil Saber. In my snowmobile and outboard boat motors I run Amsoil Injector. I depend on all these motors for a living. Nuff said.
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sbhooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have used Amsoil in all kinds of equipment and vehicles for many years. I will not run petroleum or semi-synthetic in any motors. Full synthetic is the only thing that goes into my engines.
Amsoil Saber is formulated for small two-strokes. Some others will work, but there is no reason not to used the one that is recommended, as it is the best. Before there were several different formulations, it was just called 100:1. I used the oil at 100:1 for years and my old 256 Husky still has 145 pounds of compression. It will work at 100:1, but there again, the expense is so minimal that it is just as easy to run it at 50:1. There is absolutely no reason to run it richer than that, though, as you are just wasting oil at that point.
Amsoil is one of the few products that I have ever seen that is exactly what it is advertised to be. In fact, the ads are actually conservative compared to what it can do. Another dealer knew a guy years ago that ran the premix in a 2-cycle racing dirt bike at a 125:1 ratio and ran it for an entire season without touching the engine.
The standard oils are just as good in big vehicles, also.
As was stated earlier, all synthetics are not created equal. Amsoil was the first on the market and is still in the lead as far as wear resistance and other issues.
A semi-synthetic is a joke. To be listed as semi-synthetic, an oil only has to have ONE PERCENT synthetic oil in it. Either use petroleum and save money or go for the best, but ignore the semis.
Amsoil Saber is formulated for small two-strokes. Some others will work, but there is no reason not to used the one that is recommended, as it is the best. Before there were several different formulations, it was just called 100:1. I used the oil at 100:1 for years and my old 256 Husky still has 145 pounds of compression. It will work at 100:1, but there again, the expense is so minimal that it is just as easy to run it at 50:1. There is absolutely no reason to run it richer than that, though, as you are just wasting oil at that point.
Amsoil is one of the few products that I have ever seen that is exactly what it is advertised to be. In fact, the ads are actually conservative compared to what it can do. Another dealer knew a guy years ago that ran the premix in a 2-cycle racing dirt bike at a 125:1 ratio and ran it for an entire season without touching the engine.
The standard oils are just as good in big vehicles, also.
As was stated earlier, all synthetics are not created equal. Amsoil was the first on the market and is still in the lead as far as wear resistance and other issues.
A semi-synthetic is a joke. To be listed as semi-synthetic, an oil only has to have ONE PERCENT synthetic oil in it. Either use petroleum and save money or go for the best, but ignore the semis.
