Thinking of trying amsoil saber

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For Reals? 3 damn pages and not one single mention of Gary-Goo

you guys are slippin :wink2:

I thought of that but honestly Gary's Goo and Saber are the only two mix oils that I will use. Except that when I use Gary's Goo I find that I don't have to use bar oil because his mix oil is that slippery, just point the exhaust down at the bar.

Sam
 
Who's Goo?

Just Curious as to what it cost's you guy's for a slippery quart of this fabled "Gary's Goo".
I'm just a guy that want's the very best for his saws..ya know.:msp_tongue:
 
If you're saying that you have no problems using Saber at 100:1, then great! If you're recommending that I use it at that lean of a mixture, then I have concerns. I use my saws to make a living and for that reason I must ere on the side of caution and educated advice. If another or others on this site recognized for their experience in saws recommend against it, then at worst I use a bit more oil than necessary, no harm no foul. But if on the other hand I burn up one or more saws, then I'm doing worse than losing money, I can't even make it, and all over probably less than 25ml of oil per gallon.
Trust me when I tell you to review the STICKIES.

No, I am saying lots of people use it at 100:1 since THAT is what it was designed for. If Amsoil had lean piston issues etc, it would be all over the net. Mfg most times are outdated on Amsoil spec etc. Heck, I still have Kubota telling me synthetic you cannot extend oil changes. So now a group 5 (ester) is in the same boat as chinamart grp1??? LAMO

I don't sell there products but did in the early 80 to 90's...If you use it at most per gallon, great. But that same mentality, would be even more is better? Just saying use the product as it was designed for.

I have 2 stihl saws, 2 backback blowers and 3 weedeaters (all 2 cycle) and no issues since the stuff came out. And use, I use the above items to make play money..
 
I'm aware of what Amsoil is. If you reread my post you'll see that I'm referring to synthetic oils in general.

I use Amsoil in everything and will contiinue to do so. However, they used to be very clear about their use of PAO base stock but have now switched to wording very similar to what Mobil 1 used when responding to the question in their FAQ. ( I just checked the US Mobil 1 site and they no longer even mention PAO based oil.)

From the Amsoil website:


Their answer is ambiguous at best. As to which of their oils are PAO based, do you have a link to confirm your statement?

But Amsoil does not only use PAO so what make it an issue? Amsoil is better in my eyes then Mobil. Call Mobil CS and they are a joke. Call Amsoil Tech Service and get a real answer.

Mobil copied Amsoil back in the day and stopped. Then stated again. That lost creditability in my eyes. For my own engines, I have done UOA on all for over 15+ years. Plus I talk to people at Cat, Allison, tribologist and some others. Just saying.

PS. BITOG site is okay at best since when Bob owned it was way better. New owner, is lacking; aka why do you think they lost some sponsers (and 1 great one)!
 
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Just Curious as to what it cost's you guy's for a slippery quart of this fabled "Gary's Goo".
I'm just a guy that want's the very best for his saws..ya know.:msp_tongue:

108493d1252546222-garygoo-jpg
 
But Amsoil does not only use PAO so what make it an issue? Amsoil is better in my eyes then Mobil.

Don't get me wrong, I like Amsoil better than Mobil 1 too.

What bothers me is that Amsoil used to be very clear about their use of PAO base stock. Now they aren't. Whether they are going the same route as Mobil, Castrol and a host of others producing "synthetic" oil from mineral base stock is unclear. The initial reason we paid a premium price for synthetic was due to the high cost of producing the PAO base stock.

Then Mobil and Castrol used lawyers to get the definition of "synthetic" changed to include highly refined mineral stock which is cheaper to produce. It's still very good but it isn't PAO which is arguably still the best. The result is that now we have a plethora of "synthetic" oils that really aren't true to the original designation. In fact, calling an oil synthetic is largely left up to the company marketing it.

Note that in Germany and other countries synthetic really has to be synthetic. This current definition is a North America marketing scheme.

I'm just disappointed that Amsoil has removed PAO from their advertised descriptions. I like to know that when I'm paying for the best I'm actually getting it.

If someone can provide current information about Amsoil's use of PAO base stock, it would make me feel a whole lot better.
 
BITOG site is okay at best since when Bob owned it was way better. New owner, is lacking; aka why do you think they lost some sponsers (and 1 great one)!

Got any other sites you go to that compare? I would be interested.
Steve
 
My boss got me using it 3 years ago. I mix it 50:1 and like the way that you don't have hardly any smoke from it. Took apart my little Husky 350 and it was very clean and had plenty of oil everywhere. He uses it 100:1 in his Echo weedeater for the last 6 years and has never had any issue. He changes his oil in his honda with Amsoil once a year which is around 12 to 15k and it is over 250,000 miles on it and never had any engine issues. I won't switch back to anything else after using it now.
 
Don't get me wrong, I like Amsoil better than Mobil 1 too.

What bothers me is that Amsoil used to be very clear about their use of PAO base stock. Now they aren't. Whether they are going the same route as Mobil, Castrol and a host of others producing "synthetic" oil from mineral base stock is unclear. The initial reason we paid a premium price for synthetic was due to the high cost of producing the PAO base stock.

Then Mobil and Castrol used lawyers to get the definition of "synthetic" changed to include highly refined mineral stock which is cheaper to produce. It's still very good but it isn't PAO which is arguably still the best. The result is that now we have a plethora of "synthetic" oils that really aren't true to the original designation. In fact, calling an oil synthetic is largely left up to the company marketing it.

Note that in Germany and other countries synthetic really has to be synthetic. This current definition is a North America marketing scheme.

I'm just disappointed that Amsoil has removed PAO from their advertised descriptions. I like to know that when I'm paying for the best I'm actually getting it.

If someone can provide current information about Amsoil's use of PAO base stock, it would make me feel a whole lot better.

Wondering how was Amsoil really ever clear on their PAO basestock? Also why are you stuck on the POA (group 4) use? I would care more about there percent use of esters (better then PAO) and adds more. It is really a complete mix of an oil that makes or breaks it.
Amsoil has grown a lot since I started using it 30 years ago. They are trying to get into markets that are based on cheaper oils; hence, the OEM fluids which are group 3.
For me, I could care less on POA etc since only a UOA will tell what you are getting and how it is performing. I remember back in the day when high ZDDP was the end all and over 12 TBN meant it would last forever! LOL.

Call their tech line. I know several guys there and very good.
 
I know the Sabor is great mix oil and use it in everything, all my Echo blowers, trimeres etc. get 80:1 and my saws get 50:1.

If you wanted more ester base in it I am thinking you could add a few percent of turbine oil to your mix as turbine oil is 100% ester and also burns real clean.... I have thought about doing that for the newer cheaper saws that are known for scuffing piston and cylinders. You can find turbine jet oil at your local airport at average $12 a quart
 
Amsoil - It just works.

Been running Saber at approx 75:1 in my 3 Huskies, 2 Shindaiwa trimmers, and any other 2 stroke that has crossed my path all with outstanding results. I'll also run some Quickshot here and there depending on usage and if the fuel will be sitting at all as an anti-ethanol stabilizer.

I don't run Saber for my 'job' engines and only do treework on the side. However, I run Amsoil in my marine engines, which my income depends on. First experience was with HP Injector about 12 years ago in an old Evinrude looper. Holy crap results. Ran cooler, smokeless, started easier and actually idled properly (probably the first time in 20 years). Since, I've run the 2 and 4 stroke oils in everything I own. 4 Stroke marine analysed well and recommended longer change intervals. Truck engine and drivetrain throughout, extended intervals 12month on the truck b/c I don't do 25K/yr. Truck also analysed very well.
Also run Amsoil in the dirtbike, snowblower, lawnmower, generator, you name it.

So far so good so i'm sticking by it.
 
I just talked to the guys at Amsoil tech about what 2 stroke oils they have that contain ester.... and I was told they all do. including Saber Pro. I also inquired about running the Dominator over the saber at 50:1 and was told there would not be much difference though the Dominator would be best used at 50:1 and not Saber as Saber is not really designed to run that rich. He also said for the best high load lubrication the dominator would be best...

Just though I would pass on the info
 
I now run saber at 100/1 in all of my saws new and old with great success. Very clean engines.I also add the recommended amount of amsoil quick shot.
 
Most of my 2-strokes are bought used. Many of them have been pretty fouled with carbon deposits. Several tanks through them with Saber at 50:1 and premium non-oxy fuel (a good combo of cleaners/detergents) and they clean up really nice. Like they've been drinking cheap bar pour whiskey and I convert them to Laphroaig and they sit up and say: "Holy ####! I didn't know it could feel this good to RUN!!!" :D :D
 

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