Thinking of upgrading my wood furnace, asking opinions.

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The only concern I see with the install is the lack of a clean out in the rear of the furnace .in my experience Flaky stuff will accumulate there and you'll have periodically disassemble that to get to it or it will plug especially if your wood is only half seasoned . I have a tee on mine and it is recommended in the book to have one if you set it up this way

Can you post a pic how yours is hooked up in the back flotek? Thanks
 
I did that on purpose flotek.

The stove pipe is screwed together well, except that the thimble can be removed from the chimney and the pipe can be slid from the back of the stove. When it's time to clean it out I just bump the stove foreword about 2 or 3 inches and the stove pipe will come right out.

It's a bit more work but I think I can do a better job. On my old furnace I used to use this time to clean out the top of the firebox, I'm sure this one will be similar.
I have mine hooked up pretty much the same as you but mine goes to the side. I have it like that so I can pull my pipe off to clean my liner easily because I run a brush up the chimney that is hooked to my drill.
 
Does anyone here know how they are with a short flu, done some homework on barometric dampers but everything I've come across, they only speak of 30' chimneys, and from what I've read this stove requires a baro damper
 
All metal, singlewall inside the house, then triple outside, 6" about 11' tall total height
Yeah, you won't need a baro on that one! You'll have the opposite problem, not enough draft, which a baro won't help with at all. Any chance of adding a couple more sections of pipe on there? 15-16' chimney is about a minimum height on most (not all) wood burners.
When you say 11', that is from the stove (furnace) height to the chimney cap?
 
From the top of the other elbow out the back, to the cap, I've thought about adding a couple sections of single wall, just to see if it would help my current stove before spending for the pricey triple wall, but haven't done it yet
 
And make another penetration through the wall and rehang the chimney?
 
No mines through the roof, I was talking about adding a couple sections on top just to see if there was enough draft increase to justify $50 a foot for triple wall before I buy it
 
From the top of the other elbow out the back, to the cap, I've thought about adding a couple sections of single wall, just to see if it would help my current stove before spending for the pricey triple wall, but haven't done it yet

If you want to go real cheap just to try it out, just use regular plain steel black pipe. That's about the cheapest you will get. Even though it will rust, it should last one winter, heck, that's all I ever used in my cabin in Maine and thinking about it, it lasted five winters. Yep rusty, still worked.
 
I actually have 10' since my dad put tile under his stove, and he put new in, its one of those projects on the list, at the end of the day I never got to, guess I better get on it since wife's on board for a tundra when the taxes come in
 
Single wall at the top will get cold, cold will create creosote. Not a good idea.
 
I planned on it, my sole intention is to know before I buy unnecessary parts, although in this case I might be better to just buy it lol but with the wind here, I'd know what I'd have to do to keeping from blowing away
 
The biggest thing to remember is with a modern wood furnace you must have seasoned wood. So you must have next years wood cut split stacked ASAP. Might as well just plan to cut or buy 3 years worth before June. From what I have heard some of your hard oak takes that long to season. Well worth it in the long run as a cord of seasoned oak is 25 million BTUs vrs 16 million BTUs for the same cord burned green.
 
I've noticed a difference in the 2 year old walnut tops i cut this year and the seasoned elm I've been cutting here lately, I've got pallets laid out and so far I have a 4x12x7 filled plus the 2 cord that my wood shed holds
 

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