Tip sprocket clogging

[Kevin McPeek]

When I am ripping log sections it seems like my sprocket always gets clogged up with chips, or curls as the case may be. The chain tension seems to be correct. So is it something to do with technique? I usually rock front to back (of the bar) so I am not cutting the full bar length too often. I am thinking I need to adjust the oiler to get a little more because it doesn't seem like there is a lot of residue on the chain and bar. There is oil there, just not a lot. I have an MS290 if it makes a difference.
How often should I back out of a cut and allow shavings to clear the saw and kerf?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Turn your oiler up to max and forget there's an adjustment under there. If I'm cutting curlies I let up and let it clear if it starts throwing them out the front instead of down and out the back.

Ian

 

[superfire]

Turn your oiler up to max and forget there's an adjustment under there. If I'm cutting curlies I let up and let it clear if it starts throwing them out the front instead of down and out the back.

Ian

i agree that will help

 

[Kevin McPeek]

The adjustment seemed very small. From stop to stop was only about 1/4 turn, is that normal? I opened it but haven't put the b&c back on after cleaning up the saw so we'll give it a go tomorrow.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Yep, the adjustment range is pretty small. Most just max it out before they ever put gas in it the first time.

Ian

 

[RiverRat2]

What Ian said,,,,

Turn your oiler up to max and forget there's an adjustment under there. If I'm cutting curlies I let up and let it clear if it starts throwing them out the front instead of down and out the back.

Ian

+ 2

 

[B_Turner]

.

Technique in cutting noodles is important and generally not well understood. You definitely don't want to have to rock the saw as you loose both the control of the shaving stream as well as getting a crappy cut surface. It's critical that you learn to cut any size pieces dead accurate so once on the lathe you are not either wasting time or wood.

Here is me just getting started on blocking out this round. 52 inches in diameter and 20 inches thick. The main blocks I will get out of this round 20 inches square and around 18 inches tall.

You might be able to see some of the marks I am cutting to. The planning is critical and takes me a while to study, but the cutting goes very fast with the right equipment and techniques.

 

[Kevin McPeek]

It just seems like the saw bogs down pretty easy when taking a full bar cut. Either that or I just expect too much out of my saw. Even rocking the cuts are pretty decent, I hate trying to get a faceplate on an uneven surface.
Around here we rarely see trees of that size, 20" is a good find around here with 30" a rare find. Except Eucalyptus but a lot of guys don't mess with it too much for turning.

 

[GASoline71]

Ripping through wood puts a little more strain on the saw. That is why milling and such is done with big cc saws. You are cutting with the grain instead of against it. So each cutter is now taking "strips" (noodles) instead of chips.

If you are gonna be doin' this type of cuttin' a lot... you might wanna consider a bigger saw.

Gary

 

[Kevin McPeek]

You know what the sad thing is, I kinda thought I was getting a big saw. I knew it wasn't a loggers saw but I figured (and was advised) it would be plenty for what I need. I'll wait to run some more tanks of fuel through it and try a non-safety chain, before I make any expensive choices.

 

[GASoline71]

You know what the sad thing is, I kinda thought I was getting a big saw. I knew it wasn't a loggers saw but I figured (and was advised) it would be plenty for what I need. I'll wait to run some more tanks of fuel through it and try a non-safety chain, before I make any expensive choices.

Yes... ditch the safety chain. You might notice a little better performance in cutting. Key word though is "might".

Gary