Tipped bands versus set bands

[aggiewoodbutchr]

aggie, where do I find prices for bandmill blades? I use 1 1/2, 1 inch pitch blades 19 ft long.:hmm3grin2orange:

Andy

Logmaster, right?

I called for some more info and a price list today. They're supposed to get back with me.

BTW- just came in from cutting out another dozen bowl blanks on the bandsaw for the last 3 hours. Still showing no signs of slowing down. Even found some bailing wire the hard way.

 

[Railomatic]

Tipped blades

I changed up from a standard 2 " blade, to a 2-1/2" tipped blade, I was told that the wider blade was less prone to cracking around the bottom of the gullets, so far this has been true.

My band mill uses car tyre wheels with the blade position/level that is slightly lower than the bottom of the wheels themselves, so I don't need to have the blade as tight as normal bandsaws.

I got my blades direct from the manufacturer here in the UK, the company is called Bennetts, see here http://www.ernestbennett.co.uk/superhpg.htm.

Most of their products goes to the USA, at the moment there are very few companies in the States making these types of blades, but, Bennetts have said they know of the company Simmonds, who actually make these blades and the machinery to sharpen them, so there must be an outlet in the USA where one could get some.

Now I have been running the tipped blades for a while, they really come into their own when cutting wider boards of up to and over 24".

The long term running costs of the tipped blades is actualy cheaper than a standard blade, and running time between changes has more than trebled, in the UK most if not all of the Woodmiser operataors have changed over to these blades.

Now I have the tipped blades I will never go back to the standard blade.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I changed up from a standard 2 " blade, to a 2-1/2" tipped blade, I was told that the wider blade was less prone to cracking around the bottom of the gullets, so far this has been true.

My band mill uses car tyre wheels with the blade position/level that is slightly lower than the bottom of the wheels themselves, so I don't need to have the blade as tight as normal bandsaws.

I got my blades direct from the manufacturer here in the UK, the company is called Bennetts, see here http://www.ernestbennett.co.uk/superhpg.htm.

Most of their products goes to the USA, at the moment there are very few companies in the States making these types of blades, but, Bennetts have said they know of the company Simmonds, who actually make these blades and the machinery to sharpen them, so there must be an outlet in the USA where one could get some.

Now I have been running the tipped blades for a while, they really come into their own when cutting wider boards of up to and over 24".

The long term running costs of the tipped blades is actualy cheaper than a standard blade, and running time between changes has more than trebled, in the UK most if not all of the Woodmiser operataors have changed over to these blades.

Now I have the tipped blades I will never go back to the standard blade.

I spoke with a Simonds distributer yesterday as well. Their prices are not unreasonable.

 

[Andy Harden]

I spoke with a Simonds distributer yesterday as well. Their prices are not unreasonable.

I am paying $88.00 plus freight for bi-metal blades and $44.01 plus freight for Timber Wolf blades. The Timber Wolf blades last about 3 hrs cutting time and the bi-metal 4 to 5 hrs. Then time to set and sharpen.

Andy

 

[FJH]

I am paying $88.00 plus freight for bi-metal blades and $44.01 plus freight for Timber Wolf blades. The Timber Wolf blades last about 3 hrs cutting time and the bi-metal 4 to 5 hrs. Then time to set and sharpen.

Andy

Are the carbide blades more pricey to sharpen?

 

[Andy Harden]

Are the carbide blades more pricey to sharpen?

The bi-metal blades sharpen just like a standard blade. The bi-metal blades are not tipped. They look just like a standard blade. I take an engraver and label them to tell them apart after they are used for a while.

Andy

 

[FJH]

Could you explain the concept of the bi metal blade and the diffrence between it and coventional carbon steel blades.

 

[Railomatic]

The difference betwen them is.

A Bi-metal blade is heat treated/hardened at the front of the blade where the teeth are, leaving the back slightly softer which acts as a shock absorber some companies won't sharpen these because its harder on their sharpening stones/gear.

The standard carbon steel blade has a uniform crystaline structure throughout the metal, a mixture of metals to produce a harder ductile metaline structure, which is easier to sharpen and set, if you want relative cheapness, these are the blades to go for, BUT, will need the most work to keep them serviced, the extra costs of servicing is lost, so you might as well buy a tipped version.

Neither of the above can compete with a stellite tipped band, which does not reley on having any set to clear the waste, they cut on all three sides and give a paralel clearence, and last four times longer in the wood than the others, they do cost about 30% more than the others, but when you add everything up, they are much cheaper in the long run.

 

[Andy Harden]

The difference betwen them is.

A Bi-metal blade is heat treated/hardened at the front of the blade where the teeth are, leaving the back slightly softer which acts as a shock absorber some companies won't sharpen these because its harder on their sharpening stones/gear.

The standard carbon steel blade has a uniform crystaline structure throughout the metal, a mixture of metals to produce a harder ductile metaline structure, which is easier to sharpen and set, if you want relative cheapness, these are the blades to go for, BUT, will need the most work to keep them serviced, the extra costs of servicing is lost, so you might as well buy a tipped version.

Neither of the above can compete with a stellite tipped band, which does not reley on having any set to clear the waste, they cut on all three sides and give a paralel clearence, and last four times longer in the wood than the others, they do cost about 30% more than the others, but when you add everything up, they are much cheaper in the long run.

They incorporate 10% matrix cobalt cutting edge for resistance to tooth chipping and neutral rake tooth design for additional tooth strength.

A carbide blade for my mill from Lenox is $319.19. Other brands are slightly cheaper. I can use the cheaper blades for a long time before I make up the difference.

 

[FJH]

My problem would be to venture from the norm! the guy that sharpens my saws is a real fuss pot! Does not like new concepts!I bought several blades from Cooks saws He didn't like them he said the teeth were uneven and didn't sound right going through the grinder!He said the same of the Simons product (Cooks) blade diffrent gulet shape the wood miser he claims is nice and even from start to finish He does not sell blsdes so he has no axe to grind in that respect.no reason to favor one over another other than working with it!
So buying tiped blades is likly out of the question unles I get or make the rigging to sharpen my own.

 

[Andy Harden]

My problem would be to venture from the norm! the guy that sharpens my saws is a real fuss pot! Does not like new concepts!I bought several blades from Cooks saws He didn't like them he said the teeth were uneven and didn't sound right going through the grinder!He said the same of the Simons product (Cooks) blade diffrent gulet shape the wood miser he claims is nice and even from start to finish He does not sell blsdes so he has no axe to grind in that respect.no reason to favor one over another other than working with it!
So buying tiped blades is likly out of the question unles I get or make the rigging to sharpen my own.

Timber Wolf blades have a deeper gullet than most brands. I bought a different cam to go in my grinder.