TIPS and tricks

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Heres a tip. when limbing trees, ( and bucking for that matter,) I sometimes make my first cut, and as the limb starts to close and bind, I pull out of the cut and start a second cut to the right or left. I angle this cut toward the first cut, to basically cut a little wedge out. I never get bound up.
 
If you chew Copenhagan and carry it in your shirt pocket - keep the lid facing your body, keeps the paper can from getting wet on those sweaty days.

If your old log tapes are getting slower, soak them in diesel over night - be like new in the morning.

If your bar oil is too thick on those cold days, put a little bit of saw gas in it and it will lighten it up.

If your stacked wedges are slipping while being used, pull them out and stick dirt between them.
Just a blast from my past...when I got my first office job Cope was a no no, so I kept the can in my sock, wax side in and it did get hot and such. The niccotine went right into my ankle and got me thru until I could have a proper chew. I now wish I had just let it go.
 
Trick For The MS200T Muffler!!!

If you need to remove the 200T's muffler, it can be done without pulling the clutch, the lower plastic that is behind the clutch is in 2 pieces. The lower one has several screws and has a snap to hold it in place. The muffler just fits through this opening.

That is if didn't already know this!!!
 
..and when you put it back on... put the screws through the muffler and mount the gasket on the screws - the gasket has gripers to hold the screws. Slide in the muffer and screw home...

You don't want to know how many 200T's I've seen with ONE screw in the gasket and the rest of the gasket at 45 degrees partially blocking the cylinder exhaust!
 
If you need to remove the 200T's muffler, it can be done without pulling the clutch, the lower plastic that is behind the clutch is in 2 pieces. The lower one has several screws and has a snap to hold it in place. The muffler just fits through this opening.

That is if didn't already know this!!!

..and when you put it back on... put the screws through the muffler and mount the gasket on the screws - the gasket has gripers to hold the screws. Slide in the muffer and screw home...

You don't want to know how many 200T's I've seen with ONE screw in the gasket and the rest of the gasket at 45 degrees partially blocking the cylinder exhaust!



Thanx Andy...forgot that one!!!
 
On my old crew we always saved old gift cards or such to clean our bar grooves. There we had a few to choose from, now I just have my library card. No other use for it now that everything is on the internet.
 
Never tried this, but I've wanted to glue a bubble level to my saw to keep my first notch and back cuts level when felling. I really struggle with this.
 
If you have to pack your saw in a ways, and want to switch shoulders, and don't want to have two pads on your suspenders, take a sleeping pad, cut it to length and duck tape it so it fits over part of the bar. I use a blue pad with purple duck tape. The pad can also be used to sit or kneel on (take it off the bar) on those days when the ground is chilly or wet. A longer bar also balances the saw better on your shoulder. I packed a 032 with a 28" bar around this way while volunteering to cut open hiking trails. Have since upgraded the 032 now that I'm back in God's country--the PNW. :biggrinbounce2:
 
Funny that this comes up,as I was thinking of adding a small bubble level from a lawn mower cut deck,as I have the same problem.If I cut more I might not need it as I am sure that a majority dont,cause of there experience level.But it might not be a bad idea till i got the feel for it some more.
 
Slime !

I've got a Toro 62" Z/Master.
And I cut a path through my woods.
However, there are Hawthorn trees along the trail.
And those thorns have punctured my tires a couple times.
I now have SLIME super duty tire sealant in my tires.
This prevents against any flat tires.
I also use it in my trailer tires.
 
To keep from loosing that last little bit of bar oil in the bottom of the jug epoxy 2 lids togeather (pop rivets add a little support) and drill a 1/2" hole through them.Screw 2 empty jugs togeather, and stand upright.
Every time you empty a jug screw it on top, and you'll be surprised how fast you get a free 1/2 gallon or so of bar oil.

Andy
 
Before I go out to cut I take the covers off the saws and blow off the cooling fins, air filters, starter side off with my air gun. then take chain off and blow out rails of bar plus around the clutch.

Also fill my camelback with cool water. being hydrated lets me cut longer.

keep your old oil from car and use it to lubricate the wood splitter wedge. Run the wedge up and down three times to lubricate it real good.
Use the flat file from your chain saw sharpen kit to keep the wedge sharp also.
 
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Bar Tension Screw Fix

I lost my bar tensioning screw from the Jonsered 2054T.
The Tensioning pin was still behind the protective metal plate.

Had to by another bar tensioning screw... but they had no locking/holding nut that stops it from falling out.

solution = fuel line!!!

cut a 3/16in (5mm) piece of fuel line and while inserting the tension screw into its locating hole use needle nose pliers to hold the fuel line on the back side of the locating hole and thread the tension screw on. The fuel line will act like a nut. You need to force the fuel line over the screw thread towards the screw head so that it sits freely in the space behind the screw head and mounting hole holding it in place. Dont forget to add the bar tensioning pin before the fuel line is all the way to the head of the screw.

This will never unscrew - carry a few more pieces of fuel line by slipping them onto the chainsaw throttle adjusting screwdriver ... if it does crack or melt... you will have a spare handy.

:)
 

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