To grease or not to grease
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MikeInParadise
ArboristSite Guru
My Canadian MS260 16" bar has a grease hole (Debate on if Stihl or not or just a Canadian Bar
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=381876#post381876
)
My MS660 with a 28" bar does not have a grease hole. Both saws were purchased new last year.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=381876#post381876
)
My MS660 with a 28" bar does not have a grease hole. Both saws were purchased new last year.
Stumper
One Man Band
I quit greasing tips about 15 years ago. No tip failures. No noticeable increase in wear. No more wasted time greasing tips.
Lee Bradley
ArboristSite Lurker
ShoerFast said:
Kevin,
I have several semi-floating wheel bearing rigs, never packed them. My question is where did you see a semi-floating setup?
Lee
bugfart
ArboristSite Operative
It's only a matter of time before some-one puts a differential on a saw to prove us all wrong.
What about that Predator Saw? Probably has a grease fitting and rocker-roller cam at the end. Hey! We can solve this with a motor at each end.
If I reverse the direction of the engine do I have a front wheel drive chainsaw?
What about that Predator Saw? Probably has a grease fitting and rocker-roller cam at the end. Hey! We can solve this with a motor at each end.
If I reverse the direction of the engine do I have a front wheel drive chainsaw?
ShoerFast
Tree Freak
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Lee Bradley said:
Lee
I'm happy for you!
In hope to make a point about how oil dose in fact get the the center of the bar sprocket, against centrifugal forces, using an every-day principles didn't seem to go over too well with some. (but they may be trying to still explain why there still greasing bar-tip bearings)
But the same reasons that we don't need to pack diffy bearings is the best I had at the time,,,, there is a lot of lube that makes it to the bearings.
Why would it matter were i saw one, as I don't know if we have meet,, did you have something cute to say? Or just asking questions?
Kevin
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
a_lopa said:
Grease is a particle magnet! Small particles of sand and dirt will stick to grease. The outside layer of grease covering the grease hole often packs up with the small particles. When you add grease to the bar the outer layer of sand/dirt packed grease is forced into the bearings. You all know what sand will do to bearings.
Solution: If you grease your bars tips, pick out the outer layer of grease before adding additional grease.
If your cutting in snowy conditions, and find an occasional bar nose burns up fairly quickly in the morning, the water (from melted snow) may be freezing the bearings together when the saw is left in the back of your rig over night. The bearings will slide instead of rolling when you start up the next morning causing early nose failures. Greasing at night can purge the water out of the bearing race.
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
Lee Bradley said:
My half-ton Suburban(car) has a semi-floating axle.
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
The grease hole is pretty tiny...I've never had to wipe a layer of dirt off my bar before greasing it. I believe if I ever did have dirt on it something didn't go right! I'm not sure if you've ever seen a grease hole on a bar sprocket. It's not a zerk or anything like that. I like to grease because sometimes you're in a big, long cut and it just seems things would be heating up. Felling big trees for a few hours a day I think you should give your saw all the help it can get.Oregon Engineer said:
Everybody uses techniques that work for them. I grease, some don't.
ShoerFast
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jp hallman said:
JP Hallman
Well put!
I'm sort of so old school that when I don't grease , and start to cut, it seems like there is something I forgot to do, in the back of my mind, you know that feeling like something bad is going to happen!
Maybe it would be worth it just to grease and not have that feeling?
But metels have come so far in the last few years, The cost of replacments just dont hit us as hard is they did either!
Just starting to work as a young teen in the 70's , it seemed thats all we did was fill grease guns somedays.
Now I think I need to pick up one of those lazer-temp guns,,,, so I could just take running temps of things, it would be something to know just how far a greased bar and a bar-lubed bar temps are apart?
There is a chance that as re-greasing shows some of the bar oil dose mix with the grease, that it would be the best of both worlds,,,, as I'm getting spoiled by some of the new ideas,,,, I'm not sure I could even rember how often to work a manual oil-plunger anymore?
Kevin
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
"The outside layer of grease covering the grease hole often packs up with the small p
I got it!!
How about a zerk fitting in the bar nose?????
That way you could....Ummm....wipe the dirt off the tip?:help:
Errr...Nevermind
I got it!!
How about a zerk fitting in the bar nose?????
That way you could....Ummm....wipe the dirt off the tip?:help:
Errr...Nevermind
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
Raised...Your Avatar makes me almost bust a gut everytime I look at it. Reminds me of my two boys at the breakfast table in logging camp. At that age, just months old they were "survivalists". Each knew what a fork was for and how to use it. I learned not to reach bare handed for the last hunk of ham or Johnny Cake.
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
Oh, forgot to add. A pick-a-roon is handy in such situations. You'd be suprised how quickly you can flip flapjacks with one.
wradman
ArboristSite Operative
shoerfast
i have one of those laser temp sensors maybee i will consider trying that.
i know from having various fallers working for me that the biggest killer of bar tips is when they get them partially pinched in a cut , always better to get the whole bar pinched in a cut than almost getting the saw out that is usually how you bugger a tip, get a narrow spot in the bar or break a chain. In all my years of hand falling i've never had a chain just break it always happened within about 10 hrs of run time after a pinch. That's my personal experience anyhow.one last thing for the new fallers out there if you do get a narrow spot in your bar and it starts to get hot just pull the chain out of the groove take your bar wrench and tap it in the grove to spread it back it's better than making a hot spot you may be surprised.
i have one of those laser temp sensors maybee i will consider trying that.
i know from having various fallers working for me that the biggest killer of bar tips is when they get them partially pinched in a cut , always better to get the whole bar pinched in a cut than almost getting the saw out that is usually how you bugger a tip, get a narrow spot in the bar or break a chain. In all my years of hand falling i've never had a chain just break it always happened within about 10 hrs of run time after a pinch. That's my personal experience anyhow.one last thing for the new fallers out there if you do get a narrow spot in your bar and it starts to get hot just pull the chain out of the groove take your bar wrench and tap it in the grove to spread it back it's better than making a hot spot you may be surprised.
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
jp hallman said:
It was even better, but I had to crop and shrink it for this forum.
First time I saw it I damn near shot bar oil out of my nose.
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not trying to discourage you from greasing, just advising something to look for before adding grease. It's not just cutting in dirt that gets garbage into the grease, taking the bar off and setting it on a bench/pickup bed/etc. Grease holes are very small, but big enough to pack a nose burning load of sand.jp hallman said:
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