To pull a 4'er, how big do the Huskies need to be at least?

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:popcorn::popcorn:
Just learn how to run a saw.. If you where off target with a 26'' pine and you where cutting eith a 20 inch bar, well i really dont know what to say, it shouldnt be that hard of a task. if you have a 32'' bar and you are cutting a 72'' tree, the first cut you should make is a flat gunning cut, this dictates where your tree is gonna fall. get good at this cut and then tilting the saw to complete the face angle accurately & you will have a much easier time falling trees. It ie really easy to learn too...
 
OK, so I'll opt for the 3'er.

I know I've read it somewhere that it oughta be better than the diameter. I fell a Canary Pine with a 20" bar once, and the dia was 26". After seeing how far off target this thing it went, I made it a standard of mine to keep it length or better. I know it doesn't have to be that way. I'll just get what is possible. I'm up for a 3120, but I'm not up for a thirty one twenty.

Guys here cut down trees that are over 10' (120 inches) with 066s or 395s with 36" or 42" bars. So you need to learn, a lot.
 
Guys here cut down trees that are over 10' (120 inches) with 066s or 395s with 36" or 42" bars. So you need to learn, a lot.

Thats a big task though and would take some time too :) I'd love to watch though, it would be excellent.

But yeah, if you're having trouble lining up a 20" bar on a 26" tree you might need a bit more practice or need to learn the proper techniques. In all honesty using a 20" bar on a 26" tree is basically just as quick and accurate as using a 32" bar.
 
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If you cant cut 4 foot of tree with a 395, you should have the work done by someone else...

In no arrogant way, I guess I'd have to agree with the kid. Not to say that running a 3120 or an MS880 wouldn't do it without less effort, or more fun.... :D

But any good faller can make due with any 90cc saw. :)
 
I can tell you that "4 ft of chain" is only about a 24" bar so you can choose from the 372 on up, they will all pull a little 24" bar with around "4 ft of chain" on it.
LOL, thats what I was going to say, but a 359 will do that job too.

I run a 24,28,36, and 42" on my 394 and it is stock. But I prefer the 24 or 28"
Id carry the 394 around all day before a 3120.

Id say that if most of the wood you are cutting is 15-30 inches, to stick with a 24" bar. That way you are not carrying around useless amounts of metal. Like me getting stuck limbing with the 394 and 36" combo for 4 hours. :taped:
 
IMO the 394xp can take the 48" bar, especially in pine. I would put some modds on the 394xp and run the 4 footer.
My 395xp handles a 36 with ease, IMO the 4 footer would be possible for it. It does have modds.
 
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Wasn't a 2100 rated to pull a 48" or something like that? That would be a cheaper way to get a rather large saw.
 
I can tell you that "4 ft of chain" is only about a 24" bar so you can choose from the 372 on up, they will all pull a little 24" bar with around "4 ft of chain" on it.

With your obvious lack of experience I hope that you are way, way way out in the middle of no where when that things finally hits the ground, because you sure don't seem to have the knowledge to properly drop a 4 foot diameter tree. So take lots of videos so we can watch too, should be real interesting.
Thanks,

Sam

:ices_rofl:
 
Ok, this has been a good thread. I've decided to go with a 394, 395 or 2100 for cheap and a 36"er and later try out the 42" and maybe the 48".

BTW, I'm not actually dropping the big Euc as is. I'm piecing it down to the spar at least. I'd be in the wrong boots if I were to do anything I can't get right. Even then I carry insurance for for that.

That Canary Pine was only 3" from the hinge on the East side and 1" from the hinge on the West side of the tree. It lent to the East because it severed at the West side sooner. I would have thought that would have made a difference, but the tree landed 15 ft off mark at it's top end. I thought to myself that BS like that can't be happening to me, so I got stuck on keeping the bar longer than the hinge.
 
Here's the info for a 2100.

Model: 2100CD

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: HUSQVARNA VAPENFABRIKS AB
HUSKVARNA, SWEDEN
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1975
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1987
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 99cc (6.0 cu. in.)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 56mm (2.20 in.)
PISTON STROKE: 40mm (1.57 in.)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Piston ported
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: 6.7/4.9 hk/kW
WEIGHT : 11.1 kg with 60 cm bar & chain
24.5 lbs. with 24 in. bar & chain
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Anti-vibration
CHAIN BRAKE: Mechanical
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Electronic
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-136B, C, D series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Nylon mesh cartridge
STARTER TYPE: Husqvarna automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic, adjustable
OPERATING RPM: 8,500
IGNITION TIMING: Mark on stator should align with mark on crankcase
BREAKER POINT SETTING: none
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: fixed, not adjustable
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Bosch WS7F or Champion CJ7Y
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.5mm (0.020 in.)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 1 liter (2.11 pints)
FUEL OIL RATIO: 50:1
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Two-stroke chain saw mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in. or .404 in.
CHAIN TYPE:
BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 17 link
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 40cm (16 in.)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 152cm (60 in.)
COLOUR SCHEME: Husqvarna Orange enamel
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:

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COMMENTS:

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That can't be right. It says that it can turn a 60". 5ft? Is that weally true? Or do they mean they can certainly sell us a 5'er for the saw no questions asked?
 
Those old saws had a lot of torque. They would pull long bars better than the new age saws. You can search on here or over in the milling section but there is quite a bit of stuff on 2100s.
 

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