Torque wrench?

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andrethegiant70

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Hi, Folks, hope you don't mind another newbie question! I'm spooling up to do rings on an old Husqvarna 162, and I was wondering what you were all using in the way of torque wrenches. Any help would be appreciated!!
 
I just use a standard wrench, tighten the bolt to spec, and 1/10th of a turn more to be safe. I'd hate to have a cylinder bolt come loose while I'm running a saw.
 
Snap-on torque wrenchs. 1/4in dial type for in lbs and calibrated clicky type for 3/8in & 1/2in drive.

Always use torque wrenches for critical components like head bolts, bearing bolts, etc

after a while you will start to educate yourself as to say what 45lbs feels like. or 25lbs, etc. you can then estimate correct torque on non critical bolts.
 
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ive got tourque wrenches that range from 35 in lbs to 600 ft lbs ( 4 wrenches total) and ive never tourqued a single jug screw ever and ive never had a problem, what tourque do they normally get tightened to?
 
Wow, I kinda suspected I might get a range of answers, but I didn't think I'd be quite so right! Seems like some folks find torque wrenches indispensable, other just use rules of thumb or raw experience. Part of the reason I'm asking is becase as I look at my Husky, I can't figure out how I might get a torque wrench IN there. How do you Husky guys do it? Is there some super-duper extra long allen wrench extension or a high dollar "special service tool?" If I can find the right torque wrench/attachment combination I think a newbie like me probably ought to use a torque wrench. Failing that, though, I'd REALLY like to hear how you non-torque-wrench users "get it right." Thanks for the feedback gents, I'd love to hear more!
 
German torque system

Years ago I worked with an old timer, who claimed to use the "German Torque System".
I bit and asked what that was, he said "Gooten Tight" or "Gooten Loose"!!!!!
Seriously,if in doubt you can't go too wrong using a torque wrench.
Another thing to add though, I prefer a beam or dial type to the clicker type, even though I use both.
This is because it's good practice to hold torque for a moment to allow the fastener to settle - oftentimes you can torque something up, hold, and watch the pointer or dial fall as things tighten up. I find it better to hold the torque 'till it stops falling. You can do this with a click type , but it's not so easy.
 
andrethegiant70 said:
Wow, I kinda suspected I might get a range of answers, but I didn't think I'd be quite so right! Seems like some folks find torque wrenches indispensable, other just use rules of thumb or raw experience. Part of the reason I'm asking is becase as I look at my Husky, I can't figure out how I might get a torque wrench IN there. How do you Husky guys do it? Is there some super-duper extra long allen wrench extension or a high dollar "special service tool?" If I can find the right torque wrench/attachment combination I think a newbie like me probably ought to use a torque wrench. Failing that, though, I'd REALLY like to hear how you non-torque-wrench users "get it right." Thanks for the feedback gents, I'd love to hear more!
Mac Tools and Snap On sells long ( about 5" ) allen,3/8 drive,so you can use your torque wrench.
 
andre- I gotta admit, I hardly ever use Q wrenches. I use them at work on my helos when I'm putting a head back together or something significant like that. But torques are given for two reasons, 1) so you tighten it enough to stay tight during operation. 2) so you don't damage the material you're driving the screw into. I think in alot of areas, common sense prevails. Someone mentioned gaining the experience to just kinda know the Q. And while sometimes I think I can tell pretty well what 110 in/lbs is, I usually just think about what I'm tightening, and then put the amount of Q on it I think it'd need. Does that make sense? If I'm torquing a cylinder on, I'm going to get it tight enough to keep it in place, but not so tight as to strip something out. If I'm tightening something in plastic or composite, I'm going tight enought to keep the screw in, but not so tight as to crush the composite. That said, if you're not a mechanic, or are not comfortable, a good Q wrench is a wise investment, and you can NEVER go wrong using the published torques.

And yes, Snap-on does make the long allens that will fit on a Q wrench. I can P/N's at work if you need me to. What are those cylinder head screws, 4mm or 5mm?

Jeff
 
Thanks bunches, you guys.... fishhuntcutwood, I won't get home for another week or so to look at what size those allens are (out on the reservation for a while yet).. can I PM you after I check them? Torque wrench with a long allen attachment sounds like the thing.
 
I also have 4 torque wrenchs,the largest at 300 ft lbs.My small one is a Snap On,Dial type,which is calibrated in both inch pounds and Newton meters,3/8" drive.I have several long allen head and Torx head drivers made by Apex and Cornwell,that I use.
 

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