Trees advice...attempt to revive or cut?

[iowawoodcutter]

An aside to Iowa, I'm not sure the deer are getting to your blue spruce so much as there is something else going on there. If you don't mind, start a thread re this spruce and post close up pictures of limbs. At least take a sample to your local extension agency to see what might be going on.

Also, I would remove the growth under the tree and replace with mulch. Spruce's prefer dryer ventilation under their canopy.

Sylvia

will do, be there in 15...

thanks

 

[777ER]

Any way you can winch them out (assuming you have access to a winch)?

No winch avail.

I was thinking of borrowing my uncle's POS craftsman 18" chainsaw that he does not give a hoot about anymore, or rent one to cut the ground around the tree to pluck it out with ease

The chain is crap on the craftsman so it's going dull while in the dirt which doesn't concern me

 

[777ER]

I need to clarify my Liquid Fence instructions. You will use it once a week for a month. But then after that you will use it approximately once a month during heavy feeding (by deer) time of year and as needed after that. In deer country you have to stay vigilant or you will have no landscape. But staying alert to their habits will soon clue you in to the treatment regimen that you need.

On removal, if that is a 3ft retaining wall between you and a neighbor that you already do not get along with, I would be extremely careful on how you remove the shrubs so as not to damage it. Pulling them out would definitely be the most intrusive to the wall. You may want to simply cut them off at the ground (this would also be faster and cheapest) and plant the new shrubs in front. You shouldn't plant too close to the wall anyway as this could also become a bone of contention as they grow and possibly damage the wall or become invasive to your neighbor's space. Green Giants grow approx 30 to 40' tall and about 4 - 6' wide, so take that into consideration. A common problem when planting new, young and small plants is forgetting just how big they are going to get.

Sylvia

How would I find out about the heavy feeding time?

I will take a pic of the wall from the opposite side when I get home from work today.

The landscaper pulled out bigger trees that fell ill due to the water bugs, they were like 7-8 ft tall already. No damage to the wall. It's just rocks or stones on the side of the wall. Not sure if it's a retaining wall?'
Forgive me, I'm a jet mechanic

I was concerned about the space needed before planting which is why I'm going to measure tonite to determine how many of the green gaints I need and post a diagram on here for help in spacing and location of them.

 

[memetic]

Plant them 4' to 5' apart. Get the green giants from the place I pm'ed you. Get the Trade Gallon (3qt) they are approx 30" tall and $16.95 apiece when you buy six.

edit: That's where I got my 15 and they are doing great. I put them in the ground in late spring/early summer and they have grown over a foot each average. I am guessing that next year they will be close to growing five feet each.

 

[777ER]

Where is the property line in your photos?

The row of stones?

Here's the view from the side of the house, red line is the property line. The right side is mine.

 

[777ER]

On removal, if that is a 3ft retaining wall between you and a neighbor that you already do not get along with, I would be extremely careful on how you remove the shrubs so as not to damage it. Pulling them out would definitely be the most intrusive to the wall. You may want to simply cut them off at the ground (this would also be faster and cheapest) and plant the new shrubs in front. You shouldn't plant too close to the wall anyway as this could also become a bone of contention as they grow and possibly damage the wall or become invasive to your neighbor's space. Green Giants grow approx 30 to 40' tall and about 4 - 6' wide, so take that into consideration. A common problem when planting new, young and small plants is forgetting just how big they are going to get.

Sylvia

Can you look at the pic of the rock wall in post #26 and tell me is a retaining wall?

 

[Ed Roland]

The landscaper pulled out bigger trees that fell ill due to the water bugs, they were like 7-8 ft tall already. No damage to the wall. It's just rocks or stones on the side of the wall. Not sure if it's a retaining wall?'
Forgive me, I'm a jet mechanic

waterbugs that suck the water out of the branches, eh. Did the landscaper tell you this and perform the removals?

 

[777ER]

waterbugs that suck the water out of the branches, eh. Did the landscaper tell you this and perform the removals?

I don't know the exact name but by basic terms yes, they're small blue looking round bugs or snails looking things and all over the branches, some were white too.

all 4 different landscapers who was contacted for estimates and evaluation all said the same thing.

 

[777ER]

Plant them 4' to 5' apart. Get the green giants from the place I pm'ed you. Get the Trade Gallon (3qt) they are approx 30" tall and $16.95 apiece when you buy six.

edit: That's where I got my 15 and they are doing great. I put them in the ground in late spring/early summer and they have grown over a foot each average. I am guessing that next year they will be close to growing five feet each.

Here's the layout I just made today after taking measurements:

It's the current setup (the deer eaten trees that is)

Based on your suggestion, I would need about 10 trees. Can you verify or double check?

How far from the edge of the rock wall inwards should it be planted at?

 

[777ER]

proposed layout

And here's the proposed layout with green gaints planted 4 feet center to center of each tree and taking about 4 feet diameter of the tree into acount, they should be planted 2 feet away from the property line correct?

Like this:

 

[Ed Roland]

As arborists we try to preserve before removal. Everyone giving you advice here is either a dendrician or a certified arborist, and in 1 case, a board certified master arborist.

I don't know the exact name but by basic terms yes, they're small blue looking round bugs or snails looking things and all over the branches, some were white too.

all 4 different landscapers who was contacted for estimates and evaluation all said the same thing.

These 4 landscapers are not qualified to make the call.

Landscaper - Adorns or improves (a section of ground) by contouring and by planting flowers, shrubs, or trees.

It is imperative to identify the pest before recommending treatment.

Prescription before Diagnosis = malpractice

I would look for a more competent plantsman. Check into a certified pro. Certification means they, at least, took the time to pass an exam. A certified pro would have identified the target pest and determined if populations were above the threshold concerning plant health. With proper soil management, corrective pruning, root collar excavations, and monitoring, these trees could bounce back in just a few years.


of course, if the wife say's they are too ugly then :greenchainsaw:

 

[777ER]

As arborists we try to preserve before removal. Everyone giving you advice here is either a dendrician or a certified arborist, and in 1 case, a board certified master arborist.


These 4 landscapers are not qualified to make the call.

Landscaper - Adorns or improves (a section of ground) by contouring and by planting flowers, shrubs, or trees.

It is imperative to identify the pest before recommending treatment.

Prescription before Diagnosis = malpractice

I would look for a more competent plantsman. Check into a certified pro. Certification means they, at least, took the time to pass an exam. A certified pro would have identified the target pest and determined if populations were above the threshold concerning plant health. With proper soil management, corrective pruning, root collar excavations, and monitoring, these trees could bounce back in just a few years.


of course, if the wife say's they are too ugly then :greenchainsaw:

I didn't go thru the landscaping BS...my mother did due to me in college.

I'm not gonna worry about them now since I already decided to replace the half@$$'ed trees with the green gaints. Probably just gonna cut them off flush to the ground and plant the green gaints 2 to 2 1/2 feet from the rock wall.

Currently the trees already planted in there is about a foot to less to the rock wall. Shows alot about those 'landscapers'...

I'm not gonna worry about getting a professional to do it since I want to do it as a new home owner and learning from the experts on here.
I learn more on here than the local "experts".

BTW I'm not married yet

 

[Wet1]

You might want to reconsider just cutting them. They no doubt have a root system that will likely get in your way when you replant the green giants, especially if your spacing is not going to be the same as it was with the original trees.

 

[panhead9]

Is that the same neighbor that gave you the greif over the sumak?

 

[777ER]

Is that the same neighbor that gave you the greif over the sumak?

Yep.

 

[777ER]

woodweasel,
found out a lil more info on the 'water bugs', they were like small cotton balls and is found on the branches or near the leaves. I think the name starts with cotton also.
Basically was told all of the trees on that side was dieased by that.

 

[treeseer]

woodweasel,
found out a lil more info on the 'water bugs', they were like small cotton balls and is found on the branches or near the leaves. I think the name starts with cotton also.
Basically was told all of the trees on that side was dieased by that.

sounds like scale. treatable.

do yu know how big green giants get? pack em in like that and they will die at the bottom from shade.

you need a plant wiht a smaller mature size.

Are you going to do your electrical work based on random advice, too?

 

[S Mc]

Possibly more random advice

There appears to be some confusion in some areas on the exact cultivar called Green Giant so you will want to be careful what you are purchasing. There are Green Giants, Thuja standishii x T. plicata, planted at the National Arboretum that after 10 years are 18 - 20' tall with an 8' wide base. These were planted at 3 - 3.5 ft tall on 6.5' centers.

However, I have seen descriptions of the Green Giant that state 30 - 40' tall, 4 - 6 ft wide. So...

A T. occidentalis Gigantenoides or Emerald might be a safer choice in your home situation re size and management.

The best bet would be to find an outlet for your plant and make sure what species and cultivar they are selling to best fit your specific needs. Then based on that find, work out your spacing. The diagram you gave was certainly sufficient for some of these specs.

Re heavy feeding time for deer. The most likely time of severe damage to plants from deer grazing is during the winter. The harsher the winter, the more likely damage will occur. But any time they are passing through is an opportunity to snack. So start paying attention to when you see signs. Are they hanging around, bedding down, or just quickly passing through? I would apply your first spray immediately to discourage sampling. And then just follow their instructions.

Sylvia

 

[Ed Roland]

The best way to discourage deer browse, imo, is with applications of Thiram.
This is the stuff Doctors prescribe to alcoholics. Its taken it and if they have a drink they become violently ill. Long residual on the plant with some light staining. I have no confidence in the putrescent egg and ammonia products.

Call your local Bartlett Tree Expert office or ask your local certified pro about it.

 

[S Mc]

The best way to discourage deer browse, imo, is with applications of Thiram.
This is the stuff Doctors prescribe to alcoholics. Its taken it and if they have a drink they become violently ill. Long residual on the plant with some light staining. I have no confidence in the putrescent egg and ammonia products.

Call your local Bartlett Tree Expert office or ask your local certified pro about it.

This is a new one for me. Sounds great if you are trying to rehabilitate alcoholic deer.

Actually, we have had tremendous success with Liquid Fence and also with the cheaper alternative of hanging bits of Irish Spring from the trees. Then there is always the harvest method...David loves venison jerky. However, this method may be frowned upon in some residential neighborhoods.

But deer can vary in each area. The idea is to train them that your plant does not taste good. Since new deer will come in to your area, you will have to KEEP teaching them that your plant does not taste good. They don't pass the info on. opcorn:

Sylvia