Truck Box Trailer Question

[Cody]

Last fall we had a couple of truck's I had sitting around made into pickup box trailer's. Both were 1500 Chevy's, a '90 and a '94. They're both the standard 3 leaf pack with 1 overload. We sell wood by the truckload and being that they were both 8' boxes it just made sense to us. My problem is that they sway quite aggressively with a load of wood, can't go over 35-40 mph. They're just fine empty, and I filled my 450 gallon tank in the back of one the other day and it also road fine, I'm assuming because it had reached the overloads. My options will both cost around $70-$80.

Option 1 is an add a leaf. I put these on my truck when I rebuilt it and seeing as how I replaced the u-bolts on both trailers I should have no issue installing these.

Option 2 is those coil over type load assist shocks. They'll be even easier to install and while the shocks on both trailers aren't bad, I would at least know they'll never be a problem.

I guess there is the third option, which would be to remove the bottom leaf. My thinking there is that with a load of wood they'll sit down on the overload springs sooner and be more stable but I could be wrong. It's also nearly free, center bolts for the spring pack would be my only cost, and I could always put them back if need be. Ideally a set of 2500 springs would be just peachy, but that's much more costly and labor intensive.

Oh, and option four (4 of 2 now) would be to add side boards to increase wood volume to a load and a half of wood. Theory there is like the load of water, the weight would help reach the overloads sooner.

Any and all responses would be much appreciated.

 

[svk]

My understanding with trailers is they sway when there is too much weight behind the axles. Can you show a picture of the side view of your setup?

 

[chucker]

one other possibility is if the ball coupler/hitch is not centered equally from left to right it will sway. more common then loaded weights or spring action!

 

[Cody]

My understanding with trailers is they sway when there is too much weight behind the axles. Can you show a picture of the side view of your setup?

Agreed, I experienced that for the first time when I was a teenager, bout **** myself. Always thought that 10% tongue weight was rule of thumb and honestly couldn't tell you but there is more weight in front of the axle then behind. It's not so much trailer sway, I'll explain more below.

one other possibility is if the ball coupler/hitch is not centered equally from left to right it will sway. more common then loaded weights or spring action!

That is a strong possibility, unloaded we've had them up to 70 mph and straight as an arrow though. The loaded water tank example wouldn't count as the tank was as far forward as possible, I could try centering it right over the axle but I'd rather not experience 3500 pounds of water with a higher center of gravity slosh around.

I may be wrong when I say trailer sway. It's more like if you're standing on the side of that trailer box and start rocking it back and forth. It may be associated with the sway somehow but that's why I'm here asking is because I don't know. We can go 45-50, possibly faster than that on the gravel roads and they don't rock or sway when loaded, only on a paved surface. Maybe call it oscillation?

 

[svk]

Maybe call it oscillation?

I would then think that the axle isn't truly perpendicular to the tongue.

 

[Cody]

I would then think that the axle isn't truly perpendicular to the tongue.

That was one of my first thoughts. I'll certainly measure them, it's not a big deal and I didn't really want to start a thread on this. Earlier this summer I had to haul some wood and it was a bunch of small ash, which was thrown into the trailer loosely instead of stacked. Trailer didn't rock or sway one bit going just over 60 mph. It's the blue trailer as well which I thought was visibly crooked but I'm not sure I trust my eyes.

 

[Cody]

Both trailers are under 1/4" off at the coupler. Never underestimate them old farts...

 

[chucker]

Both trailers are under 1/4" off at the coupler. Never underestimate them old farts...

? who's an old phart? I am only 19 years old with 40 years experience! still able to hop a 4 wire fence from my wheel chair?? lol

 

[Cody]

? who's an old phart? I am only 19 years old with 40 years experience! still able to hop a 4 wire fence from my wheel chair?? lol

Hahaha, the fella that welded the tongue's on these trailers. He owns a couple tow trucks and while watching him retrieve another truck out of a ravine a few years ago it seemed age was catching up to him, doesn't seem he has lost his touch on welding though.

 

[cantoo]

Stack a load of wood in them or even throw it in but leave the back top empty. Then do your little drive test. I agree on most trailer movement either swag or just swinging around is caused by too heavy on the rear. I haul my backhoe on my trailer and have to put it as far forward as I can otherwise it's a long slow drive anywhere. If you decide to put rack on then taper them to the rear and don't put as much wood at the rear. Trailer tongue height can also be an issue, make sure the load is level as possible use a different height hitch if needed. And a side pic loaded would help us help you.

 

[H-Ranch]

The loaded water tank example wouldn't count as the tank was as far forward as possible, I could try centering it right over the axle but I'd rather not experience 3500 pounds of water with a higher center of gravity slosh around.

I think this answers the question - it's how the trailer is loaded. For example, empty the 100 lb. tongue load is 10% of the 1000 lb. trailer - no problem. With the water tank in the front, the 450 lb. tongue is 10% of the 4500 lb. trailer - no problem. But with wood loaded more or less equally loaded over the axle, the 100 lb. tongue load is 2% of the 5000 lb. trailer - problem! I'm making up numbers just to illustrate the point. Weigh the tongue (or estimate by trying to lift it - and not hurt yourself.) 10% is probably the minimum and could be as high as 15%.

Is the spare tire still under the bed? Move it to the front. Rear bumper? Remove it. Put a toolbox with your chainsaw gear on the tongue. Add another rack to stack wood in front of the bed. Or load it as cantoo advises. It's hard to move the axle back, so the alternative is to put more weight on the tongue.

 

[Cody]

Stack a load of wood in them or even throw it in but leave the back top empty. Then do your little drive test. I agree on most trailer movement either swag or just swinging around is caused by too heavy on the rear. I haul my backhoe on my trailer and have to put it as far forward as I can otherwise it's a long slow drive anywhere. If you decide to put rack on then taper them to the rear and don't put as much wood at the rear. Trailer tongue height can also be an issue, make sure the load is level as possible use a different height hitch if needed. And a side pic loaded would help us help you.

Different height hitch isn't a bad idea at all, I've only got a 2" drop hitch and the back of my truck sits somewhat high, 3" lift springs and taller tires.

I think this answers the question - it's how the trailer is loaded. For example, empty the 100 lb. tongue load is 10% of the 1000 lb. trailer - no problem. With the water tank in the front, the 450 lb. tongue is 10% of the 4500 lb. trailer - no problem. But with wood loaded more or less equally loaded over the axle, the 100 lb. tongue load is 2% of the 5000 lb. trailer - problem! I'm making up numbers just to illustrate the point. Weigh the tongue (or estimate by trying to lift it - and not hurt yourself.) 10% is probably the minimum and could be as high as 15%.

Is the spare tire still under the bed? Move it to the front. Rear bumper? Remove it. Put a toolbox with your chainsaw gear on the tongue. Add another rack to stack wood in front of the bed. Or load it as cantoo advises. It's hard to move the axle back, so the alternative is to put more weight on the tongue.

Maybe I'll have to throw a large round right up front, yes I want to build rack's up front but so far they haven't been necessary. I can easily lift the tongue when empty, when loaded it's probably around 150-180 pound tongue weight if I were to guess. Quick internet search says half cord of ash is 2150 pounds, plus 1400 for trailer means it's only 5% tongue weight at best.

We have some cooler weather coming up towards the end of the week so maybe I'll do some more testing, and if possible take some video. I think I'll center that water tank and put in 25-300 gallons, about the equivalent of a load of wood, and see what happens.

Say that there is a bit of trailer sway going on, just enough to cause the trailer to rock as violently as it does. Do you guys think that it can be masked by the options I listed above?

 

[Big_Al]

I have one made from a late 60's or early 70's chevy 1/2 ton bed. Has the wood slats in bed, 5 leaf springs. When I first started using it to haul wood ( with racks) it swayed pretty good, almost get seasick watching it. I replaced the shocks with some hd ones & it really helped. Nice size for firewood, it's a stepside so it's 4*8*4.

 

[Cody]

I have one made from a late 60's or early 70's chevy 1/2 ton bed. Has the wood slats in bed, 5 leaf springs. When I first started using it to haul wood ( with racks) it swayed pretty good, almost get seasick watching it. I replaced the shocks with some hd ones & it really helped. Nice size for firewood, it's a stepside so it's 4*8*4.

Your's pretty light on the tongue as well? I'd like to keep it that way, got some old 30 lb weights with the handles built in them that could work to add if need be. Wonder if adding 150-180 pounds would work though.

 

[Big_Al]

Your's pretty light on the tongue as well? I'd like to keep it that way, got some old 30 lb weights with the handles built in them that could work to add if need be. Wonder if adding 150-180 pounds would work though.

Mine feels fairly heavy on tongue. If it's empty I can barely lift tongue enough to get it on stinger. If it's loaded , no way. If my memory is correct it weighed around 1200-1300 lbs.

 

[cantoo]

Cody, the heavier springs will likely just mask the real problem so I would try to solve that first then beef up as needed. I have over 20 trailers, besides being a hoarder one of the reasons is so that my wife can load and pull anything she needs for her lawn business. I have trailers from 8' long to 20' long depending on what she is hauling that day. She uses a 20' trailer to haul the steiner and lawn roller because of the heavy weight of the roller on the rear. It fits on the 16' trailer but whips you all over the road so she uses the 20' and loads the steiner right to the front, this puts the weight over the axles instead of behind them.

 

[Cody]

Cody, the heavier springs will likely just mask the real problem so I would try to solve that first then beef up as needed. I have over 20 trailers, besides being a hoarder one of the reasons is so that my wife can load and pull anything she needs for her lawn business. I have trailers from 8' long to 20' long depending on what she is hauling that day. She uses a 20' trailer to haul the steiner and lawn roller because of the heavy weight of the roller on the rear. It fits on the 16' trailer but whips you all over the road so she uses the 20' and loads the steiner right to the front, this puts the weight over the axles instead of behind them.

I think what I'll try is just box sides for the front half of the trailer and load that up, if that still isn't enough weight I'll make a rack for some weights where the frame necks down or just set a big ass round on it. I've hauled tail heavy trailers before that weren't near the issues this trailer is but I'll come back with whatever resolution works.

 

[cantoo]

You'll get her dun.

 

[Cody]

You'll get her dun.

Well, it'll beat dad's idea of putting blocks between the frame and the axle. Those poor 10 bolts wouldn't last a day. I could even live with a little bit of sway but over 40 mph and it'll chuck wood over the side.

 

[Cody]

Built these side boards out of regular decking from Menards and filled up some wood for a guy this past Saturday, seemed to do the trick. Weighs it down enough to make the overload springs useful, obviously more tongue weight and haul more wood! Worked pretty slick as we were able to do 60 mph with slight sway, mainly when you hit a good bump but seemed to come out of it. I'm sure a heavier set of shock absorbers will cure the remaining bit just wonderfully.

Thank you all again for the helpful guidance!