Trying to find something for my pushmower.

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ANewSawyer

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I am trying to convert my non choke lever pushmower to have a choke lever. It has a hole in the governor plate on the front of the mower and a hole in the handle bars so it will go right on. However, I require a bracket that goes on the l-head that holds the throttle cable in place on the head. Engine is a L-head Briggs and Stratton 10H902-0101-E1 Any ideas???
 
That engine number pulls up a carburetor with no choke capabilities.
Not even an un-drilled boss on the body for a choke shaft.
Looks like you're stuck with the primer bulb.

Do the the fuel system makeover.
Clean the crud out of the gas tank.
Check the top of the tank, where the carb fits, to see that it's flat.

Ditto on the carb body where it meets the tank.
look for any cracks or other reasons for vacuum or fuel leaks.
Check the tubular screen under the carb bottom, for clogging, debris.
Also check the one in the end of the fuel pickup tube.

Put a new diaphragm and gasket under the carb
and be careful not to let that spring get out of place,
when you put the carb back onto the tank.

Probably easier to do with the tank and carb upside down.
Be careful not to catch the diaphragm when you put the screws in.
That spring tends to pull the diaphragm out of place and cause that to happen.

IF the diaphragm gets kinked, It won't work worth a piss.

Replace the primer bulb also. They get stiff or cracked and don't do the job then.

Put a good O-ring in the carb body where it fits over the intake tube.
Look for any damage to the tube and where it attaches to block.
and watch out for that spacer on the long, tank bolt, over the top middle area, make sure not to lose that.

Now then if the engine is in good shape, then that ought to get it to crank without any drama.

Make sure that the flywheel key isn't sheared, including a partial shearing.
Just wacking anything, that stalls the engine (including heavy grass)
will work against the key.

Check for a good strong spark while you're at it.

Been doing this from rote memory for years, hope I didn't miss mentioning anything.
I kind of forget how to give the verbose details, after a while.
 
Mine had no throttle lever and I wanted one, so I put lever and cable in it, used straps to tie cable's outer housing to fuel filler neck, so that outer housing is not moving around when I turn the lever.

There was throttle butterfly and that had spring mechanism, so I took off springs and put cable to hole in lever where springs used to be.

So you just need to strap that cable's outer housing to something to make it work (to make it pretty is something I don't know anything from), if you can make two holes and put strap around the cable using those two holes it would be even more secure.
 
It starts fine, Leg, but I want RPM control over it without walking forward and messing with the govenor plate. I think calling it a choke lever is a mistake but I don't know the correct term. I will be hooking it to the govenor plate thing. All the govenor springs will be attached still. I just want to adjust that plate without stopping. Thanks though!
 
This is what I am looking for:

Start at 4:30 he puts the throttle cable on. I am looking for that bracket and screw, my mower is set up to receive them but I need a model numer off an older mower that has the parts to find them. I have a cable tie on there right now. I had to drill a hole in the handle lower because the cable was too short, if had been longer it would have bolted right up.
 
I've got my Sisters mower down for the fuel system.
It has the carb like yours.
It's an older model, that has a throttle control,
So that should help with finding some options for getting you hooked up!

I've also got my mid 80's B&S with the same carb, etc, as the one in that video.

Let me get a few more photos ,as I work and then I'll post them and all of the engine numbers from things here.

It may be a day or two, but i will get things up as soon as I sort the pics and wrap up a couple irons that are in the fire.

I usually tend to snap waaay too many shots, as I go.
and then have to sort through all of them.
 
Mine is a newer one but it has all the holes and spots for the bracket in the cylinder shroud. Seems to really pep the mower up but I don't want to over do it...
 
It works awesome as long as the cable doesn't move on the housing. Made mowing so much easier. I did see a kit that might contain what I need but I will have to find the part number again.
 
Here are some shots of how the Sprint 3.75 engine, mounted a throttle.

#1 is just an overview of the engine.

#2 shows the notch & screw hole, for clamping a cable in that location.

#3 shows a die cast clamp, as used to secure the cable in a side routing. (yellow circle)
Referencing the "jackssmallengines.com" site link
part #265A is the die cast clamp.

Part #265B is the stamped steel clamp, typically utilized in the front mount position.

#4 is just a shot with the air cleaner and engine shroud removed to allow a better view of all of the linkage and cable routing.
Note the clamp on the side of the shroud (yellow circle)

From here , I guess that you'll need to just decide what bits will best serve your intentions.
Hopefully these photos will give you enough ideas to begin to track down the parts for your engine.

http://imagecdn.jackssmallengines.c...controls-governor-spring-ignition/diagram.gif

The mid '80s engine mearly has the #265B steel clamp on the air shroud. I've never mounted a remote throttle
as just reaching down to adjust the throttle lever was easy enough.
I have the cylinder mounted toward the rear or operator position, though.

I just simply figured that if I didn't really need the remote control
Then Why add another item to need maintaining?
so I never did.
 

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That should get me there, thanks!!! When you have that stupid safety bar and a front mounted carb, it is slightly tricky to change the lever with the engine running. Hmm, I routed my cable across the front of mower. Fine, 'cept I melted the rubber cable shroud. It is metal underneath, but just a little bit ugly.
 

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