Ts350 -> 08s

[Marc Liebeskind]

Great, thank you for the information. I didn't expect the stated settings to be final, just to get the unit running.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I can`t find the 1/4 turn out setting in any of my old manuals, your post got me to look ....LOL

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

Check out page 24 of the attached.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Check out page 24 of the attached.

There you have it, straight from Stihl, no need to question it then, set it up that way and try getting it dialed in.
I have run Tillotson HL `s a great deal, just never had one run that lean ever. ,Maybe the jetting was setup differently for the TS350 carb. Do you have the model number for it, I can look up the jetting if you do.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

The model number for the carb? I will look for it. Thanks.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

I am converting a solid state 08S to a points 08S. Coils are too hard to find and too expensive when you do find them for the solid state ones.

I'm curious why you want to convert a 350 rather than just getting an 08.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

There you have it, straight from Stihl, no need to question it then, set it up that way and try getting it dialed in.
I have run Tillotson HL `s a great deal, just never had one run that lean ever. ,Maybe the jetting was setup differently for the TS350 carb. Do you have the model number for it, I can look up the jetting if you do.

It seems strange though to turn the H screw counterclockwise till it stops?

 

[pioneerguy600]

I read that and am still trying to figure that one out, may just be a misprint.

 

[ray benson]

It looks like the carb has adjusting limiters.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Another possibility. A 1/4 turn out seems awfully lean for any Tillotson I have ever worked on. Can`t say I ever had one from a TS350 on the bench but have done a few from the 08`s and a truckload of HL`s off other older saws.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

The carburetor number is HL 371A 001
Engine Family is YA8XS,0605RA

I turned the H screw all the way counterclockwise, however there is no stop. It just came out of the bore.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

From the technical service manual, it looks like there should be caps on the H and L screws, and two different sets of screw positions are shown. I don't understand the graphics though. Do you?

 

[pioneerguy600]

The screws do have caps in that service manual and like a lot of saws that came with caps there is an initial setting the screws are set at first before the caps are placed on them. The low is set at 1 5/8 out and the high is set 1 1/4 turns out , then the caps are installed in such a way that they allow 1/4 turn of adjustment, if every component in the saw is in perfect working order the engine should tune within those parameters. On older engines I would doubt they would tune within those parameters, setting them by ear works for me but a tach would be a more precise way to set them. I see the idle setting is 2,00 and WOT 9,500.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

Ok, thank you. I will try those settings as a starting point, and set the LA screw the way you described, and see if it will stay running, and fine tuned.

What kind of tach do you use or should I use? I have a photo-type tach that might work for this (if I can find it). I've used it for HVAC motors and a lathe to confirm RPMs. (It looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Engi...r/372468826539?hash=item56b8df41ab:rk:40:pf:0).

When I first tried the saw with 1 turn out on each screw, and throttle lock and choke on, it would start and run, and puffed a lot of smoke. When I released the throttle lock and moved the choke to off, it would run really fast and then quit.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I use a DTI20 tach occasionally but rely mostly on my ears for tuning chainsaws but the demo saws are a bit different. They actually tune the same way but it a bit more difficult to hear them with the blade in steel or concrete. Any small engine tach will work to get the engine close to spec RPM, no need to buy the most expensive ones. Have you rebuilt the carb with a new kit of inner gaskets and diaphragms?

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

Thanks. I did not rebuild the carb. I wanted to see what kind of condition it was in and see if it would run at all before I did any additional work besides putting it together properly. Previous owner had it set up wrong and made some mods to it, and the carb linkages would not work.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Fair enough, give it a try.

 

[Marc Liebeskind]

So then the manual makes sense to turn the H screw "counterclockwise" until it stops - it is assuming the screw has the limiter cap on it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

So then the manual makes sense to turn the H screw "counterclockwise" until it stops - it is assuming the screw has the limiter cap on it.

Yes, that is my take on it, the caps are routinely pulled and discarded by those that know, others that think they know how to tune a carb. There must have been some sort of stop bracket mounted that the limiters would be forced to stop against, likely discarded as well.

 

[KASH]

I got a ts 350 for free but it had low compression due to a long hard life breathing concrete dust.I had a spare 08s and just swapped the jug and piston from it to the ts 350. You have to watch as the early 08 had 43mm later 47mm.I have ran Sthil 08s for many years not fast but very dependable.
open high needle 1.5 turns
open low needle 1.5 turns
always set low speed first
get it to idle well then set high speed
check idle again and fine tune
check to see if it accelerates smooth with no bog if it bogs open idle a little
Kash