Two starting issues with Husqvarna 61

[dsell]

1st, when the saw is cold (meaning setting for a day or so), the cord pulls extremely hard and the owner said it didn't always do this years ago. I've experienced this and it is ridiculous, not just compression.

2nd, after using the saw under normal conditions, it has to set 1/2 an hour before it will restart. This has been going on a few years, so I doubt it's a coil issue. Were these prone to vapor lock? I've had him open the fuel cap and it doesn't help.

The saw is probably 20 years old, original owner, and it's never had a carb kit, rings, seals, or anything major repaired, the factory cylinder has never been off.

I'm going to have him check to see if the rope is doubling in the pulley.

He'd like to rebuild it, (seals, ring, bearings, carb kit, fuel line & filter), but I hate to put the money and time in it until we figure out these issues.

 

[psjwi]

My 362 was super hard to pull over and it was one of the pins on the flywheel had broken out of the flywheel casting. With only one pin for the starter pawls to engage it was forcing the starter assy off to one side up against the housing. You could still pull it over but it was a real arm buster.

 

[dsell]

Good thought, we'll have to check that. He said what's really strange, it doesn't pull hard like that after the first start of the day. I was wrong on the restart issue, it's been going on a year. The hard initial pull has been going on 3 years.

 

[Wood Doctor]

A kinked fuel line could cause the 2nd issue. When the saw warms up and runs awhile, the fuel line gets kinked like a garden hose and blocks the fuel flow. That makes a restart really tough. It doesn't take much kink.

I suggest that you replace the fuel line and the fuel filter while you are at it.

 

[BigDee]

My old 266 was like that. Same family as the 61. I pulled the jug and it was heavily carbonned, piston top and cylinder crown, boosting the compression, I guess. I did not have a compression gauge at the time. I scraped it cleanish and the pulling is much better. In warm weather it is still hard to restart. Hold the trigger with your toe while you pull.... Usually works for me. Don

 

[Griffdog1]

I would pull the starter mech, give it a clean and have a look at what might be going on there to start with, that's a five minute job that costs you nothing. Chances are that the whole show if full of crud so compressed air the sheet out of that area and see what you have got! Next I would chuck a compression tester on it and see what she is blowing. My guess is that you will be low on compression with 20 years of carbon build up to boot! a quick look down the plug hole will confirm this but I would pull the muffler as well and see what things look like on the cylinder wall, top and sides of piston. At this point you can make an assessment about your next steps. If the cylinder wall and piston look OK I would just re-ring and give the whole saw a thorough clean and rebuild the carby with new filter and fuel lines. Your hot start issue would I think be a combination of ring wear, tired carb, clogged fuel filter and breather. Non of this is a big hassle but takes a bit of time. Is it a white/grey top era one? If this is the case and he is invested in it and wants a nice saw, I would consider putting a 266/268 cylinder and piston along with the better Tillotson carb, using the 266/61 filter and elbow. This carb will only cost a few bucks second hand and is easy to get a good quality carb kit for and basically will give you a stonking 68cc saw that looks stock. You will be currently dealing with the Walbro carb most likely.

These are really well made and good quality saws. You are laughing in that the saw actually runs so the ignition is likely OK. Most blokes who keep this type of saw long term run em with a oily mix based on what was recommended back in the day and also run them rich - this is good for under stressing the saw but does tend to mean they carbon up a lot, my guess is that you will have a really carboned exhaust port and a sludged up muffler. Good things on these saws is that the muffler is a simple two section design but it runs a perforated middle plate with a mesh screen and every one I have had has had this clogged to buggery.

In short, give it a good clean and general going over and see what you have then - it is time that you need (which might make it hard if you are a business, but I recon I put 3 hours into the saw pictured (before and after) and spent about 40 bucks and it is now running like a top.

 

[BigDee]

It would have made sense to re-ring mine while I had it apart to remove the carbon, but I did not, and it still reads over165#.

 

[Griffdog1]

They usually clean up nice as they are carboned up to cause they were running rich and oily so they are wearing minimally - you reckon you have a base gasket? 150psi for mine.

 

[BigDee]

yes I left the gasket there. I know I ran it rich because I got a warrantee rebuild fr0m Husqv when I cooked it brand new, 1985 or so. I heated with wood for many years and it was my main saw, 5--8 cords per year.

My gauge is a cheapie, but the numbers compare well with others.

 

[dsell]

The carbon build up is a good thought. He has always ran 50:1 It's one of the newer models.

 

[Bret4207]

I'm betting Griffdog1 has the right answers. So many people never do a good cleaning on their saws. Do a detailed cleaning, fix the recoil, check for carbon and I bet you'll find it's like a different saw.

 

[Wood Doctor]

As long as we are on the subject, I acquired a vintage Husky 61 that goes back at least 27 years. It starts and runs, but I've measured compression at 125 psi cold. And, when you hold it by the pull cord, it drops right down. Most of my other saws will hold it under their own weight. In addition, it seems to lack the power that a saw this size should have.

So, should I change out the old top end? I have a gut feeling it's the original. Looks simple enough, but I must admit I've never rebuilt the top end on a Husqvarna saw -- only a flock of Stihls, several Echos, and a Makita. WDYT?

 

[BigDee]

These saws are very easy. I would pull the muffler to see the condition of the piston, ring and cylinder. If they are good, you may just need a ring and some scotchbrite with elbow grease. While you have it apart, you could open the exhaust and remove the base gasket for no-cost gains. And then take a look at the innumerable options for building the 61 toward the 266, 268 and 272.

 

[Griffdog1]

Early 61's are very easy and nice saws to work on and only require basic skills. Don't stress too much about the compression, be more interested in how it actually runs and cuts. If it is running ok, do the things I mentioned above, and run a few tanks of quality fuel oil mix at 50-1. See how it stacks up. My favourite saw puts out the lowest psi of all my saws but runs like a champ..
If you are going to do the top end, strongly consider putting a 266, 268 or 272 p+c on it along with carb. 50/52mm are easier to get cheaply, the closed port design of the cylinders are better and the tillotson carb is better and easier to get rebuild kits for.

Having said that, a few bucks to re ring, clean the inlet and exhaust ports up and a coke can base gasket and she will go ok for a couple of hours work and next to no money.

 

[Wood Doctor]

These saws are very easy. I would pull the muffler to see the condition of the piston, ring and cylinder. If they are good, you may just need a ring and some scotchbrite with elbow grease. While you have it apart, you could open the exhaust and remove the base gasket for no-cost gains. And then take a look at the innumerable options for building the 61 toward the 266, 268 and 272.

I pulled the muffler. While not seized, the ring looked shot. Top of the piston was black and caked with carbon. Piston sides were black as the ace of spades. Cylinder inside looked OK, but hard to tell.

I elected to rebuild the top end, piston, ring, and cylinder. I carefully saved the base gasket. The piston showed massive evidence of blow-by failure. The ring was loose, but hardly existed. Practically gone, it could no longer maintain compression. So, a completely new top end is now in progress. Believe me, for numerous reasons, it's not the same as rebuilding a Stihl. I have to put on a new hat. Carb should be mounted to cylinder prior to reinstalling unless you are a magician.

I think dsell, the OP, is on the same path for a top-end rebuild. That's why I posted all of this here.

 

[BigDee]

Carb should be mounted to cylinder prior to reinstalling unless you are a magician.

+++

 

[burnses]

I built a 266xp same as your 61 except bore ect.....had VERY almost exact cold start problem....was the starter pulley...they split at the inner diameter where the rope starts I think the rope tries to double up on itself when you pull it and it jamms+you loose the leverage of the rope at its largest wound diameter....what? Gotta look real close I didn't believe it till I looked real hard a saw the crack...you prob got a 2 piece ignition on that thing and if the coil or igniter coil all jammed with crap could get the ignition hot and cause it to fail and come back when I cools off. Not like working on a stihs but no rubber impulse hoses....

good luck

 

[Wood Doctor]

All done with my rebuild. I started her this morning with the new top end. Started right up, runs much better, idles perfectly, and it's a keeper. I'll break her in gently, but this saw's raring to go cut wood. What a difference!

Hardest part of the rebuild process was removal and reinstalling the carb. The jug I got needed more threads tapped on the left side for the long carb screws OR a 1/8" spacer under the screw head. I went with the spacer. Mine also has the 2-piece ignition. I ended up replacing both last year.

My thanks to OP for posting this thread and for putting up with my hi-jacking. Maybe he learned something along the highway. I did.

 

[Griffdog1]

All done with my rebuild. I started her this morning with the new top end. Started right up, runs much better, idles perfectly, and it's a keeper. I'll break her in gently, but this saw's raring to go cut wood. What a difference!

Hardest part of the rebuild process was removal and reinstalling the carb. The jug I got needed more threads tapped on the left side for the long carb screws OR a 1/8" spacer under the screw head. I went with the spacer. Mine also has the 2-piece ignition. I ended up replacing both last year.

My thanks to OP for posting this thread and for putting up with my hi-jacking. Maybe he learned something along the highway. I did.

Great to hear it came together well.

 

[dsell]

A kinked fuel line could cause the 2nd issue. When the saw warms up and runs awhile, the fuel line gets kinked like a garden hose and blocks the fuel flow. That makes a restart really tough. It doesn't take much kink.

I suggest that you replace the fuel line and the fuel filter while you are at it.

Did you determine where the fuel hose was getting kinked? I took my 272 cutting yesterday and shuts off in the cut. I have to choke it to start it again. So, either the hose is getting kinked, bad fuel filter, or junk in the screen of the carb. I'd like to find the problem so I'm sure it's ready the next time I cut 24 miles from home. Thanks to the 575 which was a beast yesterday.