Tying split tail to caribiner

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I only use steel carabiners to climb with. I also really like the swivel snaps as they allow me to move around in a tree without getting tangled up in the rope. Or having the rope twist up on itself. Seems to work awful nicely.

Good luck, be careful...

View attachment 167414

What is the tie off on the yellow rope? sorry forgot the name. and what saddle is that? Buckingham ....?
 
that's absolutely not true!

a splice eye is not safer than a properly tied triplefisherman.

a triplefisherman has the advantage of self cinching without a major loss of strength. VS a girth hitch loses substantially more strength, which is needed to cinch to biner. even a tight spliced eye will not cinch like a triplefisherman.

All climbers should be aware that girth hitching any Dyneema slings, regardless of size, causes them to lose around 50% of their strength. girth hitching standard climbing line could result in strength loss of 30% vs a triplefisherman loses about 10%

there's documented instances of factory spliced eyes failing.
same could be also said of knots failing from being improperly tied.

personally don't trust factory splices... my triplefisherman is tied by me...
I KNOW my life can be trusted to that knot. I cannot say the same about a splice not done by me.

look at the triplefisherman on a split tail tied by me below... easy visual check that knot is 100% tied correctly and will not fail. can you say the same about any factory spliced eye?

triplefisherman2.JPG

thanks for the great info there!
 
Wait, so your double locking steel rope snaps are safer than a triple locking aluminum snap or biner? The ONLY piece of hardware I've ever had open up on me are the double locking steel and AI rope snaps. Talk about unsafe. Throw those pieces of trash in the garbage if you want to talk about safety.
 
Wait, so your double locking steel rope snaps are safer than a triple locking aluminum snap or biner? The ONLY piece of hardware I've ever had open up on me are the double locking steel and AI rope snaps. Talk about unsafe. Throw those pieces of trash in the garbage if you want to talk about safety.

Of course that would be true if you were correct about double locking instead of triple- action locking carabiners, but both steel biners shown here are triple action, slotted key mated carabiners. The steel snaps are swivels and they are double action, it is possible to load the side of the snap, thus causing it to unlock, but it takes a separate action to open the gate. I have been climbing on a system like this for years, once (on one occasion) both gate and lock were disengaged, but the snap didn't roll out of the "D" Ring, this happened when I was climbing a White Pine, only after the snap was covered in pitch- I was above my climbing system, and the snap was hanging without any tension on it.

My set up, notice the tight eye splice, on the screw connector, no movement/rolling around.
[url]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-9/1076198/0109111204a.jpg[/url][img]
This photo shows the type D.M.M. 45kn[img][url]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-9/1076198/0109111204b.jpg[/url][img]

But, had you known, you would have been correct.

:chainsawguy:
 
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What is the tie off on the yellow rope? sorry forgot the name. and what saddle is that? Buckingham ....?

Buckingham high backed leather and canvas, boson seat with leg straps- uncomfortable but serviceable- Have up graded to Ergovation, it allows for infinite adjustments and or un adjustments depending on how you climb...

The tie in / termination knot, is called the "Anchor Bend", this results in approx 10-20% loss of strength in rope, however after using this termination knot for 12 years I have never seen it fail under normal climbing loads, and only once fail due to over loading at this point (interestingly, the aluminum carabiner failed as well) This was after winching with a 10K winch, to test the strength of the bend.

This bend holds very well, doesn't allow the climbing line to slip around on the biner, and is easy to untie even after it has gotten wet. The only problem with this hitch is that it can interfere with the gate on the biner, if tied opposite of the way it is in the attached picture.
 
that's absolutely not true!

a splice eye is not safer than a properly tied triplefisherman.

a triplefisherman has the advantage of self cinching without a major loss of strength. VS a girth hitch loses substantially more strength, which is needed to cinch to biner. even a tight spliced eye will not cinch like a triplefisherman.

A good tight spliced eye can cinch as good as that triple fisherman.

You expressed valid concerns about factory splices, but a splice can be inspected in the same way a knot can. What you're pointing out is that you are not looking close enough at the splice to determine if it is done right or not.

You like the triple fisherman because it is what you know and are used to. But the benefits of that knot all exist with the splices, too.

Don't be too rough on the splices! :cute:

View attachment 168586

And besides...how sexy is this?!?!?

love
nick
 
welcome to AS... never terminate your lifeline with a bowline, unless you back it up with a backup knot. like a double fisherman. triplefisherman is a MUCH better choice for multiple reasons. it cinches down, keeping knot from moving to lateral or weak points of biner.

bowline knot naturally loosens up when load is released. there's documented instances of bowline failing from loosening up by being unloaded.

Triple Fisherman knot is the only termination knot I'd trust without a backup knot and hands down the termination knot of choice.

IMHO below is the only safe way, to use bowline as a termination knot.
bowlinebacked.JPG


hi, i use 3m of marlow 13mm rope for a split tail. i tie the biner on with a fishermans or bowline. works for me!
 
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