Unsharp chains

[fearofpavement]

I think that sometimes chain filing/grinding can get to the point of ridiculousness. I don't check the air pressure in my truck tires every time I leave the driveway. I'm sure NASCAR truck drivers know exactly what their air pressure is. The correlation is that if a chainsaw operator knows how a sharp chain cuts, then they know when it's NOT sharp and something needs to be done. Whether my chain was sharpened on a grinder, with a file, by a strong stare or whatever, if it isn't cutting to my satisfaction I either sharpen it or replace it. I don't lie in bed at night and calculate techniques to improve the edge on a chain. I have a number of measuring tools in the shop and the only precision tool I use on chain is a dial caliper to measure gauge if unknown. I never have measured the length of a tooth. Don't really care how long it is as long as it is sharp.

By the way, I don't think that you can have a productive day in the woods if you don't file chains at all. I usually touch mine up every couple tanks of gas and can't imagine taking enough chains to the woods to change it out every time it needs a light touch up. So even if your chains are ground with the best grinder out there and have a razor edge, it doesn't take too long before they would really like to see a few strokes of a file.

For someone that is learning filing, I recommend they run a file on a new chain. If the chain is all dull and misshapen, it will be hard for them to know what it should look like. Start with a new one and get a grasp of what it should look like and then sharpen the dull ones. It isn't rocket science but does take some practice. Even in clean wood a chain will dull. A file costs about $2.00. Get some and use them.

 

[AKDoug]

I could change a chain twice as fast as I could touch one up, so I packed four chains a day when I cut for a living. I don't ever recall using all four chains in a day. I sharpened at home.

 

[7sleeper]

Diamond coated and chainsaw cutters do not play well together. Otherwise, believe me we'd all be trying them!
......

Of course they do. I am talking about files and not grinding wheels. I have read that there are companies in the US that makes them for you guys. We have a fellow here in Europe that has them. They are expensive but they more or less "polish" your cutters. That is for the guys who just believe they are getting the extra mile...
And of course the variables are to many beginning with the saw and ending with the wood so for me this discusion is kind of senseless. Of course I am excluding "racers" who want to extract the last remaining variable in their results.

7

 

[Steve NW WI]

Of course they do. I am talking about files and not grinding wheels. I have read that there are companies in the US that makes them for you guys. We have a fellow here in Europe that has them. They are expensive but they more or less "polish" your cutters. That is for the guys who just believe they are getting the extra mile...
And of course the variables are to many beginning with the saw and ending with the wood so for me this discusion is kind of senseless. Of course I am excluding "racers" who want to extract the last remaining variable in their results.

7

They exist, but at $51.00, that's half what I just paid for a CBN wheel for my grinder. Heck, it's half what I paid for my grinder...

I have a cheap set of diamond files at work that I use on tool steel, but not in saw sizes, they're just little fellas.

7/32 diamond file at MSC if anyone wonders where I got the price from:

Diamond Files | MSCDirect.com

 

[mainewoods]

I think that sometimes chain filing/grinding can get to the point of ridiculousness. I don't check the air pressure in my truck tires every time I leave the driveway. I'm sure NASCAR truck drivers know exactly what their air pressure is. The correlation is that if a chainsaw operator knows how a sharp chain cuts, then they know when it's NOT sharp and something needs to be done. Whether my chain was sharpened on a grinder, with a file, by a strong stare or whatever, if it isn't cutting to my satisfaction I either sharpen it or replace it. I don't lie in bed at night and calculate techniques to improve the edge on a chain. I have a number of measuring tools in the shop and the only precision tool I use on chain is a dial caliper to measure gauge if unknown. I never have measured the length of a tooth. Don't really care how long it is as long as it is sharp.

By the way, I don't think that you can have a productive day in the woods if you don't file chains at all. I usually touch mine up every couple tanks of gas and can't imagine taking enough chains to the woods to change it out every time it needs a light touch up. So even if your chains are ground with the best grinder out there and have a razor edge, it doesn't take too long before they would really like to see a few strokes of a file.

For someone that is learning filing, I recommend they run a file on a new chain. If the chain is all dull and misshapen, it will be hard for them to know what it should look like. Start with a new one and get a grasp of what it should look like and then sharpen the dull ones. It isn't rocket science but does take some practice. Even in clean wood a chain will dull. A file costs about $2.00. Get some and use them.

+1:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbsup:

 

[Moparmyway]

Gday
1. I asked about the use of a coolant or air on here several months ago and didn't get a great response
If you were to use a coolant what would you use

2. I wish I could set it up to grind outside in on both sides of the chain I don't like the burr it leaves and I am particularly light handed when grinding

3. I find the after the grind the file standard size for 3/8 chain doesn't fit as well onto the gullet and several swipes are needed to clean that up
I feel a slightly thicker stone may be needed
what do you thing and were would I get one from

4. Ive heard good ones are expensive but Id like to get something of good quality as it would see me out what do you recommend
currently for hard wood cross cutting for fire wood I use a 25 degree angle and 55 gullet Its holding a good edge and Ive probably cut 6 to 7 ton of hard wood on the current sharpen

1. I use air on a heavily rocked chain ..... think like a gas powered cutoff saw with its water, run a hose to the chain vise attach it to a tube of copper pointed towards the cutter ready for the grinder, and give it some air across the cut. Helps a lot, not snotloads, but it will help you go quicker as you will keep the teeth cooler as you grind

2. Most PSC motors can be reversed. I reversed my 511a and love it, as there aint no more burrs !

3. stones and files: there are lots of ways to accomplish matching them together, one way is to dress the stone to fit the file. Maybe the stone takes too little from the gullet, maybe it takes too much .......... hard to tell by your post, but a picture sure would help out here.

4. 30/60 is pretty standard, lately I have used and seen angles from 30/60 to 20/50 ............ all with great results, depending on the type of wood you cut. Find what works good for you !!

 

[Scandy14]

I do sharpen my own. Try to keep them touched up when I'm in the woods to. I do pretty good with a hand file. My uncle taught me when i was around 13. Just thought I'd treat my chains to a good pro job. Lol.

Do any of you guys sharpen by file exclusively? It's all we have done for years. We aren't what you would consider pros though. Just on the farm and such.mSome guy at work told me I should have them ground every third hand sharpen so I thought I'd give it a try.

Think ill have a talk with the owner and see what he has to say.

There is a learning curve to do them correctly by hand, but once you learn, NOBODY can do them better. A very good, inexpensive (<$5.00) tool is a Calton-File-O Plate, and it will help to achieve great results. There are many other simple guides that will help you as we'll. I would not consider sending my chains to anyone. Nothing better than seeing fat chips flying through wood with a chain that you sharpened. Instant gratification! Good luck.

 

[archminer]

P.S. what happened with the OP and the dealer?

i took them back and they more or less said i was just trying to a free chain sharpen. took me about 10 min to convince him otherwise. he took them back and said he would check them. after this, my bussiness will go elsewhere. i will not be called a liar.

 

[Skaffine]

does anyone round grind ,then a swipe or 2 with a file to clean up the tooth edge ?

for what it's worth, wildland firefighters are required to pass a 40-hour course before handling a saw, and the instructor (sent from Stihl) makes them hand file their chains UNTIL ONE ANGLE ONLY is reflected in the sunlight - he says two or more angles on the face of the tooth indicate less-than-optimal filing - it's got to be the same angle on every tooth, every time. I don't think you could achieve anything close to that with a swipe or two of a file, after round grinding.