used motor oil for bar oil

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Typically bar oil is sae 30 weight with Hi -Tack additives. Of course used motor oil is filthy and stinks but if its clean then knock your filthy stinky ass out, maybe just add some Hi-Tack, which is to slow down fling off. You do notice the extra used motor oil smell along with all the other fumes associated with chainsaws and it makes the saw look real nasty.
 
I don't think I'm going to get cancer from used oil.
I don't think it's going to kill every blade of grass and tree for miles around.
I don't think the bar is going to fall off my saw in a matter of minutes.

I wonder how many gallons of bar oil are sold in north america every year?

Is everyone who buys one wasting their money?

I don't use used oil for the same reason I don't buy oil for my truck at wally world, or mix oil at a yard sale.

Why would you? I don't want to take the chance. Maybe used oil doesn't hurt anything, but I'm pretty sure that proper bar oil isn't going to.:dizzy:
 
Back to being serious. Those of you that cut in freezing or colder weather are probably aware that if you use heavy bar oil,it gets pretty stiff in the winter. Those of you who are not, please make sure you use thinner or winterized oil. Thick oil can do several things,if the saw is left out side it can stiffen up pretty good. Even good bar oil that is really cold can cause damage to your pump. Also please check your bar grooves and oil hole in the bar. Make sure they are clean and run the saw just a little against an object that you can see the oil being slung off. Personally I do not believe good new oil(motor or bar)will harm the saw. Just make sure what ever you use is getting to the bar and doing its job.
 
Go ahead and use that Obama oil if you want, coutryboy, but it is still rediculous that people are arguing over a few dollars a year in savings with nasty used oil vs clean bar oil. If you are that broke, then maybe you need to get a second job at McDonald's or something.

It is still the same principle as with autos. You are paying big bucks for the equipment and then trying to spend pennies on lubricants.

It is your equipment. Treat it how you want, but don't throw darts at me for calling a spade a spade.:givebeer:
 
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I think it's comical that people make comparisons like this.

The engine in your car is a lot more complicated, it's a larger percentage of the vehicle cost to replace it. Sure, it seems absurd to save $20 a year at the risk of a $10,000 engine replacement; but it's not quite as absurd when you start to get into the arena of saving $25 a year at the risk of a $50 bar/chain replacement or $50 for an oil pump.

For the most part, oil is oil, regular motor oil will lubricate a bar and chain just as good as b&c oil. Even without the tackifiers the parts are still being lubricated. Tackifiers don't matter a whole lot at 13,000 rpm, the oil is still slinging off the end. An oil pump will even pump regular oil just fine. Putting aside the safety/environmental arguments (which I personally don't buy into) the only thing that I would imagine may cause problems would be particulates in the oil. 99% of the particulates are small enough that they likely won't harm anything, especially the B&C. Think about it, the B&C is already covered in particulates (chips, dust, dirt, worn metal particles from one or the other etc); the addition of more particulates isn't going to make a noticeable difference because the oil isn't being recycled, it's there to lubricate the B&C for a few passes of the chain and it is then washed away by the new oil streaming in. The oil used in a chainsaw for B&C is a sacrificial oil that is used to wash away other particulates and foreign materials.

Comparing a cars engine to the B&C of chainsaw is completely ludicrous; if you really think they're a similar comparison then you clearly don't understand how one or the other, or even both of them work.
Have you ever used, used motor oil in a chainsaw?It makes a freakin mess!I have used it, and it is like pouring the darkest chocolate, but thin as water and gets all over everthing.The fact that it is almost as thin as water, but being a petroleum product, allows it to still stick.We all overpour our oil occasionally, and old motor oil is bad.Once you spill it, it gets in every nook and cranny and makes it black.It will turn a nice clean saw to a dirty looking saw in no time.Why ANYONE would consider anything with it except burning it, is rediculous.It`s had its course, it`s used up.Throw it out or burn it!!I`ve got a few gallons in the garage, I`ll send it to you if you want.I`ll guarantee you will only use it once, unless you don`t care about you saw...
 
It really amazes me that people will pay big money for a saw and then discuss something so rediculous as putting used oil on the bar. Many do the same with cars. They buy a $30,000+ car and put cheap Wal Mart oil in it vs a good quality synthetic or something that will take care of their investment.

If you are sucker enough to pay $15 for a gallon of bar oil, then so be it, but bar oil can be had generally a couple times a year on sale at farm stores for $6 or $7 dollars a gallon.

Actual bar oil flings off badly enough. I cannot even imagine what a mess that used oil makes. The cancer, environment etc. etc. is pure nonsense unless you are bathing in the stuff, but is just another reason not to use the old oil.

I'll stick to the real thing for my use.

I think it's comical that people make comparisons like this.

The engine in your car is a lot more complicated, it's a larger percentage of the vehicle cost to replace it. Sure, it seems absurd to save $20 a year at the risk of a $10,000 engine replacement; but it's not quite as absurd when you start to get into the arena of saving $25 a year at the risk of a $50 bar/chain replacement or $50 for an oil pump.

For the most part, oil is oil, regular motor oil will lubricate a bar and chain just as good as b&c oil. Even without the tackifiers the parts are still being lubricated. Tackifiers don't matter a whole lot at 13,000 rpm, the oil is still slinging off the end. An oil pump will even pump regular oil just fine. Putting aside the safety/environmental arguments (which I personally don't buy into) the only thing that I would imagine may cause problems would be particulates in the oil. 99% of the particulates are small enough that they likely won't harm anything, especially the B&C. Think about it, the B&C is already covered in particulates (chips, dust, dirt, worn metal particles from one or the other etc); the addition of more particulates isn't going to make a noticeable difference because the oil isn't being recycled, it's there to lubricate the B&C for a few passes of the chain and it is then washed away by the new oil streaming in. The oil used in a chainsaw for B&C is a sacrificial oil that is used to wash away other particulates and foreign materials.

Comparing a cars engine to the B&C of chainsaw is completely ludicrous; if you really think they're a similar comparison then you clearly don't understand how one or the other, or even both of them work.

I didn't get that comparison at all. What I got was that he was comparing the mentality that some people have of spending a lot money on something then treating it like junk by not caring for it properly. And good chainsaws are expensive.
 
I didn't get that comparison at all. What I got was that he was comparing the mentality that some people have of spending a lot money on something then treating it like junk by not caring for it properly. And good chainsaws are expensive.

:agree2:
 
I worked with an outfit that strictly used the used motor oil for bar oil. They had tons of nasty greasy drippy jugs of the stuff. The best was one of the old jugs they used leaked which was about once a month or so.
Its not a bad idea save for the stuff in the oil from the motor it was in. I don't seem to remember those guys going through oil pumps and they didn't filter it.
I run my used oil through a 5 micron filter and then dump it straight in the tank of my 7.3. I went through a 55 gal drum over the summer mixing it with desiel.
 
Go ahead and use that Obama oil if you want, coutryboy, but it is still rediculous that people are arguing over a few dollars a year in savings with nasty used oil vs clean bar oil. If you are that broke, then maybe you need to get a second job at McDonald's or something.

It is still the same principle as with autos. You are paying big bucks for the equipment and then trying to spend pennies on lubricants.

It is your equipment. Treat it how you want, but don't throw darts at me for calling a spade a spade.:givebeer:
Obama oil? WTH does this discusion have to do with the POTUS? You seem to have some problems...

BTW, I don't use used motor oil in my saws; I'm just approaching this from a non-biased technical background and the people that try to make comparisons between cars and chainsaws either don't have a technical background, or they aren't using it properly.

Maybe still the same "principle" as with autos, but it's not the same. Like I pointed out, and you clearly didn't understand, a full engine replacement in an auto is going to cost you $5-10k. 2 points considering that, #1, cheap oil has the possibility to damage an engine much more than it does a bar/chain/oil-pump on a saw because of the tight tolerances and soft bearings. If you still don't get that then you clearly don't understand how engines (or chainsaws) work, #2, trying to save $20 a year on oil at the risk of a $10,000 engine replacement is completely different than trying to save $20 a year at the risk of much cheaper repairs. If you still don't understand that then you aren't thinking about it; it's really simple to understand.



Have you ever used, used motor oil in a chainsaw?It makes a freakin mess!I have used it, and it is like pouring the darkest chocolate, but thin as water and gets all over everthing.The fact that it is almost as thin as water, but being a petroleum product, allows it to still stick.We all overpour our oil occasionally, and old motor oil is bad.Once you spill it, it gets in every nook and cranny and makes it black.It will turn a nice clean saw to a dirty looking saw in no time.Why ANYONE would consider anything with it except burning it, is rediculous.It`s had its course, it`s used up.Throw it out or burn it!!I`ve got a few gallons in the garage, I`ll send it to you if you want.I`ll guarantee you will only use it once, unless you don`t care about you saw...

We're not discussing the mess it makes, we're discussing whether or not it will damage the saw, and as long as there aren't any large particulates in the oil it's not going to damage a thing.

Gotta love this little gem, "It`s had its course, it`s used up." :bang: Really? You don't have a clue at all about lubricants do you? Once you get a clue maybe your unexpert opinion will matter a little more but until then don't try to act like you know a whole lot about lubrication when you clearly don't.


I didn't get that comparison at all. What I got was that he was comparing the mentality that some people have of spending a lot money on something then treating it like junk by not caring for it properly. And good chainsaws are expensive.

Who said they aren't treating it properly? I think this whole thread can be considered a discussion of whether or not using used motor oil could be considered "treating it properly". The only down-side to using used motor-oil is that it does, in fact, make a big mess. But as long as the operator cleans the saw up it doesn't make any difference. You're making a false conclusion that using used motor oil is not proper, when in fact, you should be presenting evidence to support your claim that using used motor oil isn't proper.

I'm not recommending that anybody should use used motor oil, I already admitted that I don't use it myself. I'm just presenting information so that people can make up their own mind on using it. It's not going to hurt your chainsaw; comparing an engine with tight tolerances and soft bearings to a chainsaw with very, very loose tolerances and a hardened steel b&c is not an accurate comparison as far as the actual mechanics of b&c vs. motor oil goes. Rather than make unsubstantiated claims about "not taking care of equipment" and "you wouldn't do that to your car" why not actually present some information on it?
 
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Gee Countryboy, aren't we touchy. No one is comparing chainsaws to cars technically. It is just pure logic and principle. Why would you take an expensive piece of equipment and use crap in it.

And no, you are not the only one that knows anything about lubricants. You mouth at those of us who say it is crazy to use old oil, and then admit that you don't even use it! Unbiased-I don't think so.
 
Gee Countryboy, aren't we touchy. No one is comparing chainsaws to cars technically. It is just pure logic and principle. Why would you take an expensive piece of equipment and use crap in it.
That shows my point exactly, you continue to claim that using used motor oil for B&C oil is equivalent to using crap, but you can't support any of that claim, you have yet to provide any evidence. All you can say is, "You shouldn't do it because your chainsaw is an expensive piece of equipment." Yet, if you came across somebody on the street that said, "You shouldn't ever run synthetic oil in an engine because it's crap." you would laugh at him until you couldn't breath anymore and then when you caught your breath you would ask him for his supporting evidence, of which he has none.


And no, you are not the only one that knows anything about lubricants. You mouth at those of us who say it is crazy to use old oil, and then admit that you don't even use it! Unbiased-I don't think so.
How is that biased? To me that seems like a completely unbiased source there, I have no personal interest in running used motor oil and my feelings aren't going to be hurt if somebody does or doesn't use it because I never have myself. Just how is that biased? I think you confused the words biased and un-biased... look up the definitions.

I'm still waiting on your evidence also. Can you please provide some evidence to support your claim that used motor oil is crap?
 
Obama oil? WTH does this discusion have to do with the POTUS? You seem to have some problems...

BTW, I don't use used motor oil in my saws; I'm just approaching this from a non-biased technical background and the people that try to make comparisons between cars and chainsaws either don't have a technical background, or they aren't using it properly.

Maybe still the same "principle" as with autos, but it's not the same. Like I pointed out, and you clearly didn't understand, a full engine replacement in an auto is going to cost you $5-10k. 2 points considering that, #1, cheap oil has the possibility to damage an engine much more than it does a bar/chain/oil-pump on a saw because of the tight tolerances and soft bearings. If you still don't get that then you clearly don't understand how engines (or chainsaws) work, #2, trying to save $20 a year on oil at the risk of a $10,000 engine replacement is completely different than trying to save $20 a year at the risk of much cheaper repairs. If you still don't understand that then you aren't thinking about it; it's really simple to understand.





We're not discussing the mess it makes, we're discussing whether or not it will damage the saw, and as long as there aren't any large particulates in the oil it's not going to damage a thing.

Gotta love this little gem, "It`s had its course, it`s used up." :bang: Really? You don't have a clue at all about lubricants do you? Once you get a clue maybe your unexpert opinion will matter a little more but until then don't try to act like you know a whole lot about lubrication when you clearly don't.




Who said they aren't treating it properly? I think this whole thread can be considered a discussion of whether or not using used motor oil could be considered "treating it properly". The only down-side to using used motor-oil is that it does, in fact, make a big mess. But as long as the operator cleans the saw up it doesn't make any difference. You're making a false conclusion that using used motor oil is not proper, when in fact, you should be presenting evidence to support your claim that using used motor oil isn't proper.

I'm not recommending that anybody should use used motor oil, I already admitted that I don't use it myself. I'm just presenting information so that people can make up their own mind on using it. It's not going to hurt your chainsaw; comparing an engine with tight tolerances and soft bearings to a chainsaw with very, very loose tolerances and a hardened steel b&c is not an accurate comparison as far as the actual mechanics of b&c vs. motor oil goes. Rather than make unsubstantiated claims about "not taking care of equipment" and "you wouldn't do that to your car" why not actually present some information on it?
The fact is it can hurt your chainsaw.Viscosity is the resistance to flow or thickness of an oil.Chainsaw bar oil has a high viscosity.Motor oil that has been in your engine for 10,000 miles has lost much of its viscosity.Heating and cooling the oil reduces viscosity.It loses it ability to stick.The used oil also has metal and dirt particles in it.Used motor oil will not stick to the bar and chain like new Bar oil can.Bar oil has additives designed to do just what it does, lube the bar and stick to the bar.Runnig your saw with used oil will lead to the bar wearing quicker.Plain ansd simple.Maybe some of you don`t consider overheating your bar and chain, damage, but I do.It will wear the bar out faster.All this was said previously.It WILL wear your bar and chain faster....
 
The fact is it can hurt your chainsaw.Viscosity is the resistance to flow or thickness of an oil.Chainsaw bar oil has a high viscosity.Motor oil that has been in your engine for 10,000 miles has lost much of its viscosity.Heating and cooling the oil reduces viscosity.
Yes, it is certainly less viscous, but my point is that the viscosity doesn't make a large impact. In an engine? Yes, viscosity is huge, on a b&c, no it doesn't matter much. Yes, the oil slings off more easily, but as pointed out earlier, it doesn't matter much when the saw is turning 13k rpms, even B&C oil slings off at that speed. The oil residue is still there however, and that is where the lubrication comes from. B&C oil that slings off is supposed to sling off, that is how it carries the particulates away from the b&c.

The used oil also has metal and dirt particles in it.
And your chainsaw bar doesn't already have those? That was one of my points in my original reply. Those particulates may be detrimental in an engine, but those particles don't matter on a chainsaw unless they're HUGE (relatively speaking), that is why cars have oil-filters and chainsaws don't. Chainsaw only have a small screen to prevent large particles from clogging the pump etc. Don't you think that if it was really that important to keep tiny particles out that they would install full-size oil-filters on saws? Most particles in used motor oil are comprised of worn bearing material. Bearing are soft metals that actually have lubricating properties on their own (bronze). Those particles are not going to cause any detrimental effects on your b&c.

Runnig your saw with used oil will lead to the bar wearing quicker.Plain ansd simple.Maybe some of you don`t consider overheating your bar and chain, damage, but I do.It will wear the bar out faster.All this was said previously.It WILL wear your bar and chain faster....
Proof? Have you done any scientifically controlled studies or do you have any results from such studies?

Even if your b&c does wear faster, how much faster? Hypothetically speaking, if your claim of increased wear is true, lets compare the economics of it. We'll say that you reduce your b&c lifetime by 10%.

Jim Bob has a 25 inch b&c on his saw, he cuts enough wood to go through 3 chains and 1 bar every year, at a cost of $100. While cutting with those chains and bars he burns... oh let's say 12 gallons of b&c oil per year on those. Even the cheap TSC oil costs him $6/gal so his cost on oil is $72/year.

Now, Jim Bob is thinking running used motor oil that he gets for free (some could even counter that they normally have to pay to dispose of used oil but we'll ignore that) when he changes his oil. He buys his bar and chains for $100, but only gets 90% of the life out of them. So his cost for 90% of a year is $100 vs. his cost of $154.80 for 90% of a year when running b&c oil in his saw.

His cost savings on oil more than makes up for any additional wear on the b&c, as a matter of fact, using used oil would need to cause 42% more wear before it becomes economically equal to run either oil. Of course that scenario is hypothetical and the consumption numbers may not completely line up, every saw and user is different, but it demonstrates my point exactly.
 
so what about using hydraulic fluid, do you think that would work good because i got 5 gallons of it i dont need

Still going to make more mess, just not as black as used motor oil...

As far as actual lubricating properties, I would say it would be equivalent to b&c oil and motor oil.
 
so what about using hydraulic fluid, do you think that would work good because i got 5 gallons of it i dont need

LOL!!!

I take you don't have an older tractor that constantly drips a bit.:D

Hydro works great for thinning the cheapo TSC and wally world Bar oil when it gets below 20 or so.

Run straight, in warm weather, hydro flings like mad and gets everywhere, but works well enough if ya don't mind.

Ya got a farm buddy that will trade ya 3 jugs of cheap bar oil?

How about a cuttin' buddy with a splitter?

I'd jump on that in a heartbeat if you were closer.:D

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
If I ever get a gallon of squirrel pizz gathered up, I'm gonna try that instead of oil.

Makes as much sense to me as used motor oil.

I'll let you know how I make out........:dizzy:
 
Yes, it is certainly less viscous, but my point is that the viscosity doesn't make a large impact. In an engine? Yes, viscosity is huge, on a b&c, no it doesn't matter much. Yes, the oil slings off more easily, but as pointed out earlier, it doesn't matter much when the saw is turning 13k rpms, even B&C oil slings off at that speed. The oil residue is still there however, and that is where the lubrication comes from. B&C oil that slings off is supposed to sling off, that is how it carries the particulates away from the b&c.


And your chainsaw bar doesn't already have those? That was one of my points in my original reply. Those particulates may be detrimental in an engine, but those particles don't matter on a chainsaw unless they're HUGE (relatively speaking), that is why cars have oil-filters and chainsaws don't. Chainsaw only have a small screen to prevent large particles from clogging the pump etc. Don't you think that if it was really that important to keep tiny particles out that they would install full-size oil-filters on saws? Most particles in used motor oil are comprised of worn bearing material. Bearing are soft metals that actually have lubricating properties on their own (bronze). Those particles are not going to cause any detrimental effects on your b&c.


Proof? Have you done any scientifically controlled studies or do you have any results from such studies?

Even if your b&c does wear faster, how much faster? Hypothetically speaking, if your claim of increased wear is true, lets compare the economics of it. We'll say that you reduce your b&c lifetime by 10%.

Jim Bob has a 25 inch b&c on his saw, he cuts enough wood to go through 3 chains and 1 bar every year, at a cost of $100. While cutting with those chains and bars he burns... oh let's say 12 gallons of b&c oil per year on those. Even the cheap TSC oil costs him $6/gal so his cost on oil is $72/year.

Now, Jim Bob is thinking running used motor oil that he gets for free (some could even counter that they normally have to pay to dispose of used oil but we'll ignore that) when he changes his oil. He buys his bar and chains for $100, but only gets 90% of the life out of them. So his cost for 90% of a year is $100 vs. his cost of $154.80 for 90% of a year when running b&c oil in his saw.

His cost savings on oil more than makes up for any additional wear on the b&c, as a matter of fact, using used oil would need to cause 42% more wear before it becomes economically equal to run either oil. Of course that scenario is hypothetical and the consumption numbers may not completely line up, every saw and user is different, but it demonstrates my point exactly.

What about the oil under the chain?What about the tip, the rim sprocket?So it`s ok to add more dirt and particles?How about the oil pump?Is it designed to pump metal shavings and dirt.Viscosity and tact do matter.All the oil doesn`t get flung off.Thats why it`s important to use oil with a higher viscosity and tact.New oil sticks better, thus protecting, lubing and cooling the bar and chain better.If you use motor oil that is too thin you also run the risk of running out of oil before the saw runs out of fuel.And, oh ya, if your brother Jim Bob is so smart and uses old stinkin motor oil in his saw, why don`t you.I don`t need a scientific study, I just told you the reasons why new oil works better than oil motor oil.It`s common sense.The used oil has lost much of it lubing capabilities.It CAN~T work the same.It is inferior to new bar oil..There are at least 10 reasons not to use it, and only one reason to use it.Price...
 
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