Using the right chain

[Jasonrkba]

Im cutting up what I believe to be some sort of oak. (Im terrible at distinguishing). I am using Oregon EX full chisel. Im going through chain really fast. I've used three different saws to rule that out and its the same on all three. Is this the proper chain for the application?

Thanks. Jason.

 

[2StrokeFondler]

Define "really fast".
Is it really dry and has a lot of dirt in the bark?

 

[J D]

Post up some good close up pic's of your sharpened chain... if you're not getting it properly sharp it will dull far more quickly. Full chisel will also be less forgiving than semi chisel

 

[Dennisthemenace]

It's small wood, perhaps get a bigger saw and put 404 on it

 

[Jasonrkba]

I get about a tank before I need to touch it up. I'm no BBR but I do a sufficient job sharpening. I've even used both round file and my grinder. Dirty bark is very likely. This was moved from a spot where it was rolled around in dirt.

 

[Gord404]

I get about a tank before I need to touch it up. I'm no BBR but I do a sufficient job sharpening. I've even used both round file and my grinder. Dirty bark is very likely. This was moved from a spot where it was rolled around in dirt.

Yup, dirt that will do it

 

[Jasonrkba]

So do you guys just fight through it, or have a system for removing the bark first? Or a mix of both?

 

[TRTermite]

We have 4 different types of soil around here. Some has a sandy composition. When the tree has been hoed or dozed out I sometimes use a hatchet to clear the intended cut line, (Crowding the root ball/stump) a favorite tool I use for this is an old single bit axe head and a 10 inch piece of square tube (1" x 1" x 1/8") welded to the side Of the head (90 degrees From the original handle) . This tool was first concocted to use at the sawmill to clean the bark and it has found its' way into the truck. Another is a broken up ice scraper/brush ( we have plenty in the salvage yard). the bristles are short, stiff and narrow enough to get the dirt in the bark. Main objective is to keep the dirt out of the cut as it will quickly take the point off of a full chisel tooth. A wedge helps keep the kerf /cut open and the sawdust/chip clears as well as the sand/dirt so it isn't stewing in the cut dulling your chain. I sometimes bore in so I minimize contact with the dirt but not easy to explain. After 50 or 60 years it gets to be like cats arses/corncobs and turpentine,, ya know it works so ya jest do it. However you cut the wood the main focus is to work safe. I would suggest you try a semi chisel chain.. and if you have sharpened the chains to midway keep an eye on the drags.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I like the axe head idea. We have a stump and tree dump here on the farm. The local tree service guys dump here and I pull out the good stuff for firewood. Its usually been pushed around by a dozer by the time I get to it.

 

[Seachaser]

There’s no replacement for displacement.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I like the axe head idea. We have a stump and tree dump here on the farm. The local tree service guys dump here and I pull out the good stuff for firewood. Its usually been pushed around by a dozer by the time I get to it.

Semi chisel certainly isn't going to perform like full chisel even well sharpened, but it will continue to cut longer with the same performance longer than full chisel.
.404 is my weapon of choice for stumping a semi or micro semi will cut dirty wood all day . The full chisel .404 is also very forgiving.
I've swapped out Oregon tips on a 063 bar as small as 24" for dirty firewood duty. Even a 20" bar on an older saw would be set up in .404.

 

[Jasonrkba]

There’s no replacement for displacement.

So pressure wash?

 

[muddy42]

Sharpen after a tank of fuel isn't unusual, I'd just keep going like that. I'd scrape of any really bad mud and stones, but removing the bark completely would take too much time. Get semi chisel chain next time.

 

[Seachaser]

So pressure wash?

No, a big saw will outcut a small saw all day long. Match the saw to the job.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

Semi-chisel chain will definitely last longer between touch ups in dirty wood. However, if the chain is lasting a full tank, I usually just continue to touch up after every tank. I'm usually ready for a break after a full tank anyway. Touching up the chain gives me a breather. If the chains aren't lasting a whole tank, then I would look into semi-chisel chain. If that doesn't help then I would look into either removing the bark or removing the dirt somehow. If we get really dirty logs, we usually set them aside up off the ground(set on other logs) and let the rain hit them a few times. That usually gets them clean enough to buck.

 

[tJKrider]

Im going through chain really fast.

I would suggest you try a semi chisel chain

Get semi chisel chain next time

I'm not an everyday user, but exclusively use semi-chisel since the wood I cut more often than not has been sitting on the ground for awhile. I like the Stihl chains (even on non-Stihl saws) although that admittedly may be psychological... It cuts fast enough for me as I don't really care or am impacted by any time advantages.

 

[Chuckshu]

No one mentioned the Stihl carbide chain.
I mostly run the 33RD3 chains and I rarely need to have them sharpened, dirty wood or not. The local Ace Hardware charges $7 to sharpen them. You can not touch them up. I have read posters say that carbide is slower. If they do cut slower, I have not noticed and do not mind. I mostly cut dead ash, hickory and oak for firewood. They are more costly. They sell for around $100 for a 20" (33RD3-72) 3/8 .050 at Ace. You can get them on Ebay for about $75.
One other thing to note, they barely take off any material when they sharpen them. My guess is they will stretch beyond use long before the cutters wear out.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I like the axe head idea. We have a stump and tree dump here on the farm. The local tree service guys dump here and I pull out the good stuff for firewood. Its usually been pushed around by a dozer by the time I get to it.

Bet your Family 4th of July Bonfire is a sky star!

 

[Captain Bruce]

No one mentioned the Stihl carbide chain.
I mostly run the 33RD3 chains and I rarely need to have them sharpened, dirty wood or not. The local Ace Hardware charges $7 to sharpen them. You can not touch them up. I have read posters say that carbide is slower. If they do cut slower, I have not noticed and do not mind. I mostly cut dead ash, hickory and oak for firewood. They are more costly. They sell for around $100 for a 20" (33RD3-72) 3/8 .050 at Ace. You can get them on Ebay for about $75.
One other thing to note, they barely take off any material when they sharpen them. My guess is they will stretch beyond use long before the cutters wear out.

Ace Hardware charges $7 to sharpen them? EVERYBODY charges 7 bucks, to sharpen ANY type of chain tooth. Thats no measure of quality.

I'll bet your ACE Buddy isn't doing much more than selling a Saturday regular, more chains.........while making 7 bucks for the cart boy.

Carbide chains are far superior, the top of the PRO food chain, and would last the lifetime of a poke n hope weekend warrior woodsman. Sharpening them is rare unless wire, or stone gets hit.

Heres another perspective, from a Senior Woodsman.
Carbide tipped chain is designed for rescue and demolition work, it will cut clean wood but is slow. It does need to be sharpened periodically but very few shops are equipped to do it. Stihl and Rapco are the only manufacturers I am aware of. At over three bucks a link, I suggest a box of files and learn how to use them.

Good Luck with those exotic chains!!

 

[huskihl]

I like the axe head idea. We have a stump and tree dump here on the farm. The local tree service guys dump here and I pull out the good stuff for firewood. Its usually been pushed around by a dozer by the time I get to it.

Find a clean spot, bore in, cut down the front half, shove the bar in, and cut the far side with the top of the bar. It’s common on landings and at mills to cut like that. Basically, you always want to hit the dirty spots from the inside out so the sawdust knocks the dirt off before the chain hits it.