Walker muffler 346xpg

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SWE#Kipp

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Got my muffler from Walker today , so now i need some help with the carb adjustment =)
would really appreciate some suggestions !

/Kristoffer
 
Richen the carb by turning right one, The "L" is for Low jet the "H" is for "high jet".
I belive the "H" controls the fuel in to the carb, so to speak.

Look at manufactuers web, they have all can tell you better than me.
 
Last edited:
Carb

Well I'm just a little afraid of ruining the saw ,,,,,:p
so i just want to be sure i do it right !!!

/ Kristoffer
 
First adjust your L ( lo speed ) to around one turn,to get a steady idle .The main thing is to adjust the H (hi-speed) needle.Adjust your saw to stop the "blubbering" (four stroking ).AS SOON the blubber stop holding the saw at full RPM,stop playing the with the screw.You should be set OK.You ll be probably be around one turn also on this needle after setting.
 
It's a good thing to be able to tune a saw yourself. You just have to learn what to listen for and do it, or if your not confident, take it to a shop. A simple carb adjustment shouldn't cost much and they might just do it for you while you wait.
Basically, as you screw the high speed in, it runs faster. Too fast and it blows up. Conversely, as you screw the high speed out it runs slower. Too slow and it loses power, smokes, wastes gas, and carbons up.
The proper RPM is where it just starts to four stroke. Listen to the Madsens sound clip and then adjust it at wide open throttle with a bar and chain on.
If the low speed is screwed in too far it won't idle. If it's out too far, it will stall when you idle it for a bit (30 seconds) and then move it around (quickly tip it forward).
You can also buy a tachometer. This will allow you to adjust the saw exactly to manufacturer's recommendation. A decent one costs around $100.
 
carb setting

the carb is adjusted at a shop already after breaking in, i now wonder if i have do allot of changes on it when i got the opened up muffler ???

sry for all noobish questions :dizzy:

/Kristoffer
 
If you don't readjust the carb after changing the muffler, you will probably have a lean condition - very harmful for the saw.
 
okey does this mean i have cut those little wings of on the screws ??
 
okey does this mean i have cut those little wings of on the screws ??

That was my next question. On my 359 the tabs only allow 1/2 turns, and I frequently see references to one or a full turn out.

I can't even tell if mine will 4-stroke, unless it is so subtle that I am not picking up on it. I can't get it to replicate the sound you hear on Madsen's or anything close to a good burble.

If you clip off the tabs will that affect the saws ability to hold the settings (ie. do they serve to keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment?)
 
Probably, yes - but I am no expert on this issue.
One of the drawbacks of these limiters is that you don't really know where you are when starting the tuneing, makeing it all a guesswork.....
 
i think i'll wait until i can get a more accurate answer in this matter !
but thank you everybody who is showing interest in this question :)
 
SWE, If I was not sure about the setting,I would take it to my dealer or some one with a tach and let him adjust it or get a tach of my own. The dealer I use will put my saws on the tach and check them periodically and not charge anything. Good Luck- Kenny
 
Trimming the ears off the caps will not cause them to vibrate out of adjustment. Think about it. When the screws are set anywhere in between the max lean or max rich settings, the ears arent touching anything anyways. I have trimmed the ears off several saws that could not be richened up enough and have never had a problem. Many people (including husky) recommend pulling the limiter, setting the carb, and reinstalling it. Just trim the ears and you will have full adjustment without the worry of removing or reinstalling the caps.
 
Mange said:
Richen the carb by turning right, The "L" is for Low jet the "H" is for "high jet".
I belive the H control the fuel in to the carb, so to speak.

Look at manufactuers web, they have all can tell you better than me.

Ahem...turning right is lean, no? ;)
 
trimmmed said:
Ahem...turning right is lean, no? ;)

Oops :dizzy:
Thanks, Dave.
I edited the post.

Yes. I meant the right one, as in "H".
Turning the screw out (counter clockwise/left) lets more thou.
Sorry about that.
 
this means i have too turn it clockwise to not screw up my saw right ??

/Kristoffer :dizzy:
 
Brents post is right on.

I have 3 Huskys and I have pulled the caps off, ground them round and reinstalled them. I have a full range of adjustment and none have ever come off or even backed out in any way.

Just remember to pull them STRAIGHT off, do not rock them at all.
 
Do a search for the 346, about 2 years ago we had a huge 346 shoot out up in Canada and they are some strong little saws. Look for a post by Gypo logger he has some clips of EHP running the 346's.
 

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