Walker muffler 346xpg
- Thread starter SWE#Kipp
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Mange
Addicted to ArboristSite
Richen the carb by turning right one, The "L" is for Low jet the "H" is for "high jet".
I belive the "H" controls the fuel in to the carb, so to speak.
Look at manufactuers web, they have all can tell you better than me.
I belive the "H" controls the fuel in to the carb, so to speak.
Look at manufactuers web, they have all can tell you better than me.
Last edited:
SawTroll
Information Collector
This link might be helpful:
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
The user manual for the saw should be referred to in addition, but as Mange suggested, start a bit richer than the manual says.
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
The user manual for the saw should be referred to in addition, but as Mange suggested, start a bit richer than the manual says.
First adjust your L ( lo speed ) to around one turn,to get a steady idle .The main thing is to adjust the H (hi-speed) needle.Adjust your saw to stop the "blubbering" (four stroking ).AS SOON the blubber stop holding the saw at full RPM,stop playing the with the screw.You should be set OK.You ll be probably be around one turn also on this needle after setting.
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
It's a good thing to be able to tune a saw yourself. You just have to learn what to listen for and do it, or if your not confident, take it to a shop. A simple carb adjustment shouldn't cost much and they might just do it for you while you wait.
Basically, as you screw the high speed in, it runs faster. Too fast and it blows up. Conversely, as you screw the high speed out it runs slower. Too slow and it loses power, smokes, wastes gas, and carbons up.
The proper RPM is where it just starts to four stroke. Listen to the Madsens sound clip and then adjust it at wide open throttle with a bar and chain on.
If the low speed is screwed in too far it won't idle. If it's out too far, it will stall when you idle it for a bit (30 seconds) and then move it around (quickly tip it forward).
You can also buy a tachometer. This will allow you to adjust the saw exactly to manufacturer's recommendation. A decent one costs around $100.
Basically, as you screw the high speed in, it runs faster. Too fast and it blows up. Conversely, as you screw the high speed out it runs slower. Too slow and it loses power, smokes, wastes gas, and carbons up.
The proper RPM is where it just starts to four stroke. Listen to the Madsens sound clip and then adjust it at wide open throttle with a bar and chain on.
If the low speed is screwed in too far it won't idle. If it's out too far, it will stall when you idle it for a bit (30 seconds) and then move it around (quickly tip it forward).
You can also buy a tachometer. This will allow you to adjust the saw exactly to manufacturer's recommendation. A decent one costs around $100.
SawTroll
Information Collector
If you don't readjust the carb after changing the muffler, you will probably have a lean condition - very harmful for the saw.
Blowdown1
ArboristSite Operative
That was my next question. On my 359 the tabs only allow 1/2 turns, and I frequently see references to one or a full turn out.
I can't even tell if mine will 4-stroke, unless it is so subtle that I am not picking up on it. I can't get it to replicate the sound you hear on Madsen's or anything close to a good burble.
If you clip off the tabs will that affect the saws ability to hold the settings (ie. do they serve to keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment?)
SawTroll
Information Collector
Probably, yes - but I am no expert on this issue.
One of the drawbacks of these limiters is that you don't really know where you are when starting the tuneing, makeing it all a guesswork.....
One of the drawbacks of these limiters is that you don't really know where you are when starting the tuneing, makeing it all a guesswork.....
Brush Stomper
ArboristSite Member
SWE, If I was not sure about the setting,I would take it to my dealer or some one with a tach and let him adjust it or get a tach of my own. The dealer I use will put my saws on the tach and check them periodically and not charge anything. Good Luck- Kenny
Trimming the ears off the caps will not cause them to vibrate out of adjustment. Think about it. When the screws are set anywhere in between the max lean or max rich settings, the ears arent touching anything anyways. I have trimmed the ears off several saws that could not be richened up enough and have never had a problem. Many people (including husky) recommend pulling the limiter, setting the carb, and reinstalling it. Just trim the ears and you will have full adjustment without the worry of removing or reinstalling the caps.
Mange
Addicted to ArboristSite
trimmmed said:Ahem...turning right is lean, no?
Oops
Thanks, Dave.
I edited the post.
Yes. I meant the right one, as in "H".
Turning the screw out (counter clockwise/left) lets more thou.
Sorry about that.
If you turn clockwise,you are leaning the mixture on either Lo or Hi.SWE#Kipp said:this means i have too turn it clockwise to not screw up my saw right ??
/Kristoffer
Max
ArboristSite Operative
Brents post is right on.
I have 3 Huskys and I have pulled the caps off, ground them round and reinstalled them. I have a full range of adjustment and none have ever come off or even backed out in any way.
Just remember to pull them STRAIGHT off, do not rock them at all.
I have 3 Huskys and I have pulled the caps off, ground them round and reinstalled them. I have a full range of adjustment and none have ever come off or even backed out in any way.
Just remember to pull them STRAIGHT off, do not rock them at all.
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Do a search for the 346, about 2 years ago we had a huge 346 shoot out up in Canada and they are some strong little saws. Look for a post by Gypo logger he has some clips of EHP running the 346's.
