Webbing sling vs. Whoopie

[Guran]

I've just bought a webbing sling to anchor my pulley block when rigging:
View attachment 242332

Any upsides or downsides compared to deadeye sling or a whoopie?
Can imagine it's simple to use since you dont have ti re-tie it after every cut?

 

[oscar4883]

For blocking down you are not going to be able to get it tight to the cut. Dead eye slings and whoopies, etc., are cheap and designed for the work we do. In some applications that sling should work fine however.

 

[Guran]

For blocking down you are not going to be able to get it tight to the cut. Dead eye slings and whoopies, etc., are cheap and designed for the work we do. In some applications that sling should work fine however.

Hi Oscar.
I found this clip and wanted to try it: Arborist Block and RIgging - Prune Like a Pro - YouTube
Just seems lik a timer saver not have to re tie a cow or a tree hitch after every cut.

But what do you mean by "not able to get it tight to the cut"? Not close enough to the cut or is the choke not good enough to hold the weight?
Thanks in advance.

 

[imagineero]

It's worth noting that webbing slings degrade very quickly, and lose as much as 60% of their strength over a year or two. The reason is that 100% of the load bearing fibre is on the exterior surface, so it gets loaded with grit, abraded etc. It should also be noted that webbing slings are often rated to their breaking strain, not their working load limit. Make sure which yours is rated to. If it is rated to its breaking strain, for example, 2,000 lbs, then the safe working load of that sling will be approximately 1/5 of that figure, or 400lbs. If you are using it for heavy rigging and shock loading it, then the safe working load will only be 1/10 of its breaking strain, or around 200lbs.

By contrast, rigging slings (also called crane slings) have all the load bearing fibres on the inside of a protective sheath. They degrade very little, and are rated to their safe working load ie. a 2,200lb rigging sling will actually have a breaking strain of 11,000lbs. They are also very cheap, you can pick up a 2,200lb rigging sling for about $5.

Whoopie slings are good.

 

[climberjones]

Why would that guy put that steel ring directly on that block pulley? I believe that is a no no!:msp_scared:

 

[Guran]

It's worth noting that webbing slings degrade very quickly, and lose as much as 60% of their strength over a year or two. The reason is that 100% of the load bearing fibre is on the exterior surface, so it gets loaded with grit, abraded etc. It should also be noted that webbing slings are often rated to their breaking strain, not their working load limit. Make sure which yours is rated to. If it is rated to its breaking strain, for example, 2,000 lbs, then the safe working load of that sling will be approximately 1/5 of that figure, or 400lbs. If you are using it for heavy rigging and shock loading it, then the safe working load will only be 1/10 of its breaking strain, or around 200lbs.

By contrast, rigging slings (also called crane slings) have all the load bearing fibres on the inside of a protective sheath. They degrade very little, and are rated to their safe working load ie. a 2,200lb rigging sling will actually have a breaking strain of 11,000lbs. They are also very cheap, you can pick up a 2,200lb rigging sling for about $5.

Whoopie slings are good.

OK, looks like I've spend some money on wrong stuff. (again.....:bang
So webbing slings are not the preferred choice? But rigging/crane slings should be OK to use?
I have recently bought this one ( below) is that what you refer to as a rigging sling?
View attachment 242408

Thanks.

 

[treemandan]

Why would that guy put that steel ring directly on that block pulley? I believe that is a no no!:msp_scared:

Why? Well as MDS would would say " dude is ghey"

That set up was BS. Loose as a goose. What's with the ladder in the way? There was to much space between the block and the cut.

 

[Carburetorless]

With eyed slings or loopies or whoopies, you can put a bunch of them on the stem where you need them, and just move your block down as you go.

Takes a little time, but it makes things go quicker/easier once you start blocking it down.

You can leave the last one on and have your groundie round them up when he lowers the pieces down.

 

[KenJax Tree]

You don't need to rig anything just Murph that sum***** right across the sidewalk or driveway.

 

[Carburetorless]

You don't need to rig anything just Murph that sum***** right across the sidewalk or driveway.

How do you Murph a six hundred pounder?

 

[rtsims]

With eyed slings or loopies or whoopies, you can put a bunch of them on the stem where you need them, and just move your block down as you go.

Takes a little time, but it makes things go quicker/easier once you start blocking it down.

You can leave the last one on and have your groundie round them up when he lowers the pieces down.

I don't understand what your explaining here. I use my whoopie sling to attach my block to the spar, or limb. After the peice is lowered I loosen the whoopie and slide it and the block down to the next location. Maybe I missed something but I see no reason to pre set slings. That seems like more work than just settin them when you get there.

 

[KenJax Tree]

I don't understand what your explaining here. I use my whoopie sling to attach my block to the spar, or limb. After the peice is lowered I loosen the whoopie and slide it and the block down to the next location. Maybe I missed something but I see no reason to pre set slings. That seems like more work than just settin them when you get there.

I don't know him personally but many here call him Clueless Carby so that might explain it.

 

[Carburetorless]

I don't understand what your explaining here. I use my whoopie sling to attach my block to the spar, or limb. After the peice is lowered I loosen the whoopie and slide it and the block down to the next location. Maybe I missed something but I see no reason to pre set slings. That seems like more work than just settin them when you get there.

Are you telling me you've never had to remove your whoopie to get where you wanted it, or that you've never had to rig anything with more than one sling?

 

[rtsims]

First off you were referring to a spar in the post I quoted. In that situation, I rarely remove my whoopie unless I have to change it out for a bigger one as I move down. Secondly, when working a crown or out on a limb I usually remove it unless I'm using that rigging point multiple times. I was mainly questioning the reason for pre setting slings.

 

[Carburetorless]

First off you were referring to a spar in the post I quoted. In that situation, I rarely remove my whoopie unless I have to change it out for a bigger one as I move down. Secondly, when working a crown or out on a limb I usually remove it unless I'm using that rigging point multiple times. I was mainly questioning the reason for pre setting slings.

I've removed large limbs that had to be removed in chunks. I set 6 or 7 slings with shackles on all but the last one where I put the block, dropped the end chunk, left the sling on, moved the block to the next sling, swapped it out with the shackle and continued in that fashion until the limb was gone.

The whole thing looked sort of like a giant fishing pole from hell.

 

[Guran]

space between the block and the cut

Why? Well as MDS would would say " dude is ghey"

That set up was BS. Loose as a goose. What's with the ladder in the way? There was to much space between the block and the cut.

Hi Treemandan. So now we all now the set up was no good. (Even though the title of the clip was "Prune like a pro." :msp_smile: )
Can you please enlighten a total newbie why it's important to have the block as close to the cut as possible?
Is it to minimize the shock load when the weight is picked up by the rigging rope?
So many things to learn..... Thanks in advance.

 

[bootboy]

Hi Treemandan. So now we all now the set up was no good. (Even though the title of the clip was "Prune like a pro." :msp_smile: )
Can you please enlighten a total newbie why it's important to have the block as close to the cut as possible?
Is it to minimize the shock load when the weight is picked up be the rigging rope?
So many things to learn..... Thanks in advance.

I'll try to answer. The closer you have your block to the cut, the shorter the distance your work piece will fall and the less energy it will have before weighting the block, hence, reducing the distance means reducing the force on your rigging.

This is why I splice my own whoopies. If you can learn the skill (easy with a little practice) you can get tenex by-the-foot and make your own slings for only a few bucks a piece in a few minutes. I can splice and whip a whoopie in about 15-20 minutes. I have 2 or three of different sizes each in different diameter tenex so I have the flexibility to get a nice, tight, close fit to my cuts. If blocking a spar, after making a cut, it's pretty easy to loosen a whoopie and just slide it down the trunk and retighten it every couple feet. I recently did a 80' pine spar in tight quarters and only changed slings once. From about 10" up top to almost 30" at my lowest cut. The adjustability of a whoopie makes up for the time in the end of having to swap slings for every cut.

 

[Guran]

This is why I splice my own whoopies. If you can learn the skill (easy with a little practice) you can get and make your own slings for only a few bucks a piece in a few minutes. I can splice and whip a whoopie in about 15-20 minutes. I have 2 or three of different sizes each in different diameter tenex so I have the flexibility to get a nice, tight, close fit to my cuts.

Thanks boot. Any recommendations on diameter when making whoopies?
Samson Tenex TEC Rope

 

[bootboy]

5/8" is my go to but I have 2 slings in 1/2 for smaller limbs and poplar tops and a 3/4 for big spar chunks or cottonwood limbs.
Tenex is stupid strong for the price and you can use 5/8" for 90% of your (mine anyway) work.

 

[oscar4883]

I'll try to answer. The closer you have your block to the cut, the shorter the distance your work piece will fall and the less energy it will have before weighting the block, hence, reducing the distance means reducing the force on your rigging.

OP this is what I meant when I mentioned not being able to keep your sling tight to the cut.