If I get a round that I can't split by hand, I just burn it whole in the outdoor pit. Since I've never used a wedge/sledge to split, is there a proper way ? Do ya just pound the wedge in the middle of the round ?
Wedge and Sledge
- Thread starter Dale
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max2cam
ArboristSite Guru
Use two wedges as just one can get stuck. Look for an existing crack to work on. Avoid BIG knots.
daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
2 or MORE
Always start with more than one wedge available because you will get one stuck and have to burn it out.
Find an existing crack and put the wedge closer to the edge than the middle.
I have rarely found a round that I could not eventually kill with wedges. I split the easy stuff with a maul, it's easier and faster for the easy stuff.
If one gets stuck, just put your second wedge in a place that will spread the crack enough to get the first one out. Then repeat.
Always start with more than one wedge available because you will get one stuck and have to burn it out.
Find an existing crack and put the wedge closer to the edge than the middle.
I have rarely found a round that I could not eventually kill with wedges. I split the easy stuff with a maul, it's easier and faster for the easy stuff.
If one gets stuck, just put your second wedge in a place that will spread the crack enough to get the first one out. Then repeat.
blackdoggy
ArboristSite Operative
Here is how you do it in four easy steps.
1.Locate the crack
2.Place your wedge in line with the crack towards the edge of your log then tap in the wedge until it stays put. It helps to put a notch in the log with your maul or chainsaw before you try to put your wedge in.
1.Locate the crack
2.Place your wedge in line with the crack towards the edge of your log then tap in the wedge until it stays put. It helps to put a notch in the log with your maul or chainsaw before you try to put your wedge in.
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blackdoggy
ArboristSite Operative
3.Smack the heck out of it until it cracks.
4.Lastly once the crack has opened fully across the width of the log lay it on it's side and hit it with your maul along the crack towards the bottom.
4.Lastly once the crack has opened fully across the width of the log lay it on it's side and hit it with your maul along the crack towards the bottom.
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You can use a good heavy 6-8 lb maul as a wedge much like the post above, saves you having to start the wedge by hand. Have a wedge on hand in case the maul gets stuck........
Also don't forget safety glasses mauls/wedges will spit out pieces of steel when hit with a sledge.
Also don't forget safety glasses mauls/wedges will spit out pieces of steel when hit with a sledge.
blackdoggy
ArboristSite Operative
Don't forget a good heavy pair of jeans a few weeks ago a chunk of wedge head nailed me in the leg:censored: .
The Lorax
ArboristSite Guru
I like those wood grenades, they seem to be pretty effective on even knotty timber.
I find that chopping the edges off rounds makes them easier to split before going down the wedge/wood grenade route.
I find that chopping the edges off rounds makes them easier to split before going down the wedge/wood grenade route.
nicklt040
ArboristSite Operative
I ran across some laruel oak rounds (probably 35") I left a few of them there.to many knots. Had 2 wedges 8lbs sledge and a 28 year old back.Had to leave um. My log splitter had a hard time with the limb logs. I got some pictures after I got it down. It was a blow over. My first big job.
the ole 041 done its job.
I cant figure out the pictures yet.
the ole 041 done its job. I cant figure out the pictures yet.
blackdoggy
ArboristSite Operative
Post your photo to a site such as www.photobucket.com then remove the spaces in this [ IMG ] before the url then do the same with this [ / IMG ] after the url 
EastwoodGang4
ArboristSite Operative
Grind grind grind
Grind your wedges!!!!!!!!!!!!
I too have had pieces come off of wedges that were in poor condition. Luckily the fragments didn't hit myself or bystanders!!
Grind your wedges!!!!!!!!!!!!
I too have had pieces come off of wedges that were in poor condition. Luckily the fragments didn't hit myself or bystanders!!
If you have chunks coming off the wedge, it needs dressing down to get rid of the mushroom.
Your legs will take a beating with wood chunks bouncing off them too..
I find that my saw chaps work real well to avoid barked shins. Maybe not as much as shin guards but not as clumsy.
Harry K
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Plus if you leave turned over shards around the head and you go to pick your wedge up to carry it back to the house without gloves on you can cut the hell outta your hands. Done it once, won't do it again.
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Finding the way a round wants to split goes a long way to making splitting by hand look easier than it is. My father is approaching 60, and I'm amazed at how little effort he looks like he's exerting and we often split wood at 30" lengths.
The ability to read the wood combined with good aim can make all the difference.
Here's some more bits of advice I've picked up from watching over the years-
-Frozen wood splits easier (the grain cannot compress when frozen and less of the energy exerted is absorbed by the compression of fibers)
-Give the wood time to split, and by that I mean, after driving the wedge a couple times, give yourself and the wood a few seconds to rest. You know you're not waiting long enough if the wedge pops out on the next strike.
-Always have at least two wedges, sometimes ya need three... nothing more depressing than seeing a log with a couple of iron squares on the surface and no splits.
-Give it a couple strikes off before using a wedge... you might get lucky, and if not, you've got a good starting place for a wedge.
-Not necessary to keep a maul edge sharp... and while this may be personal preference, I find that splitting with a sharp maul only hinders me, especially when I miss my mark, I spend too much time prying the head out of where ever the hell I just sunk it.
-If you don't have a lot of experience, keep an eye on your maul handle close to the head... poor aim, like I had when I started doing this a lot ~10 years ago, can result in some impressive damage to the handle near the head, which can result in the head leaving the handle with high velocity in a dangerous fashion. I have a fiber glass handle that I've reinforced by putting a couple wraps of glass cloth and epoxy around the handle under the head and I don't think it'll ever come off now...
Kneejerk Bombas
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What I find work well is to use the saw to cut a grove about 2" deep on the outside of the round for the wedge to go in. It just takes a second or two and makes those big stubborn ones a little easier to get the wedge started.
wireedm
ArboristSite Operative
On the large logs...........don't even bother starting them in the middle.
Take pies off from the outside and work your way in. Doing it this way also allows you to handle the wood less.
Most important of all, practice, practice, practice!
Practice makes permanent you know, so don't practice it wrong.
Take pies off from the outside and work your way in. Doing it this way also allows you to handle the wood less.
Most important of all, practice, practice, practice!
Practice makes permanent you know, so don't practice it wrong.
It's been said here a few times, but I can't stress enough:
DRESS YOUR WEDGES!
The wedges shown in the pictures are mushroomed BAD. It only takes one piece zinging off to ruin your day (or more). I know one person who got hit just below the eye and needed surgery to repair it. My father got hit by a piece in the shin 30+ years ago, had to have two surgeries to remove / patch things, and still limps from it today.
On a lighter note, my 394XP does a wonderful job of ripping the rounds to a size that we can get onto the 35 ton splitter. That beast, with just a 20" bar and full-comp chain, will tear through 42" rounds faster than you can get the wedge set in the crack.
DRESS YOUR WEDGES!
The wedges shown in the pictures are mushroomed BAD. It only takes one piece zinging off to ruin your day (or more). I know one person who got hit just below the eye and needed surgery to repair it. My father got hit by a piece in the shin 30+ years ago, had to have two surgeries to remove / patch things, and still limps from it today.
On a lighter note, my 394XP does a wonderful job of ripping the rounds to a size that we can get onto the 35 ton splitter. That beast, with just a 20" bar and full-comp chain, will tear through 42" rounds faster than you can get the wedge set in the crack.
p575
ArboristSite Member
how do you dress a wedge? angle grinder? hand file? torch? blue jeans?
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