Wedge tip for bore cutting backleaners

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Nailsbeats

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Here's a little tip I'd like to pass on since I haven't seen it mentioned on this site.

Make your face cut, bore your backcut, set up your hinge thickness, cut towards the back leaving a strap of holding wood, pull out saw and place wedges in the backcut. Trip the strap by cutting in from the back but below your backcut a bit.

Here's the tip: slip a wedge or two into the trip cut so that it'll be supported while you pound your other wedges driving the tree over without any chance of setback and full wedge pounding efficiency.

:cheers:
 
how is that easier than a regular back cut with a wedge or two as soonas you can fitem in.


What you explain is like your cuttin a strong head leaner, but you use wedges cause its a back leaner, I no get-ee...:dizzy::dizzy:
 
how is that easier than a regular back cut with a wedge or two as soonas you can fitem in.


What you explain is like your cuttin a strong head leaner, but you use wedges cause its a back leaner, I no get-ee...:dizzy::dizzy:

I no understand too, are you falling a tree against its lean?
 
No Offence,

But as a Westcoast faller we rely on maby 3 Cuts , but down south they got some crazy ways of cutting .... i get confused sometimes just reading it id probally puke watching it.
 
Hey, I consider my self a down south cutter, but thoes crazy methods ar not me!

most east coast old timers believe that faces alone are over rated haha. you will find them match cutting most stuff. .
 
backleaners

I get what he is saying but I don't see it being any better that the normal way. I mean why would leave a strap to hold up the tree to get a wedge in, maybe dude is cutting small wood in a pulp land.
 
What's to be confused about? It's a pretty clear explanation of a technique used to get wedges in place on a 'backleaner'. I saw it demonstrated by some guys from Stihl back in the eighties and have used it a few times myself. I always place pull ropes high in the tree if there is any chance of property damage but if no high value targets are behind the tree it's a good woods felling technique for a backleaner.

When did so many homeowners start to populate the Forestry and logging forum?:laugh:

Sorry, but if its leaning that far back where I can't put a wedge in, I'll set a cable in it.

Ed
 
Sounds like a monkey with a football to me.
there is absolutely no need for a strap in smething that needs to be wedged over. Even in high risk residential settings.
Not to mention the strap would be right in the way of the best place to put the wedge.
 
Knowing you have to , and knowing you can .

If you know you have to wedge over a tree and it,s not big enough to face up first . put your back cut in first and as soon as you can put 2 wedges in it . back cut around 2/3 rds while keeping the wedges pounded up tight , then put in the face leaving a good size holding wood , and if needed take your tip and cut out the center of your holding wood . finish wedging the tree over ...
.
. Remember , a wedge is tight when it doesn't keep going in well ......Don,t over beat a wedge , use more ...
.
. No doubt the method first described is quite secure . but there are other ways that work better ...and are just as secure ..
 
If you know you have to wedge over a tree and it,s not big enough to face up first . put your back cut in first and as soon as you can put 2 wedges in it . back cut around 2/3 rds while keeping the wedges pounded up tight , then put in the face leaving a good size holding wood , and if needed take your tip and cut out the center of your holding wood . finish wedging the tree over ...
.
. Remember , a wedge is tight when it doesn't keep going in well ......Don,t over beat a wedge , use more ...
.
. No doubt the method first described is quite secure . but there are other ways that work better ...and are just as secure ..

Ahhh. Thanks. I've tried to understand that. I had a small maple sit back on my saw. A guy told me about doing that the next day, but I didn't understand because I usually need to see things done to understand. But, I do now. :clap:
 
If you know you have to wedge over a tree and it,s not big enough to face up first . put your back cut in first and as soon as you can put 2 wedges in it . back cut around 2/3 rds while keeping the wedges pounded up tight , then put in the face leaving a good size holding wood , and if needed take your tip and cut out the center of your holding wood . finish wedging the tree over ...
.
. Remember , a wedge is tight when it doesn't keep going in well ......Don,t over beat a wedge , use more ...
.
. No doubt the method first described is quite secure . but there are other ways that work better ...and are just as secure ..

This is correct, done it many times. WTF do arborists think they are fallers?:monkey:
 
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