What are you making with your milled wood?

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Anyone used their own milled wood for flooring or interior siding? We cut so much red pine I think I'd have enough for a floor or nice interior wall
We used Ash at a friend’s house for flooring came out real nice ,he used it as decking on the covered porch also
 
Really no problems with Honey Locust? The HL firewood I cut always gets Powder Post Beetles in it's sapwood.
Yeah that's an issue in my drying racks, the HL sapwood from a big yard tree that fell over is FULL of powder post holes. I'm rethinking having all my (30ish cords) wood in a big continuous U shaped rack....
 
I just cut and stack this Thursday and treated it with borax. Today I found a few dozen of these in the top slab. I assume it's getting into all of them. *Loooong sigh*

So how f**ked am I? Some of them may have been dead but I'm not sure, maybe the borax is killing them as they try to enter?
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Anyone used their own milled wood for flooring or interior siding? We cut so much red pine I think I'd have enough for a floor or nice interior wall
The brother of the guy I worked for had Ash boards arranged diagonally on on wall on the inside of his house. Simply beautiful.

P.S. I meant to say, I was told that interior wood paneling is 'dated'. My Dad's house had knotty pine wall paneling and the new owners painted it dark gray.
 
A few things I've build with wood I've milled in the past year. I'll be milling a bunch of lumber soon for a 28x40 addition to the red barn below.

16x40 lean to for hay storage.
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12x12 woodshed built off the house.
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Once I had that much wood in it I needed to add an 8x8 red oak beam under the mid-point of the woodshed floor to help alleviate deflection. :laugh:
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8x10x16' white oak beam for living room header.
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I like your live edge stuff. How did you mount that shelf unit to the wall? Screws though the 2x4s into studs?

The stock for your kids when they're bad?
I hung the shelves from a couple rings I screws into the back of the risers. The pillory is for when my wife gets out of line. JK, made for a Halloween decoration.
 
I just cut and stack this Thursday and treated it with borax. Today I found a few dozen of these in the top slab. I assume it's getting into all of them. *Loooong sigh*

So how f**ked am I? Some of them may have been dead but I'm not sure, maybe the borax is killing them as they try to enter?
Would buy some Timbor and spray them all. https://www.amazon.com/Tim-bor-Professional-Insecticide-Fungicide-1-5/dp/B09M2GHBBC Mostly I've found they've favored edge slabs, I've never had much problem with them trying to invade everything even when edge slabs have been riddled with them.
 
@Coralillo Lo Pro, can you educate me a little? I just bought a small 24" CSM to use with a 24" bar on my Stihl 038 (60 cc saw). Yes, I know it's under powered for most milling, but the logs I'd be milling (occasionally only), would be small 5' - 8' logs in the 14" - 24" dia. range. Plus I would not be cutting flitches (full width) but making a cut or two, and then squaring off the log to get a cant. From there, lumber.

The question is, you promote low pro chain setups. They are 0.050"? Do you need a special sprocket and bar to run lo-pro chains?
Thanks
If it's a 24" mill then you'll only be getting about 18" max width cut out of a 24" bar so not too much worry about overtaxing it on an occasional basis. I did a bunch of my milling with my 64cc Makita w a 36" lo pro bar, and it's still fine. Yeah, everything is annoyingly specific to lo pro setups. You need an .050 bar with a 3/8LP nose sprocket - a lo pro bar - and a 3/8LP drive sprocket. But the real inconvenience is next to nothing is available in the US. Chainsawbars.co.uk has the greatest selection of lo pro gear in the world and free shipping to the US over $180 orders - and gets here super fast - but you have to not mind ordering from England. This is the proper whole kit - 25" GB 3/8LP bar, rim sprocket, and two Panther lo pro chains. https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/snhds25-50wr-kit-2563cm-gb-lo-pro-milling-bar-kit/ It's more expensive than regular 3/8 but it's kind of niche stuff not produced on nearly the same scale is why. And if you only have one saw you want to do everything with, it's a small hassle switching out sprockets every time you want to go back to standard 3/8 gear. The other approach if you're not doing this a lot is just get 3/8LP ripping chain made up in the right links for your 24" bar - I could probably make up some to sell you - and run it on your regular 3/8 .050 sprocket and bar. It's the same link spacing, just different shaped drive links so it steadily wears out nose sprockets on a bar and drive sprockets by the slight mismatch. But takes awhile, and if it's just for the odd cant here and there, you could likely get away with it without much wear. You would not believe how fast you'll cut cants with it, that's the neat things about 3/8LP on a 60cc saw.
 
If it's a 24" mill then you'll only be getting about 18" max width cut out of a 24" bar so not too much worry about overtaxing it on an occasional basis. I did a bunch of my milling with my 64cc Makita w a 36" lo pro bar, and it's still fine. Yeah, everything is annoyingly specific to lo pro setups. You need an .050 bar with a 3/8LP nose sprocket - a lo pro bar - and a 3/8LP drive sprocket. But the real inconvenience is next to nothing is available in the US. Chainsawbars.co.uk has the greatest selection of lo pro gear in the world and free shipping to the US over $180 orders - and gets here super fast - but you have to not mind ordering from England. This is the proper whole kit - 25" GB 3/8LP bar, rim sprocket, and two Panther lo pro chains. https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/snhds25-50wr-kit-2563cm-gb-lo-pro-milling-bar-kit/ It's more expensive than regular 3/8 but it's kind of niche stuff not produced on nearly the same scale is why. And if you only have one saw you want to do everything with, it's a small hassle switching out sprockets every time you want to go back to standard 3/8 gear. The other approach if you're not doing this a lot is just get 3/8LP ripping chain made up in the right links for your 24" bar - I could probably make up some to sell you - and run it on your regular 3/8 .050 sprocket and bar. It's the same link spacing, just different shaped drive links so it steadily wears out nose sprockets on a bar and drive sprockets by the slight mismatch. But takes awhile, and if it's just for the odd cant here and there, you could likely get away with it without much wear. You would not believe how fast you'll cut cants with it, that's the neat things about 3/8LP on a 60cc saw.
Thanks for your in depth reply. My current 20" and 24" bars are 0.063 just because that's what the saw came with. I have a Stihl 046 that I'm going to fix and mainly use for noodling and mini-milling. I was going to buy a 0.050 28" bar for that and use it on the mill without switching B&C. So Lo-Pro is out for now unless I really get into milling.
 
Isn't Timbor basically just boric acid?

I do have good news, after I saw the bore holes in that one top slab the other day, I sprayed both stack of pecan again with a heavy warm borax solution. It was a challenge trying to spray them stacked, I was glad I used 1.5 inch stickers for the pecan lol.

Just got done inspecting all of my stacks looking for any new bore holes today, I found only two tiny sawdust piles this time, in the same top slab as before. None anywhere else. I think they were just attacking that one slab, it was the very outside piece (first slab off the log). I can tell I have a good coating of borax on now, my flashlight reflects off the crystals that it left behind.

Also, any idea what those little buggers might be? They're really tiny, slightly bigger than a little ant.
Would buy some Timbor and spray them all. https://www.amazon.com/Tim-bor-Professional-Insecticide-Fungicide-1-5/dp/B09M2GHBBC Mostly I've found they've favored edge slabs, I've never had much problem with them trying to invade everything even when edge slabs have been riddled with them.
 
Isn't Timbor basically just boric acid?

I do have good news, after I saw the bore holes in that one top slab the other day, I sprayed both stack of pecan again with a heavy warm borax solution. It was a challenge trying to spray them stacked, I was glad I used 1.5 inch stickers for the pecan lol.

Just got done inspecting all of my stacks looking for any new bore holes today, I found only two tiny sawdust piles this time, in the same top slab as before. None anywhere else. I think they were just attacking that one slab, it was the very outside piece (first slab off the log). I can tell I have a good coating of borax on now, my flashlight reflects off the crystals that it left behind.

Also, any idea what those little buggers might be? They're really tiny, slightly bigger than a little ant.
Powder Post Beetles. They love Hickory, Pecan and Ash. Will attach sapwood on other species like Honey Locust and Walnut.
 
Powder Post Beetles. They love Hickory, Pecan and Ash. Will attach sapwood on other species like Honey Locust and Walnut.
Gotcha, I figured it was probably them. Reading about them, I thought they were a little bigger than that but they look the same. Maybe they just emerged from something else I brought home. Who knows. I think (hope) it's under control now lol
 
Actually I didn't even take good care of those cookies I don't think, though I did leave it as a 10" thick round for a long time before I resawed it in half, so that might have limited the cracking a little. Can't remember if I sealed it initially. It had a few pretty good size cracks, but I did gold epoxy on one cookie and black on the other.
So what thickness is good for cookies? The ones I cut ranged from 36" x 22" to 28" x 25" and I cut them 12/4. Could I go thinner?

I also theorize that cookies cut out of where the main trunk branches off into two trunks (like the pic) will be less prone to cracking than your typical round cookies. I feel like the connecting wood in the middle might help the outside rounds resist cracking some? I might be completely wrong, IDK!
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