What Makes A Chainsaw Chain Aggressive?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The low-kickback bumpers do not prevent the cutters from biting into the wood, they reduce the chance of digging in too deeply, or of snagging another object.

They were originally designed to ‘full in’ The spaces between cutters, when cutting very small diameter branches. The reduced kickback feature was an unintended benefit.

They do reduce the efficiency of bore / plunge cutting, but it can be done.

Philbert
I should have read it more carefully.
 
You guys are talking to an AI bot. It’s learning from your posts.
It’s kinda scary and interesting all at the same time.
So if the OP is a bot, & given the posts being made are clearly aimed at educating people (& said "aim" is a average at best)... can we get an AS representative to look into it as this would reflect pretty badly on the site, especially as the OP is a "sponsor"
 
The first thing to be clear about is what is meant by "Aggressive".
My meaning is the maximum depth cutters penetrate into the wood and pull out a decent size chip - not powder.
Sharpness of cutter is only one parameter
The others factors are the top plate cutting angle and the depth of the rakers.

Cutter edges can be as sharp as razors but if the top plate filing angle is too steep and the raker depths are too shallow then the chain simply won't cut very efficiently.

Once the top plate cutting angle is optimised for longevity/penetration (too much hook will penetrate more, but go blunt quicker) the ultimate arbiters of chain aggressivity are then down to raker depthss. High rakers will make loads of dust and cut slowly. Lowering rakers should make more chips up to a point when rakers that a far too low will stall the saw.

The critical parameter is the raker angle, this should be such to suit the powerhead/wood type and size/bar length/chain cutter sequence etc

If you want more info on this maybe check out this post.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/cs-milling-101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-6#post-4107285
I take my rakers down to a certian height depending on what type of wood im cutting. I usually have sodtwood chains ,and hardwood chains. But obviously as you sharpen a chain and the tooth height lowers you have to take the rakers down to compensate. I want my saw to do the work,but dont want to overwork my saw. I do like those big curlies coming out of the back. Lol. My two cents
 
Yeah is just getting you guy's to proofread is all then adding any corrections new information so it sounds like they know what they are talking about on their online store selling Chinese aftermarket chainsaw parts.
Nailed it. You cheap Charlie you no pay we no give info!
 
On a square grind, side plate can aggressify (I made that word up) a chain. Put a few degrees more angle on the side plate & you will definitely notice it. Same principle with round files, just not as easy to manipulate.
Some people like low drags. Some people like higher drags. Some side plate angle & an 8 pin sprocket make for a nice smooth chain that can make the finest of adjustments without being grabby. If you do prefer lower drags, make sure your chain is tight, that helps a lot.
 
On a square grind, side plate can aggressify (I made that word up) a chain. Put a few degrees more angle on the side plate & you will definitely notice it. Same principle with round files, just not as easy to manipulate.
Some people like low drags. Some people like higher drags. Some side plate angle & an 8 pin sprocket make for a nice smooth chain that can make the finest of adjustments without being grabby. If you do prefer lower drags, make sure your chain is tight, that helps a lot.
Some people get higher, and become drags.....
 
How come only every other cutter in the picture is sharpened correctly? I know it's the reverse side of the cutter, but it still shouldn't look like that.

View attachment 1010861

The answer is simple: the image wasn't drawn by a chain expert, it wasn't extracted from a real photo of a real chain, and the OP didn't notice the difference.

If you look real close, there are other discrepancies, none of which are important to the purpose of the illustration: to show how the cutters are arranged on different types of chain.
 
Back
Top