what should my air temp be coming out of register

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zsteinmetz

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what are you guys with owb running for air temp coming out of your registers? I have a 16x18 inch heat exchanger in my forced air furnace and it seems like the fan is running alot. My owb turns on at 150 and of at 170. Is this normal or should i crank it up a little? I went to a register about half way between the closest and the furthest one away from the furnace and was reading about 90 degrees. What are some of your guys temps?
 
I run my owb on at 175 off at 185. I had forced air at my old house and with the owb at that setting I got alot of convection coming out of the vents. On sunny calm days the blower would only go on a few times during the day.
 
i would crank it up to 180 and bring the bottom up to 165. Do you have a blower or is it natural draft?
 
its a wood doctor and it has a blower. its on the factory setting right now.
 
Mine set at 160 on and 180 off 18x20 heat exchanger 100,000 btu furnace.Air coming out of ducts seems plenty warm.
 
I used to have my boiler set at 175, which was fine for my hot air exchanger. I have it set at 195 now since I've hooked my Moms house up, She has hot water baseboard that likes the high temps. I've never really checked to see what temp is coming out of my registers, But since the stove has been set to 195 it'll make you jump if you step on a register barefoot!:blob2: :laugh:
 
Hey guys, new to this site. Great info.

Here is what I have been running.

Last heating season Outdoor Boiler set to 170' to 190'F
Temps coming out of heat register was around 118-122' F. House heated up in a hurry.

This season decided to change the Outdoor Boiler to run between 160' to 180'F.
Temps coming out of register is around 105'-115'F. Forced air furnace fan is on a little longer, but house is still comfortable.

I can look at the temp gauge at my register and determine if I need to add wood, when the temp coming out is around 95' F, I go out and load the Boiler.

When I don't run the Outdoor Boiler and run the Natural Gas Furnace,
temps coming out of register are much hotter, 125'-130', house heats up in a hurry with these temps.

Woodboiler

I also sell Wood Doctor Furnaces in Michigan.
www.michiganwooddoctor.com
 
a wood doctor sweet. I called the WD rep in canada and he said turn the aquastat to 186 on the main dial and twelve on the white one behind the cover. This raised my temp comin out or the register to 95 degrees. whats yours set at? Do you think it would be a problem if i raised it a little more? Did you use more wood when you turned it up?
 
What is your temp gauge reading at the boiler? These need to cycle in between 150-190, depending on your settings and your differential setting on the back of the aquastat, which is the little white dial.

I really don't monitor the wood usage that closely to see if the temp lowering made a difference. One would think it does? Maybe.

Woodboiler
www.michiganwooddoctor.com
 
Yes it is a good idea to lower your temps in milder weather. Large buildings with boiler systems do this all the time, it is called outdoor temp. reset, and it saves quite a bit of energy in addition to preventing spaces from overheating when it's mild out. It would be best to do it in three stages, a really low setting for milder weather, an intermediate setting for when it is in the 20's and hot for when it gets really cold.

Personally I find it a pain to burn wood when it is mild. If I had my choice I would use an air-to-air heat pump when it is above 40 and save the wood for when it gets colder.
 
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if you getting anything less than a 135 to 145 from you registers your water to air coil is too small....a 16"x18" 3 row(with 8 gpm) coil only puts out about 68,000 btu's...and yes dealers say they put out 139,000 btu's..BS

i talked to one of the builders of 80% of the water to air coils for owb's

http://www.boisdarccoils.com

and they agreed with me that the dealers are showing the wrong btu's for the coil seize

if you have 180 water temp coming in(with the right seize coil) and 70 degree air moving across it you should have a 70 degree gain in temp=140

i have a 20"x 24" 4 row with 1200 cfm running across it @ 10 gpm, 180 IW and i get 145 out the registers.

if you have to small of a coil your temp drop of your water from inlet to outlet it will be to high(15 to 20 degrees is good over 30 bad) and if will suck the life out of your boiler and you will be cold....but you'll get warmed up throwin' wood in it ever 4 hours though...
 
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Most of my problem is probably because i have the hx in the return duct. i didnt have the space to fit it in above the a coil. I did crank up the boiler to 170-190 and that helps quite a bit. This summer i have to explore some other ways to get the hx in the right place. The house is usually 70 but the furnace is on quite often when its 0 degrees out. I thought about finding a used shorter furnace. Any ideas?
 
Most of my problem is probably because i have the hx in the return duct. i didnt have the space to fit it in above the a coil. I did crank up the boiler to 170-190 and that helps quite a bit. This summer i have to explore some other ways to get the hx in the right place. The house is usually 70 but the furnace is on quite often when its 0 degrees out. I thought about finding a used shorter furnace. Any ideas?

in the return air is fine...have put lots of them in return air side...thats not the trouble....you need a bigger coil...just make sure it's sealed so no air is coming round the coil and your filter is up stream of it....see if a 20"x 20" or a 20"x 24" will fit in you duct....then sell you 16"x18" on flebay...
 
I do have a register on the bottom of my return air after the hx that I have open just to keep the fan motor a little cooler. With it shut it does get warmer but i dont want to smoke my fan motor. Would it be harder on the motor if i would shut this?
 

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