What to look for in a used saw to avoid trouble?

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webbmeister

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Hello Everyone:

First, I'd like to express my gratitude for the wealth of information on this site. Before coming here, I had little idea of what kind of saw to look for or what brands are good bets. It was nice to shop with all this information at hand!

I just posted the winning bid for a two-year-old John Deere CS62. The price seems low ($225) for a saw of this quality and (by the looks of the pictures and description) condition. Regardless, I'm driving up to Wisconsin tomorrow to look it over before paying for it and picking it up. Would anyone here mind giving me some much-needed advice about what I should look for? Tell-tale signs that the saw has had a hard life and is likely to need expensive repairs or will not run very well through the rest of its life?

Thanks for any wisdom anyone is willing to share.

Jim
 
I look at the outward appearance first. Is it scruffed up? Has it been physically abused? Look at the smudge/smoke marks near the exhaust? Are there indications it has been run 'hot' for an extended period of time? Lift up the saw, grab ahold of the rope handle and let go of the saw; does it hang there or rapidly sink towards the ground. This is in essence a compression check. If it sinks rapidly towards the ground, I'd want to remove the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port to see how it has worn. An obvious thing will be to start it, see if it runs and accellerates smoothly, then idles nicely. These are the obvious things I check for on a used saw.
 
If you do the compression dangle test, make sure you do it with the saw switched off (and for good measure, the chain brake on). No sense in cutting your leg off on day one.

If you've bought the saw at an auction (like ebay), unless the description was very wrong, then you've committed to taking the saw. It's best to feel good about your purchase, so don't be put off by minor issues.

Generally, saws are like cars. If it starts and runs well, it's probably OK.

Have fun!
 
West Texas said:
I look at the outward appearance first. Is it scruffed up? Has it been physically abused? Look at the smudge/smoke marks near the exhaust? Are there indications it has been run 'hot' for an extended period of time? Lift up the saw, grab ahold of the rope handle and let go of the saw; does it hang there or rapidly sink towards the ground. This is in essence a compression check. If it sinks rapidly towards the ground, I'd want to remove the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port to see how it has worn. An obvious thing will be to start it, see if it runs and accellerates smoothly, then idles nicely. These are the obvious things I check for on a used saw.
Click to expand...
That sums it up nicely.
 
Also... (general advice here, statement of the bleeding obvious)

*** DON'T PAY TOO MUCH ***

I just saw an Echo 660EVL (old mid-size saw from the '80s) sell on ebay for AUS$502.00 (US$372.00)
 
I think it has been:deadhorse: west texas gave you about all you need to know nice post by the way and how is the ehp361? A couple other thoughts, when you talk to the guy you will be able to tell what his nature is and in turn how he takes care of stuff. Lets say the outside was beat. Well maybe it won't win the congeniality contest but if it starts right up and eats wood like a monster than things are probably in decent shape. I guess how it runs is what I would consider most.

Buck
 
Just guessing here, but I'd say that the price of a new CS62 should be about $400. If I'm right, then you are saving $175.

So, how long of a drive is it, and is there any warranty with the saw? And you aren't sure what to look for?
 
spike60 said:
Just guessing here, but I'd say that the price of a new CS62 should be about $400. If I'm right, then you are saving $175.

So, how long of a drive is it, and is there any warranty with the saw? And you aren't sure what to look for?
Click to expand...
good price if it's in good condition, well built, part's not hard to get. new in my area $525 to $550 + tax.
 
What to look for ...

spike60 said:
Just guessing here, but I'd say that the price of a new CS62 should be about $400. If I'm right, then you are saving $175.

So, how long of a drive is it, and is there any warranty with the saw? And you aren't sure what to look for?
Click to expand...

Hi Spike:

Dealer has this one for $539, Chainsaws4u is $475. It's a two hour drive. The saw is just over two years old, so there is no warranty from the manufacturer, and I'm buying it from a private party who has agreed that the deal is contingent upon inspection. So, here are my reasons for posting my question:

  1. The saw is less than half the discounted new price. If it is in great shape, that makes it a great deal. IF there are problems, I imagine I could easily spend what I saved to repair it, and then have a $500 used saw on my hands.
  2. I am not a pro, or even close. So I don't know how to tell is a saw is in good shape. Granddad got it in to me a long time ago to ask when I don't know - and ask somebody who knows. You guys know!
Bottom line, this is a gamble, and the information (especially from West Texas) helps me hedge the bet.

Thanks for your post, Spike!

Jim
 
Thanks!

West Texas said:
I look at the outward appearance first. Is it scruffed up? Has it been physically abused? Look at the smudge/smoke marks near the exhaust? Are there indications it has been run 'hot' for an extended period of time? Lift up the saw, grab ahold of the rope handle and let go of the saw; does it hang there or rapidly sink towards the ground. This is in essence a compression check. If it sinks rapidly towards the ground, I'd want to remove the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port to see how it has worn. An obvious thing will be to start it, see if it runs and accellerates smoothly, then idles nicely. These are the obvious things I check for on a used saw.
Click to expand...

West Texas - this is like having the answers to the final exam written on my arm. Thanks a ton!

Jim
 
Legs cut off ...

sawn_penn said:
If you do the compression dangle test, make sure you do it with the saw switched off (and for good measure, the chain brake on). No sense in cutting your leg off on day one.

If you've bought the saw at an auction (like ebay), unless the description was very wrong, then you've committed to taking the saw. It's best to feel good about your purchase, so don't be put off by minor issues.

Generally, saws are like cars. If it starts and runs well, it's probably OK.

Have fun!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Sawn:

No matter how powerful the saw, it is no match for my mother-in-law. She has already cut my legs out from under me more than once - so ther's not much left for the saw to get at. Seriously, though, I will certainly make sure the switch is off and the brake is on before doing West Texas's compression test. Thanks for the heads-up.

Jim
 
The pictures of the saw on eBay make it look like its almost a brand new saw. Shouldn't be any problems on this one. If it starts, accellerates smoothly and idles then I'd pay the guy and run. :)
 
You seem to have got a better price than the new one listed on the same page, $519 with a 20" bar!
 
corosion on stihl case

Jim[/QUOTE]

Would anyone here mind giving me some much-needed advice about what I should look for? Tell-tale signs that the saw has had a hard life and is likely to need expensive repairs or will not run very well through the rest of its life?


Hi Jim.
What nobody told me and I found out the hard way is that if saws are left in a damp shed the case can corode through. One I bought on Ebay eats trees easily, but there was a hole through to the oil resevoir and the screw holes for the anti vibration mounts were all but shot. I have made a good repair using woven glass fibre tape and resin which is OK for occasional use but wouldn't last long in the back of a pickup.

The really vital thing to know about this is that the cases are magnesium based so cannot easily be welded - don't ask! :dizzy:

Hope you find a good one (or more )

Big feller.
 

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